Mugen MTX-4R
#496
#497
#498
Everything you need is in the kit. My car is completely stock and so are alot of drivers that use the MTX-4R in our area. Don't worry about what you think you need to be any faster. Your main focus is to get a MTX-4R, build it, and practice, practice, and more practice at your local track ( SpeedWorld ). Once you get familiar with the car and its driving characteristics, then you can make decisions on what to get ( IF NEEDED ). But, truthfully, the car is dialed out of the box.
Car fully rebuilt:
Car fully rebuilt:
It's not simple at all if you know what you're doing. I've helped many mugen users in our area about this so called " Issue ". Roenz ( baby serafin ) at VRC raceway stripped afew gears at his track, but after I showed him what was happening and what to do, he hasn't stripped a gear ever since . If you need help, let me know and I can show you. Get you kit first though
Read the "Stripping 2nd gear?" guide at my Web site and you'll be well informed about the issue.
If you take a hard hit, there is always the chance that the engine will move. That applies to any car.
Stripping gears is just a part of life. Everyone has a stripped gear now an then. Screws come loose, things wear, the engine shifts - anything is possible. If you take good car of your car, you reduce your chances for any problems.
On upgrades, Roger is right. You don't need to add anything to the "R" performance wise. You may want to consider getting (1) the original uprights (T0138-B), as the car drives slightly differently than with the newer uprights (T0164), so you can see what works better for your driving style, (2) the one-piece engine mount to reduce your chances of stripping a gear and (3) a front diff to run on tight technical tracks.
Hope this helps.
If you take a hard hit, there is always the chance that the engine will move. That applies to any car.
Stripping gears is just a part of life. Everyone has a stripped gear now an then. Screws come loose, things wear, the engine shifts - anything is possible. If you take good car of your car, you reduce your chances for any problems.
On upgrades, Roger is right. You don't need to add anything to the "R" performance wise. You may want to consider getting (1) the original uprights (T0138-B), as the car drives slightly differently than with the newer uprights (T0164), so you can see what works better for your driving style, (2) the one-piece engine mount to reduce your chances of stripping a gear and (3) a front diff to run on tight technical tracks.
Hope this helps.
if yours is a "R", just need to build the front Diff, get T0138-B, thick shock tower and one-piece engine mount if you have trouble fitting your engine on stock engine mount like me,
alway mesh the gear slightly tighter, DO NOT use paper method. I run my car for whole year, hitting polls, walls, and have other car hit me at the engine shaft, no problem at all
alway mesh the gear slightly tighter, DO NOT use paper method. I run my car for whole year, hitting polls, walls, and have other car hit me at the engine shaft, no problem at all
#500
Tech Apprentice
LOL !
#501
Tech Apprentice
Anybody know what the part number is for the mulitdiff ?
#502
I heard MTX4-R version has original mugen seiki multi diff...... but I don't know that part number yet.
In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html
In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html
#503
with the stock chassis it flexes thus is slower in the corners but may give more grip.
to me 4mm chassis a must and others with different cars do the same thing,nt1 RRR serpent all 4mm chassis.
but if you dont notice a difference dont worry about it,just keep driving and getting better.
i wish i could wright better to explain but i suck at it
#504
I heard MTX4-R version has original mugen seiki multi diff...... but I don't know that part number yet.
In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html
In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html
#505
The problem with the Kawahara solid/solid 0ne-way/one-way is it is a brick. I mean it is really heavy.
#506
The 4mm chassis works good on very smooth high bite tracks , but will induce a bit of understeer. I prefer the 3mm chassis almost everywhere I have raced especially if the track is not completely smooth like Toledo.
#507
new car
hi i am looking for a new car, since my R40 I crashed it down at the track and now looking for a new ride. When you compare the MTX4 with the Xray, V1RRR and the Team Magic in your opinion which is best to buy? what i saw is that the MTX4 comes with all the things no need to hop up. RE:shock towers or any other part that might brake easilly?
Joe F
Malta
Europe
Joe F
Malta
Europe
#508
you can go to mugenseiki.com and download the manual and see for yourself the parts numbers
is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?
happy racing
is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?
happy racing
#509
you can go to mugenseiki.com and download the manual and see for yourself the parts numbers
is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?
happy racing
is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?
happy racing
#510
the new 4mm chassis from KAWAHARA.