What do you tune first?
#1
What do you tune first?
If your at a race, and your car is not handling the way you would like it, what do you change and in what order?
-aside from tires.
Out of curiousity, I get kind of flustered knowing that two adjustments can accomplish the same thing .
-aside from tires.
Out of curiousity, I get kind of flustered knowing that two adjustments can accomplish the same thing .
#4
Same thing here!
#5
after tires, I useally go to ride hieght, droop, camber, and toe. Then roll center and fluid changes if needed. I think weight transfer when tuning. For example, need more on power stearing, you need to make wieght stay more over the front tires and not shift so far back. I have a good setup, so I rarely change anything but ride hight and tires and accational rear roll center.
#6
engine/pipe has to be right and a priority, i am going to lump clutch and gearing in here with it depending on the traction can be a powerful tuning aid.
Tires, tires, tires
ride height/droop/shocks.
diff tuning has helped alot some times, only problem is it's a pain and if it doesn't work and you need to change again it's a tripple pain.
A turn or two of preload can have a dramatic affect sometimes. springs and oils too.
But most of the time tires/clutch/suspension will give me the most help.
Tires, tires, tires
ride height/droop/shocks.
diff tuning has helped alot some times, only problem is it's a pain and if it doesn't work and you need to change again it's a tripple pain.
A turn or two of preload can have a dramatic affect sometimes. springs and oils too.
But most of the time tires/clutch/suspension will give me the most help.
#7
if you know what change do what do what easy first
so you need more steering what can you do
go to a softer front bar
go inside on the arm on the shocks
go down one spring rate
drop your ride hight a mm up front
change your toe out a lil
so i start with ride hight and go run it again
then i change the toe
then i say is the spring going to help or should i try the arm first
so you need more steering what can you do
go to a softer front bar
go inside on the arm on the shocks
go down one spring rate
drop your ride hight a mm up front
change your toe out a lil
so i start with ride hight and go run it again
then i change the toe
then i say is the spring going to help or should i try the arm first
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Every brand if car us a little different in what is the go to setup stragedies. Some respond better or worse (or not at all!) to different changes. I don't know your racing history so please forgive if you may already know these things.
You have to prioritize what setup changes can be accomplished with what time you have available. Something that is not the ideal thing to do right away like ride height change, is valuable if all you have is minutes before a race. And you are trying to compensate for changing conditions.
More ideal things to change, like suspension geometry, Take more time of course. But can provide real powerful options. That is, if you know what they do for your car and driving Style. Here is the rub, and the answer you may not want to hear, but is all about test test test. Dedicate practice days to just
constant changes to roll centers and arm angles. Just so you know what they
do, know them like the back of your hand and help make the right guesses race day.
That being said, yes, two different adjustments can accomplish similar things but often with very different adverse consequences. Every positive change you make will have a associative negative side effect. So when deciding between different options you ask your self which ones side effect will give you lesser problems, and can you fix that with some other change. It's possible the side effect may well be irrelevant not needing to compensate.
Maximize gains, minimize losses, repeat.
Roll centers, swaybars and shocks are the main things I adjust. Kickup angles too if there is time. And the more you know your shocks the better, as they are the gate keepers between the tires and chassis geometry. Real bummer if there is bad communication there.
I am incredibly lazy, so one thing I do is keep multiple upper links assembled at my default camber settings. So comparisons or changes between heats are actually doable.
Also a second set of shocks, so comparisons can be made. And during racing allows a quick "undo button" if a shock change does not work out.
Those two investments will get you a faster car before any fancy pipe and motor.
You have to prioritize what setup changes can be accomplished with what time you have available. Something that is not the ideal thing to do right away like ride height change, is valuable if all you have is minutes before a race. And you are trying to compensate for changing conditions.
More ideal things to change, like suspension geometry, Take more time of course. But can provide real powerful options. That is, if you know what they do for your car and driving Style. Here is the rub, and the answer you may not want to hear, but is all about test test test. Dedicate practice days to just
constant changes to roll centers and arm angles. Just so you know what they
do, know them like the back of your hand and help make the right guesses race day.
That being said, yes, two different adjustments can accomplish similar things but often with very different adverse consequences. Every positive change you make will have a associative negative side effect. So when deciding between different options you ask your self which ones side effect will give you lesser problems, and can you fix that with some other change. It's possible the side effect may well be irrelevant not needing to compensate.
Maximize gains, minimize losses, repeat.
Roll centers, swaybars and shocks are the main things I adjust. Kickup angles too if there is time. And the more you know your shocks the better, as they are the gate keepers between the tires and chassis geometry. Real bummer if there is bad communication there.
I am incredibly lazy, so one thing I do is keep multiple upper links assembled at my default camber settings. So comparisons or changes between heats are actually doable.
Also a second set of shocks, so comparisons can be made. And during racing allows a quick "undo button" if a shock change does not work out.
Those two investments will get you a faster car before any fancy pipe and motor.
Last edited by johnny t; 05-02-2011 at 12:22 AM.
#9
go with a rc8t if you need more steering
but what i do if needed is usually just mess with the "shock angles" or "camber" "tires" ride height not to much really.
#11
There are sooooo many things you can change. It really depends on what it is or is not doing.
#12
Hudy Off-Road setup guide. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=4461
I know this book in and out, but it never leaves my tool box. No one can tell you what to check 1st, b/c no one knows you or your car. You will have to run your car and figure out whats happening and what it needs to get better. If your car is handling like total poo. I would find a base setup for that car. Run it on the track and adjust from there. BUT and I cant stress this enough, change 1 thing at a time. I know changing one thing at a time will take you longer to get there, but you will know if you are heading in the right direction and what makes the biggest change.
I know this book in and out, but it never leaves my tool box. No one can tell you what to check 1st, b/c no one knows you or your car. You will have to run your car and figure out whats happening and what it needs to get better. If your car is handling like total poo. I would find a base setup for that car. Run it on the track and adjust from there. BUT and I cant stress this enough, change 1 thing at a time. I know changing one thing at a time will take you longer to get there, but you will know if you are heading in the right direction and what makes the biggest change.
#13
+1 On Hudy
Hudy Off-Road setup guide. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=4461
I know this book in and out, but it never leaves my tool box. No one can tell you what to check 1st, b/c no one knows you or your car. You will have to run your car and figure out whats happening and what it needs to get better. If your car is handling like total poo. I would find a base setup for that car. Run it on the track and adjust from there. BUT and I cant stress this enough, change 1 thing at a time. I know changing one thing at a time will take you longer to get there, but you will know if you are heading in the right direction and what makes the biggest change.
I know this book in and out, but it never leaves my tool box. No one can tell you what to check 1st, b/c no one knows you or your car. You will have to run your car and figure out whats happening and what it needs to get better. If your car is handling like total poo. I would find a base setup for that car. Run it on the track and adjust from there. BUT and I cant stress this enough, change 1 thing at a time. I know changing one thing at a time will take you longer to get there, but you will know if you are heading in the right direction and what makes the biggest change.
So after tires here goes the Hudy summary:
1. Downstops (droop)
2. Ride Height
3. Camber
4. Track Width
5. Caster
6. Toe
7. Ackerman
8. Steering Servo Preload
9. Bump Steer
10. Roll Center
11. Shock Absorbers
12. Front Kickup
13. Rear Anti-squat
14. Wheelbase
15. Anti Roll Bars
16. Rear Wing
17. Clutch
18. Diffs
19. Gearing
20. Tires, GET THE RIGHT ONES FIRST!!!!!