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Old 12-18-2003, 07:23 PM   #1
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Default setting droop correctly?

When you set droop up on your nitro touring car at what ride height and what wheel size do you use to set droop. I was just wondering cause each seems to be a function of the other. As the wheel size decreases (foam wear) you must increase the ride height and as this happens( if you are leaving droop the same )then your droop is decreasing. I am asking cause usually through a day of racing I do not have time to adjust my droop and by the end of the day the droop is close to zero on one end of the car.
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Old 12-18-2003, 07:35 PM   #2
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keep switching tires out so you are running the same diameter at the start would be easier than changing the droop every time.
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Old 12-18-2003, 08:12 PM   #3
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Default Re: setting droop correctly?

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
When you set droop up on your nitro touring car at what ride height and what wheel size do you use to set droop. I was just wondering cause each seems to be a function of the other.
As you already know, wheel size affects ride height. Ride height then affects droop.

Droop is set relative to the ride height (wheel size). So you can use any wheel size (or ride height) to set your droop. Droop is the amount of chassis uptravel before the wheels start to leave the ground.


Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
I am asking cause usually through a day of racing I do not have time to adjust my droop and by the end of the day the droop is close to zero on one end of the car.
Just set the amount of droop equal to the "loss" of ride height. Say for example if you start of with a droop of +5 and with a ride height of 6 mm with a set of tires and end up with a ride height of 4 after running a few tanks, turn down and reset your shocks to increase the ride height back from 4 to 6 mm and INCREASE droop by the same amount i.e. +5 to +3.

On the trackside, this is what I usually do when I do not change the tires. On my car, I found that if I turn the droop screw half a round clockwise, I increase the droop by approx 1 mm. So if I find that I have to increase my ride height by 2 mm to get to the original ride height, I screw in the droop screw clockwise 1 full turn. Do this equally on both left and right sides of the arms. This is important to get both left and right droop equal especially if you're running a one way front. Of course this is not too accurate but it sure works well for me as this saves me a lot of time on the track side.

On another note, if you really want to do it correctly, you also need to change your wheel camber when you change the ride height of the car by way of turning down the shocks. But most of the time, the change in camber as a result in the changes made to the ride height at the track side is negligible. Again depending on your car, you could device a method similar to the above to change your wheel camber with just a few turns of the wrench here and there. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-18-2003, 08:53 PM   #4
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thanks ID
that does help , camber wise i usually just set it and make small adjustments through the day depending on tire wear pattern
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Old 12-19-2003, 01:49 AM   #5
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don't forget to check the toe-in after everything else is done.

Re-adjusting the ride height and then camber will affect the toe-in so it should always be your last adjustment.
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Old 12-19-2003, 03:37 AM   #6
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I have a question, i know it sounds dumb. How important is it to setup your droop correctly? Is it really critical to car handling? is there anyother way to setup your droop without reset everything after running few tanks? I try to learn the principal of it, and it's still confuse me somehow
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Old 12-19-2003, 06:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by front1wayFreak
I have a question, i know it sounds dumb. How important is it to setup your droop correctly? Is it really critical to car handling? is there anyother way to setup your droop without reset everything after running few tanks? I try to learn the principal of it, and it's still confuse me somehow
Yes, it's important - droop has a significant effect on weight transfer.
As D says, when you change the ride height to accommodate tyre wear, you need to restore the droop setting. If there was a way around it, we'd all be doing it.
If you have enough tyres of similar diameter and rotate them, you don't have to do many adjustments. It doesn't take long once you get used to the fact that 1/2 a turn on the droop screw equates to "X" amount of droop. Then just lift the chassis to ensure there's no tweak.
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Old 12-19-2003, 08:14 AM   #8
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may I ask what is a pretty standart droop setting?

I am currently running zero in the front and -1 no the rear. but I hear/read of people who run +5 +6 ..?


do you typically want to stay in the possitivie number?

having more of a positive droop will make the suspension stiffer?

please help me understand this adjustment.
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Old 12-19-2003, 09:46 AM   #9
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What car are you running?
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Old 12-19-2003, 09:50 AM   #10
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TG10R currently - but in a month I will also have a 710 ready
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Old 12-20-2003, 12:17 AM   #11
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I run about 2-3 mm's of droop. I set ride height, and check droop after every run, a 1/2 turn out on the droop screws after setting ride height usually gets it in the ballpark.
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Old 12-20-2003, 12:24 AM   #12
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pls suggest a drp height for mtx3

thanks

big track...
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Old 12-20-2003, 05:50 AM   #13
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In most cases after setting droop and ride height you want the a-arms on the car level or tilted up (- droop). I run my NTC3 in the -3 to -5 range front and rear.
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Old 12-20-2003, 09:50 AM   #14
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thanks
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Old 12-20-2003, 04:46 PM   #15
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Remember more droop in rear more taction less droop, less traction. Same for front if you want more or less steering, and of course lighter or heavier shock oil and springs.
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