satoch

10,000 will more evenly distribute the power to the front and the rear diffs. The rear will become over powered and kick out the rear end while exiting corners. It will launch well straight though.

Go ahead and give it a try. Keep in mind there's a reason no one does it however.

casino57

if you guys are looking for consistancy.....forget about it. losi is one of the most inconsistant cars i've ever driven. spent alot of time with the car. I found that 3-5-2 is the best for ease of driving the car. sorry but i changed cars.......went back to my 7.5.....what a difference

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

IMO the driver determines consistency.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

SOOO very true....If ya aint got the Finger for it....It dont matter What u put in the diffs....Ur gonna be All over the place with a LEAD finger.

tex1

iTrader: (4)

Yep... That's me. No prob Domit. I saw you working on that thing and said oh crap! Thought you could use the help to make your race.
Glad you did.

I'm with you guys on this but there is a little thing about what this guy is saying. A Mach 427 with all alum shoes and if he's running the stock pipe, will blow the tires off the car! That is an amazingly strong motor for a buggy. Sounds like your rear end is staying stuck to get the front end to unload as well. Might try a setup in your clutch that will not spin the tires soo much and restrict the motor as well.

Going up in the center diff oil will make the car harder to drive. You might give it a try.

Inconsistant?? That is in the hand of the driver. The Losi is easy to drive fast. That means it is easy to overdrive and go slow. That is what I like about the car. Relax and haul a$$!
TEX

SteveJa

iTrader: (17)

does craddock make brakes for the 8ight ? I am looking for the anti-lock star shaped ones...


thanks

RETRO RC

hey Air,

like I said we're a few hours ahead

the track was awesome and the new surface held up really well

I had a crap couple of days in practice and qualifing with tuning issues on both engines only making the quarters for both truggy and buggy

in the truggy quarter had the engine flame out on the startline and started a lap down on the feild but man it was hooked up came back from dead last to make 6th and if I had 5 more minutes would have bumped up

In the buggy started my 1/4 from 5th and managed to get a good clean run to take 1st and bump up

in the semi I got an average start but slowly worked my way up to 5th and not far off 4th which was good enough to bump up to the main in 8th on the grid

got off to a bad start in the final ending up well back after the fist lap and never really recovered (try to catch up to hard = mistakes big time) got back upto 6th and was fighting to hold it for probably the last 25min of the 1 hour final

so in the end I had a pretty good end to the nationals with a top ten finish

Adrian

heres a link for pics
http://www.hrccc.co.nz/2007_nationals_pictures.php

and a link for results
http://www.hrccc.co.nz/2007_nationals_results.php

RETRO RC

have you seen these I heard good things about them so far
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Categories

tommyj

8ight-t Setup
12/15/2007
Track: Revelation Raceway
Finished first last night at Rev - Here is the link... (Truggy amateur/expert)
Link: http://www.revrace.com/RaceResultsDi...07.txt&ID=2615

FRONT
Toe: 2 degrees out
Front kick-up: stock (0 inserts)
Ride Height: 36mm
Camber: -1
Caster: Stock 20 degrees
Sway Bar: 2.3mm (Light)
Shock Piston/Oil: 55 / 37.5wt (40wt if hot)
Spring: White
Overall Shock Length: 98.5mm
Steering Ackerman: Stock-Long
Bump Steer: Down
Camber Link: #2
Shock mount location: #3 / middle
Diff Fluid: 7000 Team Losi

Other
Receiver Battery type: NiMh
Center Diff Fluid: 10,000 Team Losi
Chassis Braces/stiffener: King Headz 7075 Aluminum
Lunsford Titanium caster block pins
Alum R Gearbox Bearing Inserts
Bearings: Avid Rubber Sealed
Losi Aluminum Quick Change Engine Mount Set
Alum Steering servo horn and alum servo saver horn.


Rear
Toe: 2 degrees
Anti-Squat: 3 degrees
Ride Height: 38mm
Camber: -2 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: All the Way Back
Sway Bar: 2.5mm (blk)
Shock Piston/Oil: 56 / 27.5wt (30-32.5 wt. if hot)
Spring: Purple
Ride Height: 112mm
Camber Link: #4 / A
Shock mount location: #3 / middle
Diff Fluid: 3000 Team Losi

Engine/Clutch/Fuel:
Engine: O.S. Max .28XZ
Carb Restrictor: 8mm
Fuel: Werks 30%
Plug: O.S. P3 Hot
Clearance: .023
Pipe/Header: Jammin JP-3
Gearing: 13/48
Clutch shoes: 4 Fioroni Long Wear Alum
Clutch Springs: 4 Gold springs

Tires: Team Panther Gator 38mm
Wheels: Team Losi Stock
Foam: Team Panther White Non-Molded Trimmed 3/8in. at 45 deg. Angle on inside
Body: JConcepts

Geo Y-Rock

iTrader: (2)

I agree. So many people want the car to be so easy to drive. If you think about the term "easy" to drive. The word should be replaced with "slow". Going slow is easy. I've driven other brands and some were easy to drive. They were also SLOW. Make the car push like a dump truck. That's real easy to drive. Losi 8s have alot of steering which equates to a lot of corner speed adding up to fast lap times. Drive the thing. Feather the throttle a little. Be patient and nock out some laps. The car won't drive itself.

zigzag84

Congratulation

Have you a pic of track and you 8T ?

zigzag84

Nobody has in front diff , a BBf Tactyl diff ?

Stewart Fan

iTrader: (18)

Question are there any parts that are diffrent from the race roller to the kit?


I have the kit that I run now, but I can get smokin deals on the race roller right now N.I.B. Looks as though Horizon gave all the shops huge Christmas deals on the 8 and 8T race rollers, like $100 cheaper than the usualy cost. Anyway my delima is that I dont want one if it has all the craptastic parts that come on the RTR.

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

I posted this in his other thread, but, here goes:

This is counter-intuitive... but... going down in center diff fluid will make the car less aggressive. I run 5-5-3 or 5-5-2, depending. That makes the car pretty friendly. I've driven one with 5-7-2, it was a bit edgier and harder to drive, BUT, with a good driver it is probably faster. I would suggest 5-5-3 as a good starting point on the 8ight. Light diff fluid will give it less awd effect, so it DOES hurt the acceleration slightly... but... it tames the car down a bit.


To keep the rod ends from popping off you can put a conical washer (small side toward the rod end) to "capture" them. Easy fix. However, if you are popping rod ends off, you're probably hitting stuff... the next weakest link will then be the thing that lets go... probably still the rod end, but breaking instead of popping off. So... would you rather have to pop rod ends back on, or break them and have to replace them?

As for not clearing the triple... well, it COULD be your ride height is too low, and you're scraping the chassis over the jump... but I would say it is more likely related to the first thing you said. If you are spinning the tires, you aren't accelerating efficiently. Going up to 3 in the rear in diff fluid will help a little, but the biggest difference is learning to roll into the throttle instead of treating it like an on/off switch. I know, because I have that very same problem! Set your ride height to the factory recommendations and it will be good for all but the most extreme tracks.

Also, when you say the car is "drifty," do you mean the steering is too sensitive? Unless you have really quick reactions and a lot of driving experience, be sure you are running the long ackerman plate. Additionally, if you are running the RTR, you should consider a different transmitter. The DX2 (not the DX2.0, the regular DX2) doesn't have exponential. What exponential will do is allow you to slow down the initial part of the steering, without affecting overall turning. The car will be less sensitive on small steering inputs and make it feel more stable, without giving up any turn radius. You could even use exponential on the throttle to slow down the speed at which the throttle opens, as a crutch. I could probably stand to do that myself.

If you are running that huge engine with all aluminum shoes and relatively heavy springs, it's going to be really "snappy" on the low end. Go to lighter clutch springs to make the clutch engage sooner, it will tame it down. If you are running the 13 tooth clutch bell, go up to the 14 tooth. And most of all, tame your throttle finger down. Smooth and gentle, not jerky! (yeah, yeah, I know, I need to take my own advice there... it is much easier to say than it is to do!)

I hope this is helpful. It is interesting that I was afraid of the Losi because of all the comments about how edgy the car is, blah blah blah... it simply isn't true. This car IS very precise, and it WILL lull you into overconfidence because it just does everything so well. It will tempt you to over-drive it... relax and be faster! It is easy to drive, and forgiving if you don't just push it to the point of craziness. It responds instantly to whatever you tell it to do.

Stewart Fan

iTrader: (18)

So no one runs a Race Roller huh?