Atlas YM34 Thread
03-02-2004, 02:41 AM
#647
Dragonfire
I have found that the car handles best with a softer set-up, the Atlas purple springs are quite hard though, I'm sure you wont want anything stiffer. What I have done is made some heavy sway bars, 1.2mm front & 1mm rear this stops the car leaning too much in the corners.
I run purple atlas up front and blue (kit) rear springs.
I have found that the car handles best with a softer set-up, the Atlas purple springs are quite hard though, I'm sure you wont want anything stiffer. What I have done is made some heavy sway bars, 1.2mm front & 1mm rear this stops the car leaning too much in the corners.
I run purple atlas up front and blue (kit) rear springs.
03-04-2004, 06:56 AM
#649
parts
hey dragon, john a,
i am finally getting ready to get my si out of the lab, and onto the ozite.
i need a few things first. parts. dragon you talked about getting some susp blocks and whatnot. did you ever get that stuff? if so where from?
here's what i need.
- u3 block
- b block
- delrin out drive set
- f/r arms
john, dragon, tell me where to go, because the integy site is a p.o.s and they won't answer the phone. oh yeah, and the prices are absurd.
help. thanks.
i am finally getting ready to get my si out of the lab, and onto the ozite.
i need a few things first. parts. dragon you talked about getting some susp blocks and whatnot. did you ever get that stuff? if so where from?
here's what i need.
- u3 block
- b block
- delrin out drive set
- f/r arms
john, dragon, tell me where to go, because the integy site is a p.o.s and they won't answer the phone. oh yeah, and the prices are absurd.
help. thanks.
03-04-2004, 07:36 AM
#650
Seaball
Email rainbowten www.rainbowten.co.jp, they dont have Atlas parts listed but get a delivery from Miwahobby weekly so they can get what you need, prices are about 50% of Integy.
Dragon
Make yourself some swaybars, get some 'music wire' from a hobby shop and bend them to the same shape as your original bars. Costs about 50c per metre!!
Email rainbowten www.rainbowten.co.jp, they dont have Atlas parts listed but get a delivery from Miwahobby weekly so they can get what you need, prices are about 50% of Integy.
Dragon
Make yourself some swaybars, get some 'music wire' from a hobby shop and bend them to the same shape as your original bars. Costs about 50c per metre!!
03-04-2004, 09:33 AM
#651
john,
have i told you, lately, that i love you? - rod "the bod" stewart.
seriously though, thanks. i've heard they are kind of lazy in getting back, but we shall see.
i'll give it a shot.
have i told you, lately, that i love you? - rod "the bod" stewart.
seriously though, thanks. i've heard they are kind of lazy in getting back, but we shall see.
i'll give it a shot.
03-04-2004, 01:31 PM
#652
Tech Regular
Type T on the Integy Weight guage
I've read in the past on this forum that the left/right weight distribution is way out on the type T.
Having just checked mine on the Integy weight guage I found that each corner was pushing equal weight giving a cross weight percentage of exactly 50%.....
Does this sound right, am I doing something wrong?
The car was fitted with 3300 GPs, KO 2143 servo, Monster Stock motor, KO 301 receiver with 30g (just over 1 oz)of weight added to the servo to meet our 1500g (3.3 pound) weight limit.
Having just checked mine on the Integy weight guage I found that each corner was pushing equal weight giving a cross weight percentage of exactly 50%.....
Does this sound right, am I doing something wrong?
The car was fitted with 3300 GPs, KO 2143 servo, Monster Stock motor, KO 301 receiver with 30g (just over 1 oz)of weight added to the servo to meet our 1500g (3.3 pound) weight limit.
03-04-2004, 06:23 PM
#653
Originally posted by JohnA
Seaball
Email rainbowten www.rainbowten.co.jp, they dont have Atlas parts listed but get a delivery from Miwahobby weekly so they can get what you need, prices are about 50% of Integy.
Dragon
Make yourself some swaybars, get some 'music wire' from a hobby shop and bend them to the same shape as your original bars. Costs about 50c per metre!!
Seaball
Email rainbowten www.rainbowten.co.jp, they dont have Atlas parts listed but get a delivery from Miwahobby weekly so they can get what you need, prices are about 50% of Integy.
Dragon
Make yourself some swaybars, get some 'music wire' from a hobby shop and bend them to the same shape as your original bars. Costs about 50c per metre!!
Will look for some wire for those stabilisers.. can't stand a car without em.....
keithander:
You might have balanced the car with the weights you put on. The type t has the battery near the middle i belive so it shouldn't be to far out to begin with.
03-04-2004, 06:29 PM
#654
Re: parts
Originally posted by seaball
hey dragon, john a,
here's what i need.
- u3 block
- b block
- delrin out drive set
- f/r arms
hey dragon, john a,
here's what i need.
- u3 block
- b block
- delrin out drive set
- f/r arms
Also would be nice to find a ti screw set as well and some ti turnbuckles. must look for these....
03-05-2004, 04:58 AM
#655
Tech Initiate
Dragon,
open miwahobby site and press Japanese page on the top left hand side on the page. Translate it using altavista or just look at the picture and get the parts no. and give the parts no. to rainbowten
open miwahobby site and press Japanese page on the top left hand side on the page. Translate it using altavista or just look at the picture and get the parts no. and give the parts no. to rainbowten
03-05-2004, 07:47 AM
#656
dragon,
control centre has most of what i need. i still can't find the delrin dif outs. get me a set too, if you locate them. haha.
let us know if you do find them at rainbow ten. i have them for the rear, and they are awesome. worth every penny. now i need them for the front, as we really don't run oneways on carpet.
cheers
control centre has most of what i need. i still can't find the delrin dif outs. get me a set too, if you locate them. haha.
let us know if you do find them at rainbow ten. i have them for the rear, and they are awesome. worth every penny. now i need them for the front, as we really don't run oneways on carpet.
cheers
03-05-2004, 08:51 AM
#657
Tech Regular
delrin
guys - i found the delrin fragile on our indoor track so went back to the kit outdrives....
03-05-2004, 08:08 PM
#658
I'll have a go at ordering by email and i'll let you know how i go....
Just out of intrest.. I have found this car to rival the pro3 for direction change performance. What does everyone else think??
I am told that tamiya make their hard tuned springs in a short version. Must have a look for that as the normal ones are only a little to long.
Just out of intrest.. I have found this car to rival the pro3 for direction change performance. What does everyone else think??
I am told that tamiya make their hard tuned springs in a short version. Must have a look for that as the normal ones are only a little to long.
03-06-2004, 10:31 AM
#659
Dragon
I'll back up Keith (he's my brother)
and say dont bother with the delrin outdrives they are expensive and dont last vey long before they start slipping. Also get the Atlas short purple springs they are as stiff as you'll need.
Running my Pro-4 tomorrow, bet I'm back to the type-T for heat two
I'll back up Keith (he's my brother)
and say dont bother with the delrin outdrives they are expensive and dont last vey long before they start slipping. Also get the Atlas short purple springs they are as stiff as you'll need.Running my Pro-4 tomorrow, bet I'm back to the type-T for heat two
03-06-2004, 01:05 PM
#660
i'm going against keith...haha. he's also my brother too...what?, 
. no, but really, i've used acetal (delrin) outdrives on other cars, without any real problems. this a very slippery material, so gluing the rings with ca is usually a requirement. no big deal, as it can be chipped back off when you rebuild.
and as long as the bones are inserted the correct distance into the outdrives, and an anti-spreading retainer clip (integral to the atlas design) is used it's tough to hurt them. most plastic outdrives are ruined by the cvd bone exceeding the travel allowed by the outdrive. use external limiters on the shock shaft, and that usually does the trick.
the diff action keeps the joint from seeing the large impacts that a oneway can bring. it will just break loose upon impact provided the other side isn't seeing the same force(s).
aside from hardened steel, which wears the steel cvd pin flat anyway, delrin wears less than any other material that our industry uses for outdrives. the beauty of the atlas outdrives is that they are machined. they run very true, are tons lighter than steel, and also run quiet as the vibrations in the bearings are slightly dampened by the plastic.
properly done, acetal outdrives should provide for plenty of usable life. i'm actually looking to use irs cvd's with this car. the one's that have the plastic pincushion. the pin cushion is .094, but the slot for the atlas drives is only like .082. that will actually allow me to file a small flat on the bones. plastic to plastic contact with increased surface area on the pin. if this works the car should see almost zero backlash for it's lifetime. and the best part is that the bones are like $12 for 4. i think this configuration should hold up for 27t stock racing.
my $0.02
. he's also my brother too...what?, . no, but really, i've used acetal (delrin) outdrives on other cars, without any real problems. this a very slippery material, so gluing the rings with ca is usually a requirement. no big deal, as it can be chipped back off when you rebuild.and as long as the bones are inserted the correct distance into the outdrives, and an anti-spreading retainer clip (integral to the atlas design) is used it's tough to hurt them. most plastic outdrives are ruined by the cvd bone exceeding the travel allowed by the outdrive. use external limiters on the shock shaft, and that usually does the trick.
the diff action keeps the joint from seeing the large impacts that a oneway can bring. it will just break loose upon impact provided the other side isn't seeing the same force(s).
aside from hardened steel, which wears the steel cvd pin flat anyway, delrin wears less than any other material that our industry uses for outdrives. the beauty of the atlas outdrives is that they are machined. they run very true, are tons lighter than steel, and also run quiet as the vibrations in the bearings are slightly dampened by the plastic.
properly done, acetal outdrives should provide for plenty of usable life. i'm actually looking to use irs cvd's with this car. the one's that have the plastic pincushion. the pin cushion is .094, but the slot for the atlas drives is only like .082. that will actually allow me to file a small flat on the bones. plastic to plastic contact with increased surface area on the pin. if this works the car should see almost zero backlash for it's lifetime. and the best part is that the bones are like $12 for 4. i think this configuration should hold up for 27t stock racing.
my $0.02