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Old 02-15-2008, 04:55 PM
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Default coloring your gas?

i just got a gallon of this gas: http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4092

and it looks like water... and its also VERY hard to tell how much gas i have just by looking at my gas tank... cuz its clear.

i remember reading somewhere that you can add a few drops of food coloring, i was wondering if this is safe, and how many drops should i use per litre?

also, when should you take the temp of your engine, after 1 full tank of driving? 2 tanks?
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:19 PM
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I also read that you can use food coloring. They say to use only a couple of drops.
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tree
I also read that you can use food coloring. They say to use only a couple of drops.
whos "they"?

and how much is a couple drops? 2? 10?

it wont wreck anything if i were to do that?
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5
whos "they"?

and how much is a couple drops? 2? 10?

it wont wreck anything if i were to do that?
A couple isn't 10. A couple by definition is 2, try two.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by annie_himself
A couple isn't 10. A couple by definition is 2, try two.
i was just saying a few random numbers to get the point across... ill try two.

/thread
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:57 PM
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2-3 drops will color a gallon nicely..

for a while i dyed my fuel black.. took 7 drops total of 3 different colors for the whole gallon
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Old 02-16-2008, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by looper
2-3 drops will color a gallon nicely..

for a while i dyed my fuel black.. took 7 drops total of 3 different colors for the whole gallon
all right, awesome thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.

i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.

thanks



edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.

my questions are:

1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)

2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?

thanks.

Last edited by Mugen MBX-5; 02-16-2008 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:01 PM
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Default Cold weather tuning

Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.

I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.

So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Cory B
Other people are welcome to correct me if im wrong, but I believe that you are supposed to tune to performance, not temp in the cold weather.

I have an OS V-Spec which runs at 220* F in the summer when I race, but when I raced it a month ago in 10* weather, it temped at 170* with minor tuning adjustments.

So i guess in conclusion, dont try to get a specific temp in cold weather, tune to performance.
ok cool, its just because ive temp tested my engine a few times and its always beloe 150.. so i figured it was really tuned wrong, but it runs fine with the odd "bog out" once in a while.

thanks
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5
all right, awesome thanks, thats exactly what i was looking for.

i was thinking red... but black sounds like a good idea too.

thanks



edit: k, i just drove my car around, it was in the cold and wind. i drove 2 tanks through it, not quite as hard as a racer would, but i drove it like normal.

my questions are:

1. it was running good, then it started bogging out, so i opened the HSN about 1/4 turn, then it ran fine, then it was bogging out again... so i checked on it and noticed it wasnt where i had set it before, i think it rattled itself closes a little bit? is that possible? so i richened it anohter 1/4 turn and it ran fine. but i was letting a friend or 2 try it, and sometimes it completely died out on them, i dont know if it was the engine fault or if they were accelerating way too fast (their fault)

2. i took the temp after tank 2 and the temp was only 110 farenheight... i let it sit for about 45 seconds by accident in the cold/wind before i checked, so i can imagine it cooled off, but how do i increase my engine temps? (not my header temps, i burnt my damn finger on it!! again!!!!) i heard engine temps should be near 220 F?? is it just because im running in the cold wind/ mud/ ice?

thanks.
Your head temps in cold weather will be considerably less because of ambient temp. Sounds to me like you have a lot of shims under your head button.. Try removing .1 to .2 so that you have a total of .4 to .5 head shimming. This will give you a cooler header and hotter head. But as mentioned tune for performance not temps. If you cant keep it hot enough wrap alfoil round the head ...

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Old 02-17-2008, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Your head temps in cold weather will be considerably less because of ambient temp. Sounds to me like you have a lot of shims under your head button.. Try removing .1 to .2 so that you have a total of .4 to .5 head shimming. This will give you a cooler header and hotter head. But as mentioned tune for performance not temps. If you cant keep it hot enough wrap alfoil round the head ...

MM

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allright, thats what i thought, just wanted to make sure.

i have no idea what shims are, what they do, how to remove them, how to tell how many i have..

what would be the problem if sometimes when i start it, i let it idle for about 20 seconds, then i accelerate... sometimes quite fast, and it dies. is it just because i need to idle it for a bit longer, or is it not getting enough gas? other than that it runs perfectly, i love my lrp .28... almost too much power, damn hard to control on ice, grass, cement, gravel.. etc.
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:03 PM
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correct me if im wrong but your idle could be set to low, you should have a idle knob on your radio and twist that a little higher and then see if it dies when accelerating, if it does come back
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kawasakirules
correct me if im wrong but your idle could be set to low, you should have a idle knob on your radio and twist that a little higher and then see if it dies when accelerating, if it does come back
ill try that. my idle seems to be perfect, if anything its a little high.. or else my throttle trim isint quite set right on my remote.

i think it was just the way my friend was driving it... it only seemed to happen to one friend (the idiot of the group).... i drove it today and it was running fine. i think what happened is i was curious one day so i took my HSN needle all the way out to see how it worked, and when i put it back it it wasnt quite as tight as before.. and i think it kinda rattled it self closed about 1/4 turn, i opened it a little and it seemed to solve the problem.

ps: hondarules
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:49 AM
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If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!

If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dgraham225
If your HSN is rattling back and forth, that's a very bad thing, lol! That can be detrimental to a motor, supposed it rattles inward more and more, that's leaning it out as your run it... And we all know that can be a bad thing!

If its that easy to turn or it moves on its own, I suggest taking it back out and replacing the o-rings on the needle...
yeah i didnt think it would be too good for the motor, i wasnt sure how to fix it. and im not 100% sure thats what happened, im gonna be keeping a close eye on it now thats for sure.
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