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Old 09-20-2007, 05:54 PM   #496
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Did you ever get the parts I sent to ya ?

Yeah, an overpriced JP that I got practically got for free Im still waiting for my ninja motor Wally .
Yes sir, one of them worked well
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:04 PM   #497
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Did you ever get the parts I sent to ya ?

Yeah, an overpriced JP that I got practically got for free Im still waiting for my ninja motor Wally .
i was just joking
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:59 PM   #498
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Everything you need is in the kit. My car is completely stock and so are alot of drivers that use the MTX-4R in our area. Don't worry about what you think you need to be any faster. Your main focus is to get a MTX-4R, build it, and practice, practice, and more practice at your local track ( SpeedWorld ). Once you get familiar with the car and its driving characteristics, then you can make decisions on what to get ( IF NEEDED ). But, truthfully, the car is dialed out of the box.

Car fully rebuilt:
You are his dad arent you? I know, but its like some cars need upgrades to make them tougher and all.... Just making shure BTW, looks AWSOME

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It's not simple at all if you know what you're doing. I've helped many mugen users in our area about this so called " Issue ". Roenz ( baby serafin ) at VRC raceway stripped afew gears at his track, but after I showed him what was happening and what to do, he hasn't stripped a gear ever since . If you need help, let me know and I can show you. Get you kit first though
Thanks

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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Mine is bone stock, except : longer titanium screws, front CVD and alluminium lower suspension arm holder ( kawahara ).

Always start with original setup manual as starting point.
I drove my track owners, so I have a set up, because I liked how it drove

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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Read the "Stripping 2nd gear?" guide at my Web site and you'll be well informed about the issue.

If you take a hard hit, there is always the chance that the engine will move. That applies to any car.

Stripping gears is just a part of life. Everyone has a stripped gear now an then. Screws come loose, things wear, the engine shifts - anything is possible. If you take good car of your car, you reduce your chances for any problems.

On upgrades, Roger is right. You don't need to add anything to the "R" performance wise. You may want to consider getting (1) the original uprights (T0138-B), as the car drives slightly differently than with the newer uprights (T0164), so you can see what works better for your driving style, (2) the one-piece engine mount to reduce your chances of stripping a gear and (3) a front diff to run on tight technical tracks.

Hope this helps.
I saw that, but as I dont have the car, I cant see how... Once I see one up close its easy to see im shure, but without really even looking at one, its sorta hard to see.....

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Originally Posted by Car Breaker View Post
if yours is a "R", just need to build the front Diff, get T0138-B, thick shock tower and one-piece engine mount if you have trouble fitting your engine on stock engine mount like me,

alway mesh the gear slightly tighter, DO NOT use paper method. I run my car for whole year, hitting polls, walls, and have other car hit me at the engine shaft, no problem at all
I dont use the paper method, I dont ever like how it ends up, I just mess with it till its good..... I will run a ninja, so I dont think I will have issues, atleast not that I have heard
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:23 PM   #499
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds View Post
yes the different uprights make the car turn or corner better depending on the track.
and if you want a non slugy car the 4mm chassis is a must the 1 piece motor mount helps but the chassis is a much better thing.
please explain slugy car and also the car turn or corner better depending on the track a little more detail required i would say
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:42 PM   #500
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LOL !
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:44 PM   #501
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Anybody know what the part number is for the mulitdiff ?
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:14 AM   #502
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Originally Posted by Paul D. View Post
Anybody know what the part number is for the mulitdiff ?
I heard MTX4-R version has original mugen seiki multi diff...... but I don't know that part number yet.

In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html



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Old 09-21-2007, 05:55 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by chookgb View Post
please explain slugy car and also the car turn or corner better depending on the track a little more detail required i would say
basically faster in the corners,more speed,zip zip
with the stock chassis it flexes thus is slower in the corners but may give more grip.
to me 4mm chassis a must and others with different cars do the same thing,nt1 RRR serpent all 4mm chassis.
but if you dont notice a difference dont worry about it,just keep driving and getting better.
i wish i could wright better to explain but i suck at it
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Old 09-21-2007, 05:55 AM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I heard MTX4-R version has original mugen seiki multi diff...... but I don't know that part number yet.

In mean time...... I know this part is very good alternative to mugen seiki multi diff : http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp/k.883.html



sweet
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:12 AM   #505
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The problem with the Kawahara solid/solid 0ne-way/one-way is it is a brick. I mean it is really heavy.
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:15 AM   #506
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The 4mm chassis works good on very smooth high bite tracks , but will induce a bit of understeer. I prefer the 3mm chassis almost everywhere I have raced especially if the track is not completely smooth like Toledo.
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Old 09-21-2007, 09:30 AM   #507
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hi i am looking for a new car, since my R40 I crashed it down at the track and now looking for a new ride. When you compare the MTX4 with the Xray, V1RRR and the Team Magic in your opinion which is best to buy? what i saw is that the MTX4 comes with all the things no need to hop up. RE:shock towers or any other part that might brake easilly?

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Old 09-21-2007, 12:02 PM   #508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul D. View Post
Anybody know what the part number is for the mulitdiff ?
you can go to mugenseiki.com and download the manual and see for yourself the parts numbers

is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?

happy racing
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:07 PM   #509
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
you can go to mugenseiki.com and download the manual and see for yourself the parts numbers

is the kawahara a multi diff like the nt1, or just one way/solid
i see no need for different kind of diff cup joints, one for one, one for
one way or is it for one way solid? just like the nt1?

happy racing
like NT1 it has all three. The different cups with the D-shape is for the one-way solid.
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:25 PM   #510
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the new 4mm chassis from KAWAHARA.
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Mugen MTX-4R-20079131p1.jpg  
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