C van der Hagen

No they aren't! Tamiya spurs are 0.4 module, so you need 0.4 module pinions

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Not true, they are 64 pitch

PDR

iTrader: (31)

Agreed - for all intents and purposes, they are completely compatible.

rayrush

iTrader: (3)

ok, so they are 64dp

Can you recommend how many tooth pinion i would need for 17.5 motor and medium size carpet track?

111t or 113t spur?

Also are tamiya pinions the best or another brand?

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

96t

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

I use a 90T spur with a 43T pinion for 17.5 Blinky

Tremor24

iTrader: (3)

Would you recommend this setup for sweep 28s as well? Paragon black can is the only traction compound we can use as well. I've been fighting between oversteer on power and understeer off power on this track.

I'm using:
front:
Tamiya white springs, 35wt associated oil, hole 3 on the tower, 4mm inner camber spacer, BB block, .5mm under rear of front (anti-squat), medium sway

Rear:
Tamiya blue springs, 35wt, hole 3on the tower, 3mm inner camber spacer, xa and e blocks, .5mm under both suspension blocks, thin sway.

So far I have tried (not all at once) lowering the inner camber links 1mm, removing the rear sway bar, and softening to blue/yellow springs amount other things, but have not been able to find a middle ground between being loose, understeer, and still maintaining corner speed. Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone cut the front of the top deck on the V5 with success?

FYI, this is for 4.5 with a spool.
Thanks, I appreciate it.

samsking

iTrader: (16)

Anybody have a good low traction 17.5 asphalt set-up for a 417x? I'm having issues with the car having way too much on power steering, on fast transitioning sections and corner exit the rear of the car would want to over rotate. Running HPI silver springs all around with 450cst front and 400cst rear. 1.5 front camber and 2.0 rear.

Thanks

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

First thing i would do is just to back your front droop screws off a quarter to a half turn and see if that fixes your problem. that will allow more weight to transfer to the rear on power

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

I want to buy a 417v5 and I noticed that a lot of people are still using the old shocks vs the new shocks that come with the TRF417v5 is there a reason for that? One more thing that I have on my list what's the benefit having a raceberry chassis.

ngo8

96 or 97 xenon spur gears work really well, as for gear ratio depends what motor you're using but usually around 4 to 4.2 just test it and play around with it if the motor fades around the 4 minute mark just turn the timing down a little so it will be strong for the full 6 minutes assuming its blinky mode you're running.

Qatmix

The std shocks are meant to be more consistent, they are not needed as the aerated shocks sometime need more maintenance, but they have negative rebound if you need it.

The Raceberry chassis isnt needed in any way.. personally I would keep away and just concentrate on getting the V5 working well.

kavajas

Hi there, a lot of diferent informacion about what shims you put and were you put it, for diferent chassis whith raceberry chassi. Im little confused some says to put 0.5 under bulkeads and 2.0 mm under top deck. http://tchub.wordpress.com/2013/04/0...17-conversion/
Others says no 0.5 under bulkheads and 2.5mm under top deck.
Anyway anyone try it out, or have more info.
Best,

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Both are correct with 417x bulkheads. One has the diffs 0.5mm higher, the other does not, so it's personal preference. With V5 bulkheads you only need 1.5mm shims under the top deck.

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

After looking close up at a Raceberry chassis and seeing the top deck is not connected to the Yok motor mount I tried to duplicate it.

I installed .5mm spacers between the top deck and all bulkhead screws (front and rear). Then I put A small piece of foam servo tape on the underside of the top deck directly over the 2 layshaft bearings to keep the spur gear from rocking up and down under throttle. There are no screws attaching the top deck to the motor mount now (and a .5mm gap between them) allowing more flex in the rear of the chassis much like the Raceberry kit.

I also removed the front chassis-to-motor mount screw and installed a longer one in the same location but from the top side of the motor mount down into the chassis hole. Same concept as removing the factory screw and installing a stud like the team drivers do. This helped noticeably to increase rear chassis flex also.

I only ran this setup one race day (before our season ended this year) but on the same track layout I ran my personal best lap times that were .2 sec faster with this setup. Hope it works for you too.