1LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
01-09-2014, 01:10 PM
#1216
Thanks!
So should I start with the same weight fluids, just buy the TLR fluid in the bottles?
I hope the kit diff fluids are ok to use? I hate breaking the cars down to change diff fluids...shocks are easy
Also...the TLR site does not list optional parts for the E version. Should I just look at the nitro version parts list for hop ups?
Looking at the online setup sheets...where are these 8 hole pistons (1.3 and "splits") from the Drake setup and the "up tapered" pistons from the Phend setup?
Going to use 5/7/3 diff fluids, 2.3 sway bars, kit springs and recommended shock fluid weights. And the basic Drake/Phend starting camber/shock locations etc.
Generally a hard packed outdoor rough track with some loose sand on top and in corners.
So should I start with the same weight fluids, just buy the TLR fluid in the bottles?
I hope the kit diff fluids are ok to use? I hate breaking the cars down to change diff fluids...shocks are easy
Also...the TLR site does not list optional parts for the E version. Should I just look at the nitro version parts list for hop ups?
Looking at the online setup sheets...where are these 8 hole pistons (1.3 and "splits") from the Drake setup and the "up tapered" pistons from the Phend setup?
Going to use 5/7/3 diff fluids, 2.3 sway bars, kit springs and recommended shock fluid weights. And the basic Drake/Phend starting camber/shock locations etc.
Generally a hard packed outdoor rough track with some loose sand on top and in corners.
01-09-2014, 09:00 PM
#1217
I was hoping to get some TLR assistance real quick.
I just built my 3e last night. I put the kit springs and shock fluids in it. The stock front fluid is 37.5 and rear is 35 as you guys know. With no electrics or anything the rears feel a little stiff but probably about right. The fronts are a problem...they seem way too stiff. If you drop the front from 3-4 inches it just stops like there are no shocks....no soaking at all. When you press the fronts down it takes a decent effort and they don't spring back like they should.
Is there any instance of faulty shock fluid or will this break in?
Also, what servo horn are you guys using? I used the 22 alum TLR horn on my SCTE but it looks too short for the 8.
I just built my 3e last night. I put the kit springs and shock fluids in it. The stock front fluid is 37.5 and rear is 35 as you guys know. With no electrics or anything the rears feel a little stiff but probably about right. The fronts are a problem...they seem way too stiff. If you drop the front from 3-4 inches it just stops like there are no shocks....no soaking at all. When you press the fronts down it takes a decent effort and they don't spring back like they should.
Is there any instance of faulty shock fluid or will this break in?
Also, what servo horn are you guys using? I used the 22 alum TLR horn on my SCTE but it looks too short for the 8.
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
01-09-2014, 09:23 PM
#1218
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
01-10-2014, 04:22 AM
#1220
Tech Regular
01-10-2014, 07:57 AM
#1221
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
01-11-2014, 07:39 PM
#1224
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
It is critical that you do NOT use the oil that comes with the kit (it simply doesn't have the quality control and tolerances). Use TLR oil and you will see that the front (and rear) is where it is supposed to be. This is a very common problem, and happened to my team. This advice came from Ryan himself (and supported by all the local pros)!
01-11-2014, 09:11 PM
#1226
Finally got a chance to race my 3.0 today and get used to it. It took me some time to figure out how it likes to be driven. First impression was it's super stable and easy to drive but not a lot of steering. Then I noticed that if I drove it easy into the corner it was really docile and stable, but if I was aggressive and threw it into the corner it handled more aggressive. Some cars change like that depending on speed, but this is the first one I've felt like the car will turn as hard as I want it to depending on how hard I drive it. What a great car! Does everything well, no complaints, no need to tweak it to make it better. Great job Losi.
01-12-2014, 09:37 AM
#1228
Tech Apprentice
I had this problem for weeks and thought it was just part of the break in process. Several guys at the track commented on how STIFF the front end was...how it wouldn't drop as fast as the rear end...not even close!
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
the first thing to check is whether it's the shocks at all. Take the shocks and sway bar off and see how loose everything is. Do the pivots have the correct number pivot in the correct position? Everything should slide up and down nice and easy...with virtually no resistance.
If the front end is tight (mine was), then crimping the plastic ends of the turnbuckles with pliers should mold the plastic to the ball studs. My front end got WAY looser after a simple squeeze of both turnbuckle ends.
Then I added the sway bar back into the mix. Tight. Again. The plastic '8' shaped connector got a squeeze with the pliers...nice and loose again.
THEN I put the shock back into their correct positions. Suh-mooooooth, baby!
Lesson learned: strip it down to the absolute basic moving parts, check for tightness or restrictions. Make sure the pivot points are the same number, in the correct position. Then add each moving part while checking for tightness until everything is back together and silky.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
01-12-2014, 09:59 AM
#1229
Sorry if this has been covered but can some one please post a picture or a different link to Adam drakes indoor setup. Everytime I open it, the setup sheet is blank. Tried it on my phone, iPad, and computer and it was still blank. Thanks in advance. Absolutely LOVE this buggy
What pdf reader do you use? Getting the latest version is generally a good idea.
01-12-2014, 10:05 AM
#1230
Tech Apprentice
It works for me from the car's page on TLR website.
What pdf reader do you use? Getting the latest version is generally a good idea.
What pdf reader do you use? Getting the latest version is generally a good idea.