niznai

Without knowing the rest of the car and track conditions what we can tell you is just information in principle which is too vague. And you can find all about that in the Xray tuning manual or the XXX Main.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

In addition to changing roll centre, changing the relative height of the ball studs (inner to outer, and also with respect to the arms) alters the change in camber from rest to compression. "Camber rise" is the common term here. A shorter upper link typically means more camber rise on compression. It does on our cars anyway.

Ideally, you want the camber when rolling to maintain the idea amount of contact patch for the type of corners you are dealing with. And that will change based on your driving style, the amount of grip available and the camber of the corner itself! The higher the contact patch (flatter tyre with respect to the track) the more grip *that* tyre can generate.

Still a vague answer, I know, sorry

Get the hudy set up book - it goes into heaps of detail. Also says when things should be changed.

The challenge is to get good enough to know something is occurring and when to change it!

bosschick

Thanks for the replies guys. I will try to get a copy of the X-ray or hudy manuals

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Sign up at learnsetup.com or subscribe to his rctech thread, his name is martin crisp. All the info you'll ever need.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

go here for the Hudy one. Free to download.

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=262&kategoria=0

Salkin

If I could ask you to be honest, what car where you fastest with on small indoor carpet tracks, the 417v5 or the 418?

Gordie88

iTrader: (2)

418 on carpet.. I had all 416-417......

Qatmix

As above, the 418 has been very good for me at my carpet track, the v5 was good, especially with the Sepes conversion. But the 418 is quicker and more stable.

Salkin

Thanks for your replies, I will work some more on the 418.

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

SOLD

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Guys I need some help.

My steering will not return to center. When I set up the steering if I turn it right or left it will not return to center and is about 1.5 degrees off. It happened after a small bump to the boards.

I thought maybe it was the servo. So I tried a new and different one, no luck.
I thought then maybe it was the servo saver spring. So I screwed on a servo horn direct, no luck.

Everything looks straight, nothing bent. The steering has no binding when completely disconnected from the servo.

I am at a loss, anyone with some ideas?

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

For those visual folks. I set it up perfect +1 degree toe out and then when I turn left it returns right back to that spot. However when I turn to the right it comes back short or -1 degree toe in.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=goin2drt;13564529]Guys I need some help.

My steering will not return to center. When I set up the steering if I turn it right or left it will not return to center and is about 1.5 degrees off. It happened after a small bump to the boards.

I thought maybe it was the servo. So I tried a new and different one, no luck.
I thought then maybe it was the servo saver spring. So I screwed on a servo horn direct, no luck.

Everything looks straight, nothing bent. The steering has no binding when completely disconnected from the servo.

I am at a loss, anyone with some ideas?[/QUOTE

Same problem. Tried everything possible to correct this and just end of living with it, besides this and my issue with killshot motor mounting spacing its a good car.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

While waiting I replaced the uprights, replaced c-hubs, inspected DCJ's for straightness and inspected the bearings. Still does it.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

[QUOTE=b20btec;13564745]Problem is I can't drive well enough to deal with it. It veers on the straight because it doesn't return to center. That was my problem.