setting droop correctly?
#1
setting droop correctly?
When you set droop up on your nitro touring car at what ride height and what wheel size do you use to set droop. I was just wondering cause each seems to be a function of the other. As the wheel size decreases (foam wear) you must increase the ride height and as this happens( if you are leaving droop the same )then your droop is decreasing. I am asking cause usually through a day of racing I do not have time to adjust my droop and by the end of the day the droop is close to zero on one end of the car.
#3
Re: setting droop correctly?
Originally posted by sbmon
When you set droop up on your nitro touring car at what ride height and what wheel size do you use to set droop. I was just wondering cause each seems to be a function of the other.
When you set droop up on your nitro touring car at what ride height and what wheel size do you use to set droop. I was just wondering cause each seems to be a function of the other.
Droop is set relative to the ride height (wheel size). So you can use any wheel size (or ride height) to set your droop. Droop is the amount of chassis uptravel before the wheels start to leave the ground.
Originally posted by sbmon
I am asking cause usually through a day of racing I do not have time to adjust my droop and by the end of the day the droop is close to zero on one end of the car.
I am asking cause usually through a day of racing I do not have time to adjust my droop and by the end of the day the droop is close to zero on one end of the car.
On the trackside, this is what I usually do when I do not change the tires. On my car, I found that if I turn the droop screw half a round clockwise, I increase the droop by approx 1 mm. So if I find that I have to increase my ride height by 2 mm to get to the original ride height, I screw in the droop screw clockwise 1 full turn. Do this equally on both left and right sides of the arms. This is important to get both left and right droop equal especially if you're running a one way front. Of course this is not too accurate but it sure works well for me as this saves me a lot of time on the track side.
On another note, if you really want to do it correctly, you also need to change your wheel camber when you change the ride height of the car by way of turning down the shocks. But most of the time, the change in camber as a result in the changes made to the ride height at the track side is negligible. Again depending on your car, you could device a method similar to the above to change your wheel camber with just a few turns of the wrench here and there. Hope that helps.
#4
thanks ID
that does help , camber wise i usually just set it and make small adjustments through the day depending on tire wear pattern
that does help , camber wise i usually just set it and make small adjustments through the day depending on tire wear pattern
#5
don't forget to check the toe-in after everything else is done.
Re-adjusting the ride height and then camber will affect the toe-in so it should always be your last adjustment.
Re-adjusting the ride height and then camber will affect the toe-in so it should always be your last adjustment.
#6
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I have a question, i know it sounds dumb. How important is it to setup your droop correctly? Is it really critical to car handling? is there anyother way to setup your droop without reset everything after running few tanks? I try to learn the principal of it, and it's still confuse me somehow
#7
Originally posted by front1wayFreak
I have a question, i know it sounds dumb. How important is it to setup your droop correctly? Is it really critical to car handling? is there anyother way to setup your droop without reset everything after running few tanks? I try to learn the principal of it, and it's still confuse me somehow
I have a question, i know it sounds dumb. How important is it to setup your droop correctly? Is it really critical to car handling? is there anyother way to setup your droop without reset everything after running few tanks? I try to learn the principal of it, and it's still confuse me somehow
As D says, when you change the ride height to accommodate tyre wear, you need to restore the droop setting. If there was a way around it, we'd all be doing it.
If you have enough tyres of similar diameter and rotate them, you don't have to do many adjustments. It doesn't take long once you get used to the fact that 1/2 a turn on the droop screw equates to "X" amount of droop. Then just lift the chassis to ensure there's no tweak.
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
may I ask what is a pretty standart droop setting?
I am currently running zero in the front and -1 no the rear. but I hear/read of people who run +5 +6 ..?
do you typically want to stay in the possitivie number?
having more of a positive droop will make the suspension stiffer?
please help me understand this adjustment.
I am currently running zero in the front and -1 no the rear. but I hear/read of people who run +5 +6 ..?
do you typically want to stay in the possitivie number?
having more of a positive droop will make the suspension stiffer?
please help me understand this adjustment.
#11
I run about 2-3 mm's of droop. I set ride height, and check droop after every run, a 1/2 turn out on the droop screws after setting ride height usually gets it in the ballpark.
#12
Tech Fanatic
pls suggest a drp height for mtx3
thanks
big track...
thanks
big track...
#13
Registered User
In most cases after setting droop and ride height you want the a-arms on the car level or tilted up (- droop). I run my NTC3 in the -3 to -5 range front and rear.
#15
Registered User
Remember more droop in rear more taction less droop, less traction. Same for front if you want more or less steering, and of course lighter or heavier shock oil and springs.