Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Associated RC12R5 >

Associated RC12R5

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Associated RC12R5

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-19-2009, 09:19 AM
  #1096  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 234
Default

Balance your chassis plate by itself without the pod on the back. This is done with balance buttons. You never want to include unsprung weight (pod) when balancing. After you balance the chassis plate put everything back togather and then set tweak on a board. Make sure that you initially set with freshly cut tires.

Build your FE per Fred's advice. Keep it slop free from the turnbucles to the kingpins. If you get this wrong your car will always have tweak.


Check your right front wheel. It looks like to me that it is cracked... that alone can cause all kinds of issues.

I have heard that success in 1/12 scale racing is the sum of small things executed to perfection tied into lots and lots of practice.
Jeremy Otis is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 09:33 AM
  #1097  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
YmeBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,927
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PartTime
the speedo is on the same side of the chassis as the servo. its out of balance. Same mistake i made.

HTH

DK
It isn't it's 50/50 or very very close w/ the motor in the car.
YmeBP is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 09:37 AM
  #1098  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
YmeBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,927
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jeremy Otis
Balance your chassis plate by itself without the pod on the back. This is done with balance buttons. You never want to include unsprung weight (pod) when balancing. After you balance the chassis plate put everything back togather and then set tweak on a board. Make sure that you initially set with freshly cut tires.

Build your FE per Fred's advice. Keep it slop free from the turnbucles to the kingpins. If you get this wrong your car will always have tweak.


Check your right front wheel. It looks like to me that it is cracked... that alone can cause all kinds of issues.

I have heard that success in 1/12 scale racing is the sum of small things executed to perfection tied into lots and lots of practice.
I've got 4 cracked wheels on there now , they werent cracked when i went out hahah. They cracked due to the hooking when i wasn't expecting it and me ending up in the wall.

I think i'm going to disassemble the whole car and start over inspecting each and every part.

I've been using an old trick w/ a nail embedded in mdf and everything ground flat and leveled to do balance. Where would i buy balance buttons from?
YmeBP is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 09:42 AM
  #1099  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 304
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Your upper eyelets need to be flat on both sides. I can see the right hand side is tilted back a little which will compress the spring more than the other side causing a tweaked car.

Also you have to make sure your rear tires are fully glued. If they are not glued to the rim your car will spin out to that side.
fred kellner is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 09:54 AM
  #1100  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

What everyone here suggests is right on the money! Especially what Jeremy said about unsprung weight. Never looked at it like that but great info. If I had some coins to rub together other than the ones I'm using to set the tweak on my car, I'd bet half of it that the caster being unequal from side to side is the issue. take your wheels off and look from the side at your kingpins. One of them looks straight up 90 or ZERO DEGREES CASTER. Thats ok but very agressive steering. The other, Like some one mentioned the camera angle. May be more like what you would want like 1.25 or so for a more forgiving drive. Even more if its spinning out. From the looks of those pics I would wager the car spins out to the left, and pushes like a truck to the right.
John St.Amant is offline  
Old 02-19-2009, 10:07 AM
  #1101  
P2
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
P2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: SATX
Posts: 895
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by YmeBP
Where would i buy balance buttons from?
Here: http://www.teamirsrc.com/misc.html IRS3020
P2 is offline  
Old 02-21-2009, 03:01 AM
  #1102  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: England
Posts: 257
Default Balance buttons...

Don't waste your hard earned on fancy balance buttons. A couple of golf tee's turned upside down work just as well and are available for next to nothing...
TraceRacing is offline  
Old 02-21-2009, 05:56 AM
  #1103  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
YmeBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,927
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by John St.Amant
What everyone here suggests is right on the money! Especially what Jeremy said about unsprung weight. Never looked at it like that but great info. If I had some coins to rub together other than the ones I'm using to set the tweak on my car, I'd bet half of it that the caster being unequal from side to side is the issue. take your wheels off and look from the side at your kingpins. One of them looks straight up 90 or ZERO DEGREES CASTER. Thats ok but very agressive steering. The other, Like some one mentioned the camera angle. May be more like what you would want like 1.25 or so for a more forgiving drive. Even more if its spinning out. From the looks of those pics I would wager the car spins out to the left, and pushes like a truck to the right.
I'm going to the track today and i'll put it in my setup station to see for sure and report back. Thanks again!! You guys have been a great help!!
YmeBP is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 12:54 AM
  #1104  
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
 
chewiefttc4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bristol tn
Posts: 1,659
Trader Rating: 27 (97%+)
Default

as far as the single lipo anyone ever thought of running just a single saddlepack lipo cell.. i just picked up one of these and i have a 3200 mah trakpower saddle
can i use these for single cell application?
chewiefttc4 is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:14 AM
  #1105  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
 
rezenclowd3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 2,367
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Yes, you can use those for single cell applications.
rezenclowd3 is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 02:26 PM
  #1106  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,815
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Is anyone else noticing how close the servo saver ball cups are to their servo when running a 9650 using the std. mounts? When I have my 9650 mounted so the tie rods are parallel to each other, I have to grind about a third off the right servo saver ball cup to keep it from binding on the servo casing.

does anyone have a link to any of the 12r5's from Snowbirds or Cleveland?
andrewdoherty is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:08 PM
  #1107  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I have noticed it with some of the other racers, but I am not having that problem.
CarlosG. is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 07:56 PM
  #1108  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,544
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

no issues like that here either ...
John St.Amant is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:01 PM
  #1109  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,815
Trader Rating: 49 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by John St.Amant
no issues like that here either ...
I am using a Kimbrough small SS and have the studs mounted in the middle hole. They are near perfectly parallel when viewed from vertical and horizontal perspectives. In the pics above you can almost see what I am talking about in the pics from above the car.

What hole are y'all mounting the studs in, and what servo saver?
andrewdoherty is offline  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:27 PM
  #1110  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
 
YmeBP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,927
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

So i figured out why my car hooks . It was the diff. Not sure what the hell is wrong w/ the diff but it was the diff. I had another car i was building i swapped out the diffs and hook problem went away.
YmeBP is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.