Doug Gaut

Fire, Unless trinity has changed the spur gear adapter, save your money. There were a few of us that bought them when the XXX-S first came out and were very disappointed. None of the ones that I have seen are round! The gear area is fine but where the belt runs was not. The belt would be loose then bind (oblong) which would stretch it out real quick. We could tighten it up so that it would not skip but it was just too tight to work properly. Luckily my local hobbyshop owner took care of the problem for me.

Cain, I ran the older version one Chameleon last nite on a pretty large track with gearing 23/90 and it made run time plus with a 2000 pack. How tight is your belt, how long ago was the motor trued up? Chameleons seem to be hard on the comm with the laydown brushes and the high timing. We are getting about 3 runs before they need to be trued up. We do run the 3000s but with the new GP3300s coming out I would wait a couple more weeks for them. They are much cheaper for top quality cells so I would think that stick packs would be cheaper too. If all you are racing is mod or spec mod I would think you would enjoy the added run time of the nimh cells and not notice the voltage difference.

Doug

Cain

iTrader: (294)

my motor hasn't been trued in about two race days. ( I practice about two packs and run 2 heats and the main). So i probably need to have that done. It was weird because i dumped and a guy running a street spec motor and street spec batteries was keeping right up with me. How loose should the belt be set?

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

I get... guessing.. 5-6 mm of play in the belt personally. The tensioner is tightened right in the middle of the slot.

I try to rebuild my gm3 once a week, right before the main. It's good for the next race practice and Qual.

-Troy

Cain

iTrader: (294)

so assuming everything else equal, the tighter the tension on the belt the less run time?

Fire

yes, because the tight belt setting creats drag
also if you tightened the diff cover too much the diffs maybe binded and also creat drag


i am going to take the spur apart and do it again
see if it helps

Evil_S10

I found another thing to look at today while doing some check-ups on my xxx-s. I pulled out the rear differential to find out that the carbide ball were melted into the plastic. So after it took me a while to get them out, I put them in the optional 41t gear that comes with the kit. Has anyone else used this before?

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

big difference - 100 mah is like 8 seconds so about 55-60 more seconds of runtime?

boykster

I've given up on finding a "true" 64p losi gear...my MF spur adapter doesn't have the issues discussed above, and while proudwinner is correct - they still work, even out of round - the margin for error in meshing the gears decreases when the gears aren't true....also, the tesion pulley rubs on mine (the spur is that out of round....annoying!).

General handling question....

My xxx-s is seems to have pretty good balance (not pushing or understeering overall) but it seems "lazy" in the turns...ie good turn in, but the tail takes it's time getting around.

I don't have my full setup handy, but I'm running on an asphalt track, 50w f/r, blue front, silver rear, takeoff cs27s all around. Front and rear shocks are more vertical than inclined, 2deg caster in front, 1.5 camber all around, 5.5 F, 6.0 R rideheight...

Any suggestions for making the car more lively through the turn?

Cheers,

Rich

Fire

try less droop in the rear~

boykster

thx, I'll give that a try....I don't know offhand how much droop I have set right now...what is a good starting droop value? (I know I know, it varies...) 1.5mm? 2mm?

Cheers,

Rich

Cain

iTrader: (294)

if I had too much slack in the belt, will that cause me to have less run time?

Fire

boykster~ you can start with your current droop setting and reduce it little bit at a time until you find the right one.

Cain~ i think a loose belt without slipping will allow more run time than a tight belt~~

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

I would try one of two things......
1) put blue springs on the rear of the car to stiffen the rear a little because maybe the rear is a hair bit too planted and that's why it is giving you the lazy feeling

2) lower your ride height some. Running it that high is going to create a little body roll which could also make the car feel lazy and not change directions as quickly as you may like.

I would actually like to see your complete set up (if you don't mind) and maybe we can get your problem solved. So if you can please post it on here........that way you can get help from everyone of the thread. These are a great group of guys on here and if I can't be of any help, you can bet that they can.


TSR6- I ran a green can for the first time yesterday and all I can say is WOW. That can really rocks if it's geared properly. Plenty of punch and the mid range you so great that everyone thought that I had plenty of top end. I had it geared at 128/34 No one could touch the motor last night. Traffic didn't help out last night but the car was killer. Maybe next weekend we'll go with a oneway. I'm using a friends car until I can get all of my stuff replaced.

LouisB

I did a little testing with my Core Touring 12x1 high speed, it has great acceleration with the stock gearing (Pit wets squealing) and as the name suggests very good top speed. It's also very quiet and stays cool.
With this much motor I wonder if my packs are good enough to last the whole race?

Addict sa RC

LouisB, you mean geared it like a stock motor? What pinion were you using?