Paul L

Hi, I have never tested with 17.5 in 12th scale but if i were i would start at 30deg. Thanks

with the plastic shocks the pistons are 1.0mm. the aluminum shocks have a piston set which gives you options. I should have mentioned that i used aluminum shocks.

No problem ED. As i said above i should have mentioned that i used the aluminum shocks with the 3hole 1.1's that come with them

Thanks.

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

Hi Paul,

You have probably had a chance to run most tires out there for mod TC, both on asphalt and/or carpet as well. So if you were to say what tire you liked best, maybe for decent life and still performed well after more than one run, etc., what would you pick? And I realize that different conditions and surfaces might change your answer, but if you "had" to choose one brand/type, your favorite for each surface.
(Remember to contact those manufacturers mentioned after you answer this, maybe there will be a little something extra in the mailbox for ya next week.)

Strapped a mod in my X-ray and ran for the first time this last weekend. Now I understand why you're always smiling.

Thanks for taking the time to help all of us out, it is truly appreciated,
Alex

Paul L

Hi Alex. The best tire out their in my opinion is the Sorex, 32 or 36 for asphalt and 24 or 28 for carpet, That being said they are expensive and wear out faster, but to me sorex are the most consistent and fastest, I dont remember which Sweep tires it was but Jon Lee at sweep sent me some tires a while back that i thought could possibly rival the Sorex. If you are looking for long lasting and more affordable you could argue for any of the others. The Ride tire is good for wear, 32 for carpet and 36 for asphalt. in the end their is a lot of options but i strongly suggest that every club has a spec tire, otherwise it can get out of control really quick. the difference between a normal performing spec tire and the hand built tire,insert rim combo can be laps over 5 min.

No problem!

paul

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

Paul pm sent

Tekin Prodigy

iTrader: (73)

Hey Paul, another question on 12th scale. When you lift your front end, do your tires lift immdiately with no droop, or do you run a little of droop? Thanks Chad

Paul L

Hi Chad. normally the suspension will lift a hair, like maybe .2mms or so but the spring will be preloaded on the kingpin still when holding the car in the air.

Thanks

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

I run 35 timing with a 95mm roll out and im pretty fast

projectX

Hey Paul,

You said you would get back to us, about what font arm sweep does, or under what conditions it works best in.

Good luck at the worlds,
Daniel

Paul L

Hi Danie. I did use .75mms of arm sweep at the preworlds. I felt like it gave the car a bit more initial steering and seemed like it helped with better forward traction. That is about all the testing i have done with that specifically lately. Im not 100% sure about that info but that is what i think right now, its subject to change, lol.

Thanks.

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

So is more rear toe good for forward traction, or is there an optimal rear toe angle ( say 3 degrees ) for better forward traction ?

Or, more generally, if you were to use a setup to gain the best forward traction in exchange for some corner speed ( Not a pure dragster.... so it would have to manage to get around a hairpin ) what would that setup look like? Higher roll center ?? Long car, and weight back, anti squat ? springs , shock oil... etc, etc

Thanks,

Jake

Paul L

Hi Jake. I think 4deg rear toe is maximum for best forward traction, i would also stand up the rear shocks, light front spring, more anti dive in front, 2deg caster, long car, a little front heavy. if you did that stuff you would prolly have a car that has amazing forward traction but would never get around a corner.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Paul,

Since the discussion is on rear toe, I'll write a book.
I usually don't use Hudy gauges on my car for set up, but I was going through my mod car the other day to prep for race and came across something peculiar. The manual states that a 1.5 mm shim in the rear of the rear arms will yield 3* of toe in overall when used with the std 0* hubs and no shims on the front of the rear arms. I double checked that the front arm mount was in fact 1 mm narrower than the rear as well. No Hagberg modification. When I measured toe using the gauges it showed just a hair over 2*. It was exactly the same left to right. I thought I must just have something weird going on with that car so I checked another of my T3's and 3 other T3's around our track with the same results.

Q1-When you measure, or indicate rear toe are you basing the values off of gauges, or the manual?
Q2-Any idea whats going on with the discrepancy between the gauges and the manual?

JanE

Hi Paul,

Have u tested the new servo mount? A friend and me tried it on our cars and we noticed that when the mount is placed correctly according through the applied manual, the servo can stil move for like 3-5 mm.. I dont use a servo saver but my friend does use the kit servo saver and we both have the same problem. When driving the car (on the mach , worlds warm up track) i noticed my car tented to push to the outside of corners and i felt i was understeering the car alot.. , so now im back to the normal mount and my car drives like a dream again..

Your thoughts please

best regards,
Jan

Skiddins

When I use that new mount, if I switch everything on (so the radio forces the steering to stay straight) and try to turn the wheels by hand the servo saver gets moved but the actual servo stays still and just buzzes.

I haven't found the problem you described and I have used it on carpet and asphalt.

JanE

I trust u when u say so, but try it on the track back to back, "we" noticed a slight difference in steering. Perhaps its between the ears and not on the track, maybe even cause we tried it @night and tracks tend to change alot when the sun is gone, but still it would be nice to hear the experiences from u and other drivers..