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Old 09-11-2006, 06:05 PM
  #646  
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LOL
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Old 09-23-2006, 05:43 PM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
The two engines are identical except for the sleeve material. The R-01 is an aluminum sleeve (AAC) just like the old 421P from Novarossi. For some reason or another(longevity maybe) they discontinued the R-01. The R-02 is the 7 port version. Get an R-03 if you have a choice.

*I just checked the website and it says differently. BUT, going on my past experience and watching the JP motors that others around me have used I stand by my statement.

I just got an R03 with a total of 8 tanks through it. Do you think I should swap the conrod now? Will the R7 work best with the R-03?

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 09-23-2006, 10:32 PM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Correction there is no JPFXT03T it is JPFXT03MT
The MT is microcasted piston and the T is CNC machined piston. The MT is faster but the T is more reliable for me
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:15 AM
  #649  
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Originally Posted by going4#1
I just got an R03 with a total of 8 tanks through it. Do you think I should swap the conrod now? Will the R7 work best with the R-03?

Thanks for any advice.
Those 8 tanks are with breaking in? If yes then replace the conrod if not than can go upto 2,5l 20 tanks.

You can better place the R5 or the new R6.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:10 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by PMSorber
Those 8 tanks are with breaking in? If yes then replace the conrod if not than can go upto 2,5l 20 tanks.

You can better place the R5 or the new R6.
I've been told the R7 is NOT compatible with the R01/R03 engines. The reason being given that the conrod is thinner than the crankpin of these engines allowing the conrod to move back and forward. I've got an R7 myself though and it look identical in width, height and length to all other standard Novarossi conrods. The groove cut down the centre is different though. I'll try and report back.

I've also been informed that JP is now not offering R6. True? I wonder. I've seen web sites still selling it but I have a friend who is in the RC business and he says R6 users (R6 being the conrod without the bushing running with the black coated wrist pin) have met with disaster using the R6. Until now I've only used the R5 and the R4 (which I use for break-in). Maybe I'll stick with the R5. Right now the biggest weakness is my driving. No conrod out there is going to fix that.

Last edited by going4#1; 09-28-2006 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 09-27-2006, 04:40 AM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by going4#1
I've also been informed that JP is now not offering R6. True? I wonder. I've seen web sites still selling it but I have a friend who is in the RC business and he says R6 users (R6 being the conrod without the bushing running with the black coated wrist pin) have met with disaster using the R6. Until now I've only used the R5 and the R4 (which I use for break-in). Maybe I'll stick with the R5. Right now the biggest weakness is my driving. No conrod out there is going to fix that.
No they still offer the new R6 conrod

JP R6

We used the R6 now for 2 National races (2 liter) and I have to say, they perform better than the R5. No problems found upto now!
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:53 AM
  #652  
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Originally Posted by PMSorber
No they still offer the new R6 conrod

JP R6

We used the R6 now for 2 National races (2 liter) and I have to say, they perform better than the R5. No problems found upto now!
That's good to hear. I may try one myself. What percent nitro are you using? 25? How many shims are you using on the underhead?
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by going4#1
That's good to hear. I may try one myself. What percent nitro are you using? 25? How many shims are you using on the underhead?
25% JP-Fuel. The ammount of shims differ per type of engine but in general we place .55 to .65mm.
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by PMSorber
25% JP-Fuel. The ammount of shims differ per type of engine but in general we place .55 to .65mm.
I'm using the R03 and R01. So .55 - 0.6 okay?

I'm getting an order of JP fuel next week. I've gone through a couple of gallons of Cosmo but don't like it much. Good punch but setting the engine is just too hard. When you're lucky the engine is fantastic but most of the time the engine either under-performs or overheats.
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by going4#1
I'm using the R03 and R01. So .55 - 0.6 okay?
Sounds ok but be aware that this is depending upon fuel consumption, type of track, engine etc etc. I assume that your R03 does not have .55 on top?
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Old 09-28-2006, 02:31 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by going4#1
I'm using the R03 and R01. So .55 - 0.6 okay?
depends on amount of nitro youre running, track location (sea level or above)
the 35 plus engines i got are made in the italien alps, so they made with .5....in holland where racing at sea level so you need to add +.1mm

hope this helps
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:36 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by team novarossi
depends on amount of nitro youre running, track location (sea level or above)
the 35 plus engines i got are made in the italien alps, so they made with .5....in holland where racing at sea level so you need to add +.1mm

hope this helps
We're close to sea level (~100m) so it looks like I need to add .1mm. Engine comes with the standard spacer.
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Old 09-29-2006, 09:49 AM
  #658  
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I don't think the fact of a factory being placed at high altitudes is the reason they built their engines properly shimmed to that specific altitude.......

every engine come from the factory with a safe margin considering altitude and fuel nitro content and quality.........
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Old 09-29-2006, 10:35 AM
  #659  
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does anyone know the hp rating of the jp fx t03s, thats the stock version, i just wanna know the difference between that and the novarossi ll3, if there close.
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Old 09-29-2006, 02:42 PM
  #660  
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Stock version is very fast, at a high speed track the difference between the stock and modded version was only 2/100 of a second.
The stock version is also very smooth on the powerband.
It works best with the 2601 or 2602 pipe with a short conical header.
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