ZER01

Nitrofan, yes the optional pulleys for the differentials are 41 teeth, you get one extra pulley(41 tooth) with the kit along with two 42 tooth pulleys. If you run both 42 tooth pulleys, the internal gear ratio is 1.826086957, if you run the optional 41 tooth pulley(in the front or rear) with one 42 tooth pulley, the internal gear ratio is reduced to 1.804347826. If you run two 41 tooth pulleys, the internal gear ratio is further reduced to 1.782608696.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

mDawson,

what is the part number for the aluminum hub carriers? That are listed on your site. Who makes them? and were can get a pair?

yodace

iTrader: (8)

front and rear hubs
sorry.

futureal

I am running the Yokomo blue aluminum wheel hubs made for the TC3. I don't recall the part number offhand but they work great on the Losi. I will try and find it.

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

so am i....they are great.....also, trinity makes red ones in the matt francis line....

JitsuGuy

Man, you guys are on top of things! I'm going by the LHS tonight to get my 5x8mm bearings. Also, thanks for the parts list for the full threaded shocks setup!

Jits

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

You can check with CML Distributing in the UK. I dont know of a dealer yet in the US.

Rick Draper

You wont get a USA dealer for CML as it is a UK distributer! I believe all the bits they sell under there fastracks banner are made in the far east although i cud be wrong about this. If you want any bits from CML (CML dont sell direct) you can get them from www.DMS-RACING.com or www.APEXMODELS.com both of which are very helpfull. I use DMS a lot as the guy there races a XXX-s so is very helpfull, and if you go to them tell them Rick Draper sent you!

futureal

OK, here we are on the wheel hex adapters/clamps.

The old style, the ones with the rubber O-rings, are not made any more, you can't get them.

The new style looks and works JUST like the clamps they use on the Yokomo Special. The Yokomo part number is SP-3950C, they should show up in the catalog as "Blue Alum. Clamp Hub for RC-10TC3." They come two per package, so you need two packages for a set, and the MSRP is US$9.50.

They work fine on the XXX-S, I just got a new set of 4 today; the clamp-down ones are much easier to deal with than the O-ringers.

ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

mr losi: are you referring to the aluminum wheel hex adapters? dint know they had MF one's. would you happen to know the part number?

yodace

iTrader: (8)

thanks for all the help and information

smash123

Don't know if ths has been asked here.

What does the SpeedTech front low roll center and/or rear low roll center do?

Are they really necessary for high bit track?

Thanks

futureal

Check out the R/C Tech review of the SpeedTech R/C parts:
http://www.rctech.net/reviews/review...futureal.shtml

An excerpt:

The ability to change between a higher and lower roll center on a touring car is an invaluable tuning option. The big picture (and what most racers will care about) is that lowering a car's roll center allows the chassis to "roll" more through the corners. A higher roll center gives a car less chassis roll, with the other parts of the suspension (e.g. shocks, springs) assuming greater responsibility.

Now which do you want? A good rule is that on a smooth, low-medium bite surface, a lower roll center will increase the car's performance. If the track is bumpy, or has loads of traction, a higher roll center might be in order. Obviously, a driver's preferences come into play, as well as other factors in a car's setup. Changing the roll center can drastically alter a car's performance on a given surface, so if you do decide to change, make sure to allow yourself plenty of time for testing and practice.

smash123

Thanks!

YokGuy

futureal, nice review on the Speedtech stuff. I tried to mod the stock plastic one's myself but could not get it totally flat or the same thickness, I would not recommend this to anyone unless you a real pro like Todd H from Losi. I ordered the Speedtech stuff and it should come in today.