STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

That's what I've been running since I got the car. We all use AE shock springs.

woozer71

iTrader: (23)

I was wondering if they have bought out alloy driveshafts for the MI2 as I have a friend that has a problem with them breaking .

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

You can buy both Steel and Titanium, from what i have seen steel on the front and titanium on the rear. The stock plastic ones have way too much flex for mod. I had broken a few, twisted one of them 90 degrees along the length of the shaft.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

Help with rollcentres? i get confused with what adjustment does what, and also the relationship between front and rear. I generally run on foam, outdoors asphalt, but we are having a rubber only race, using sorex 36r at a venue where temp is expected to max out at 20 degrees celcius so i need to know how to generate the most grip as possible. Please offer some suggestions

mo

iTrader: (7)

The only way you are really going to get them to hook up on such a cold surface is tire warmers. Other than that, you should probably set the car very soft and with low roll centers front and rear.

LeadFoot

The last time I pulled a trigger and ran my car was about two years ago. The company I work for sent me to Washington D.C. to do some important work for them. Long story short, I just moved back to my home and my R/C cars this past April.

Last time I raced, I used a Shumacher Axis 2. I see now there is a Mission 2 available.

Unfortunately, things have changed and my local hobby shop no longer carriers Shuie anything so I am on my own. Yok, TC3, XXX-S and HPI seem to be the favs. The shop keeper was no help because he didn't want to make minimum purchase for Shuie because he was afraid he would not be able to sell the kits etc.

No problem, I can order online -- questions are as follows:

When I get the car, what else should I get in terms of spare parts etc? (I am racing on asphalt in New England; technical course)

How bullet proof is this car over my Axis? Should I keep my Axis

What parts are most likely to break?

I understand the Mission 2 requires a Shuie Spur, is there an adaptor so that I can at least get those local?

My other batteries are toast, what batteries should I get for Modified racing (10 to 14 turns) and which brand should I look at (please, no religous wars on batts just some suggestions and I will do my own research)


Let me apologize for Interrupting the flow of conversation, just hoping to get back into this and was hoping to get some help.

Thanks

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

There is no minimum order for Schumacher. a Shop can order a $0.99 bag of e clips if they want .

No problem, I can order online... Try www.speedtechrc.com or www.racing-cars.com in a couple of weeks when the new site goes up.

When I get the car, what else should I get in terms of spare parts etc? (I am racing on asphalt in New England; technical course)See Below

How bullet proof is this car over my Axis? Should I keep my Axis
Just as strong but better handling and way faster

What parts are most likely to break?
standard stuff on the perimeter of the car...arms, yokes...thats about it

I understand the Mission 2 requires a Shuie Spur, is there an adapter so that I can at least get those local?
The Adapter is U2744

My other batteries are toast, what batteries should I get for Modified racing (10 to 14 turns) and which brand should I look at (please, no religious wars on batts just some suggestions and I will do my own research) All good batteries come from GP now. Everyone is pretty good at matching them. For mod look for 400 sec+ run time and 1.16+ voltage.

markg

Hi Leadfoot...welcome back. I'll try to offer my opinions, and I'm sure you'll get others. If you go with the MI2 you shouldnt be disappointed. Around here the fastest electrics are the Schuie and XRay. From what I understand there isnt much you need to get to add to the kit to make it competitive. There is a raging debate going on about the relative merits of a spool (locked diff) vs a one way, so if you decide to go with the one way you'll need to buy one of those. There is a spur gear adapter to use others, so no problem there. The MI2 will outperform your Axis by a bunch.

If you go with a spool, you may want to stock up on blades for the drive shafts...spools tend to eat them, and if you dont replace it will eat your outdrive. Otherwise the car is pretty durable from what I can gather, but always good to have an extra set of A arms about.

Adrian can set you up with a great setup for the MI2 for asphalt/rubber racing, then you can tune from there.

For batteries, most are running the GP 3300 NiMH now. You can get them from many distributors...Integy, Kinetix, SMC...you know the drill. The numbers are astronomical compared to what you used to see...if you ran an Axis last, you were probably amazed by the 2400 NiCads...these 3300 mah NiMH have all the punch plus a lot more run time, which you will need because the newer mods are drawing tons of power. You may need a new charger too...

This group is one of the most helpful on the boards, so if you have more questions ask..I'm sure you'll get the help you need. And the guys at Schumacher (Adrian, Paul, Todd) are extremely helpful (and respond to questions on this board).

So good luck and have fun...

Mark

markg

D'oh...see what I mean...Adrian beat me to the punch....

LeadFoot

AdrianM: Thank you for all the info. I know there is no minimum order for Schumacher. I called earlier today. Its just a case of leave me alone and don't want to bother with you. No problem, I will find another shop otherwise I will order online. Cannot wait to see the new site.


markg: Thanks for the reply. I can't wait to play again. I am going to take out my Axis this weekend because I need the practice anyhow.


I found out today that the track I will be running only allows foams on asphalt. The reason given was that it was cheaper to run foams because you don't need inserts and you can get more runs than rubber. Anyone have experience with foam on asphalt?

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

I tried Nitro foams once...it felt the same as CS27's at my track...maybe a bit smoother traction in the corners...but thats it. With 37 shore foams 26mm front and 30mm rear the standard rubber asphalt setup would be a good starting point.

scott_g

iTrader: (9)

Leadfoot: a lot of racing in australia takes place on foams and probably the most popular combo (in general terms as of course it varies track to track) is 26mm front and rear - running around 40 shore GRP/Ellegi/Fast tyres. Sometimes 37 rears.

Don't get into a debate on the relative merits of foam vs rubber - it's like holy wars.

For setups you can start with the schuie setups, but you may need to go one spring rate firmer. Also be aware of your changing ride heights as you wear - most of the setups are for 63mm rubber tyres - but of course foams can run down to 57mm or so. Bersercoe has a bit of time on his mi2 on foam, so may be able to offer alternate ideas.

Best of luck

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

So far on foam, dirty outdoor asphalt we have been running ellegis, generally 35F, 37R. The car seems to like bigger tires, in the 62-63mm area, starts getting weird down below 61.

I have been going to around 20lb springs, 40wt oil, camber links low and short, and play around with rear wheelbase. The car seems to carry good corner speed, but i need to get a bit more steering.

I have been advised to play around with the lower hinge pins, but when i have the car feels strange, less direct. Battery to the rear, front gives more initial steering but less overall, makes the car feel lazy through the turn.

LeadFoot

AdrianM: Thank you again

scott_g: Thank you

Besercoe: Awesome! I will try the ellegis

I cleaned up my room today, junked some old stuff and have everything on the table all cleaned and dusted off.

So, I have an old Millennium Charger. I did not know if still will work with the new 3300 cells so I sent an Email to Novak. This is reply I recieved:

"This is the Thing, Yes, regular Voltage Threshold Chargers can be used for NiMH cells. Really any charger can when it comes down to it. It just depends how "hard" the charger is on the battery packs. Voltage Threshold or Delta Peak Chargers always, no matter what, slowly damage the cells when it peaks them. This is because of how it peaks. The Millennium Pro and Ionic feature Novak's NiMH2 mode, it takes much better care of the cells long term as it does not use Delta or Voltage Threshold values. It is a completely different type of peak method.

So you can use your Millennium but the Millennium Pro will be better for the packs long term. "

Question is, fact or fantasy? I also have an old Turbo 30 -- again, am I ok or do I need new charger?

Thank you all for all your help, I have been keeping notes and a notebook until I go cruise control on my own. I am actually starting to get excited to race again.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

The turbo 30 is a great charger. You shouldn't have any problems charging your packs with it. Sell the novak and buy something r/c related with the money. Look around the pits and see what other reacers are using. There are guys at my home track that still use the Millennium charger with some of the newer celss. If you have any doubts you can never go wrong with the turbo 30.