19LikesProject: Break in Dutch machine
11-07-2019, 09:18 PM
#271
Its from a shop in Hong Kong. Its owner who owns a couple of ebis knows a guy who made limited quantity for his close circle of racers, and the owner worked with that guy trying to improve the ebis. When he receive two machines lately so happened I was at the shop and I short of mugged one of those machines from him. The owner doesn't speak English and does not have a website, not to mention the limited run, so it might be tough getting another one, not to mention shipping overseas.
The owner told me the following difference of the "black break in machine" compared to the original:
1 A control box with integrated power supply and all the readings on one side
2 the engine tub is anodized in black to trap heat better
3 bigger engine coupler using 4mm screws
4 more powerful heat tubes
5 motor top speed up to 900 rpm
Have yet to find time to have a go on the bbis, but I am happy to be able to get one. I've sent messages to Richard but he has yet to reply to any of my messages...guess he is just busy doing other stuffs
The owner told me the following difference of the "black break in machine" compared to the original:
1 A control box with integrated power supply and all the readings on one side
2 the engine tub is anodized in black to trap heat better
3 bigger engine coupler using 4mm screws
4 more powerful heat tubes
5 motor top speed up to 900 rpm
Have yet to find time to have a go on the bbis, but I am happy to be able to get one. I've sent messages to Richard but he has yet to reply to any of my messages...guess he is just busy doing other stuffs
11-07-2019, 09:50 PM
#272
Tech Apprentice
Its from a shop in Hong Kong. Its owner who owns a couple of ebis knows a guy who made limited quantity for his close circle of racers, and the owner worked with that guy trying to improve the ebis. When he receive two machines lately so happened I was at the shop and I short of mugged one of those machines from him. The owner doesn't speak English and does not have a website, not to mention the limited run, so it might be tough getting another one, not to mention shipping overseas.
The owner told me the following difference of the "black break in machine" compared to the original:
1 A control box with integrated power supply and all the readings on one side
2 the engine tub is anodized in black to trap heat better
3 bigger engine coupler using 4mm screws
4 more powerful heat tubes
5 motor top speed up to 900 rpm
Have yet to find time to have a go on the bbis, but I am happy to be able to get one. I've sent messages to Richard but he has yet to reply to any of my messages...guess he is just busy doing other stuffs
The owner told me the following difference of the "black break in machine" compared to the original:
1 A control box with integrated power supply and all the readings on one side
2 the engine tub is anodized in black to trap heat better
3 bigger engine coupler using 4mm screws
4 more powerful heat tubes
5 motor top speed up to 900 rpm
Have yet to find time to have a go on the bbis, but I am happy to be able to get one. I've sent messages to Richard but he has yet to reply to any of my messages...guess he is just busy doing other stuffs
It would be great to hear about your experiences once you have used it for a while. Good luck.
11-07-2019, 11:17 PM
#273
Nice copy!
1) That is what I have mentioned to Richard many times, it makes it more like a finished product.
2) Why are heatsinks always black? Black does spread the heat much better, I do not think black is the solution.
3) Details, not really an issue.
4) Also details and I think not wise. When starting up the heat arround the heaters will go up more than set by the temperature controler. The heat need some time to get to the sensor of the controler. With more powerfull heaters there is a chance the oil arround them will be a little bit burned.
5) The EBIS can also go up to 1000rpm
1) That is what I have mentioned to Richard many times, it makes it more like a finished product.
2) Why are heatsinks always black? Black does spread the heat much better, I do not think black is the solution.
3) Details, not really an issue.
4) Also details and I think not wise. When starting up the heat arround the heaters will go up more than set by the temperature controler. The heat need some time to get to the sensor of the controler. With more powerfull heaters there is a chance the oil arround them will be a little bit burned.
5) The EBIS can also go up to 1000rpm
11-08-2019, 07:04 AM
#274
Roelof, can you let me know how you would break in your engines using the EBIS? E.g temp, rpm, and duration? Also I saw the current version from rctarget have a resistance meter, do you think that’s useful? And I wonder how I could include that into the EBIS? Thanks
11-08-2019, 07:56 AM
#275
I only run 400 RPM because my model has only a geared brushed motor. (My 1st buils has an adjustable up to 900rpm, I only use it on high pinch engines on higher revs. Normal pinch engines do not need an high revs, and if you think you do, then first start a few minutes with a low speed to go easy on the surface of the piston.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
11-08-2019, 04:46 PM
#276
Starting januari 2020 I will have my own machineshop so I could start making a series of these machines, if there is enough interest.
My own system has been running for over a year reliably and can run in three engines at the same time, fully automated.
I can also check if this would be ok with the original designer of the system, this is not Richard btw.
11-09-2019, 01:18 AM
#277
In which timeframe would you like to purchase such a system?.
Starting januari 2020 I will have my own machineshop so I could start making a series of these machines, if there is enough interest.
My own system has been running for over a year reliably and can run in three engines at the same time, fully automated.
I can also check if this would be ok with the original designer of the system, this is not Richard btw.
Starting januari 2020 I will have my own machineshop so I could start making a series of these machines, if there is enough interest.
My own system has been running for over a year reliably and can run in three engines at the same time, fully automated.
I can also check if this would be ok with the original designer of the system, this is not Richard btw.
11-11-2019, 11:03 AM
#278
I know, more people are also asking me but I have no intention for a mass production.
But there may be some light. I had Richard on Messenger yesterday and I mentioned people are xcreaming to get an EBIS. He wrote that maybe he should start to make some again, he has the materials.
But there may be some light. I had Richard on Messenger yesterday and I mentioned people are xcreaming to get an EBIS. He wrote that maybe he should start to make some again, he has the materials.
Hopefully he still has previous waiting list, I committed 30 months ago to purchase one !!
11-11-2019, 05:14 PM
#279
Let me draw something up the coming days which is commercially interesting. The version I made for myself has a built-in torque sensor and runs of a Siemens PLC, which simply isn't commercially viable.
I could start making something very similar, in terms of features and pricing.
As mentioned above I will have my own machine shop starting januari 2020.
If the demand is high enough I could also outsource the machining and get them out a little earlier.
If there is interest send me an email to info@ the website listed below.
As mentioned above I will have my own machine shop starting januari 2020.
If the demand is high enough I could also outsource the machining and get them out a little earlier.
If there is interest send me an email to info@ the website listed below.
Last edited by DS Motorsport; 11-11-2019 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Typo
11-14-2019, 07:23 AM
#280
11-15-2019, 04:43 PM
#281
I only run 400 RPM because my model has only a geared brushed motor. (My 1st buils has an adjustable up to 900rpm, I only use it on high pinch engines on higher revs. Normal pinch engines do not need an high revs, and if you think you do, then first start a few minutes with a low speed to go easy on the surface of the piston.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
11-15-2019, 05:33 PM
#282
I have writen it somewhere in this topic, it was experienced by the original designer that higher revs did not go any faster but even slower. I think it has to do with how the protective oil film is created.
And with 400rpm a simple 540/550 geared motor has enough power. I have tried a 370 geared motor with 400rpm but that was not powerfull enough
And with 400rpm a simple 540/550 geared motor has enough power. I have tried a 370 geared motor with 400rpm but that was not powerfull enough
12-01-2019, 11:59 AM
#283
Tech Adept
I only run 400 RPM because my model has only a geared brushed motor. (My 1st buils has an adjustable up to 900rpm, I only use it on high pinch engines on higher revs. Normal pinch engines do not need an high revs, and if you think you do, then first start a few minutes with a low speed to go easy on the surface of the piston.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
- start to heat up the system to 100 degrees. (celcius)
- start the motor and let it run.
- after an half hour you can put it back to 85 degrees
- let it run for 3 hours
- the lower the temp to 65 degrees and let it run for 30 min up to an hour.
- switch it all off and let it cool down.
With a current meter in the line of the motor I can see the current is a tiny bit up when lowering the temperature. I also know the start and the reasonable finish current so with tight or loose pinch engines you can see if it takes less or more time.
With the EBIS it should be possible as well, you can use any multimeter on the current setting in the power line of the steppermotor controler. Although a stepper has a different kind of current draw, a change in the force on the shaft should be seen.
Funny to see that RCtarget is finetuning their system with my ideas.
I only have one concern. In the ebis the engine seats like it seat in the car, but with the diy systems the engine faced up. What may be the problem with the conrod? Can the conrod be damaged or pop of the crankshaft? If there is no room to make a backplate to hold the the conrod on the crank what can be done? I know that the conrod cannot pop off the crank pin completely but as I can see it can move out of the crank pin a little.
Thank you very much for your time and experience sharing!!!
12-01-2019, 01:44 PM
#284
All is already discussed in this topic.
The rod movement sliding over the crank pin is limited by the amount of space it has in the piston. With the straight up position there is gravity that can move the rod by 2 or 3mm but with the ebis due the forces it is also possible that the rod is sliding over the crankpin within the limits. I have seen a stand up setup where no backplate was used and it worked. But I like to stay it put on the pin with max position so I made an adjustable backplate. If you have an old broken engine backplate you can drill an hole in the middle and use it. The hole is needed so no compression lock under the piston will happen.
The rod movement sliding over the crank pin is limited by the amount of space it has in the piston. With the straight up position there is gravity that can move the rod by 2 or 3mm but with the ebis due the forces it is also possible that the rod is sliding over the crankpin within the limits. I have seen a stand up setup where no backplate was used and it worked. But I like to stay it put on the pin with max position so I made an adjustable backplate. If you have an old broken engine backplate you can drill an hole in the middle and use it. The hole is needed so no compression lock under the piston will happen.
12-01-2019, 04:35 PM
#285
Tech Adept
All is already discussed in this topic.
The rod movement sliding over the crank pin is limited by the amount of space it has in the piston. With the straight up position there is gravity that can move the rod by 2 or 3mm but with the ebis due the forces it is also possible that the rod is sliding over the crankpin within the limits. I have seen a stand up setup where no backplate was used and it worked. But I like to stay it put on the pin with max position so I made an adjustable backplate. If you have an old broken engine backplate you can drill an hole in the middle and use it. The hole is needed so no compression lock under the piston will happen.
The rod movement sliding over the crank pin is limited by the amount of space it has in the piston. With the straight up position there is gravity that can move the rod by 2 or 3mm but with the ebis due the forces it is also possible that the rod is sliding over the crankpin within the limits. I have seen a stand up setup where no backplate was used and it worked. But I like to stay it put on the pin with max position so I made an adjustable backplate. If you have an old broken engine backplate you can drill an hole in the middle and use it. The hole is needed so no compression lock under the piston will happen.
