Hpimichael

okay guys, one last thing ... when i reinstalled my engine are both gears on the two speed supposed to move?? like both my pinion gears and tounching and spinning both spur gears(the two speed) is this normal????

if not how do i fix??

Mike

Rapid Roy

Both gears should rotate

SasonRC

So as I promised earlier, here is my first major race report with the R40. I took some time off on-road racing and returned with a new engine and the old r40. I had this kit since it came out but I updated it close to the HARA kit of today.

Some of the KITS at this race: NT1, Serpent 720 and Mugens.

I am not a master racer so I knew I was in for some action. The drivers I went up against are national racers that have been doing this all along for the past few years.

The car behaved a little erratic during the first qualifier. My issue, two speed kicked in too early (New engine more power) making it overheat and lose some spooling on the inside. I managed 15 laps where the fastest guy was on 17 laps. Not too shabby heh!! Second qualifier: My two speed was getting better, traction was improving and the car started to have too much turn in on the corners. towards the end I hit a corner block and popped a steering upright that pretty much caused me a few laps. End results 13 laps. I looked at my clock and on every lap, I was getting faster and faster. from 22 seconds down to 19 at some point. At this point I was having a good time even though I popped a knuckle. 3rd qualifier I changed my springs. black in front, red back, added some more camber and toe in the back as I felt a little push on the corners. 3rd qualifier, I was having a great time now. My engine was getting faster and again my two speed started to kick in early. Somehow on the straight away someone on an NT1 running a KONDO engine decided to slam me from the rear and after that my car was lose on the sweeper and 180 turns. This caused me more laps so again I ended up with 15 laps where I was well into 16 or 17 even. My damage, the spring holder was blown off causing the right suspension to drag on the floor, and on that tumble the shock tower cracked but it was still workable.
At this point all the fast guys were on 17 and 18 laps with good time. I ended up on the B main 7th spot. I couldn't believe it, these guys all had the same laps with millisecond differences. Some of the fast guys also ended up in the B main with me. So, here I was still trying to get the car properly dialed in the B main running with some good talent. I was able to move from the 7th spot to 5th running super smooth but not too fast. My car never flinched during the main 10 minutes so this to me was already a good sign that the R40 properly dialed with a good confident driver can definitely still compete.

I think that the right set up with the car as well as mastering clutch and two speed settings for the track you are racing is crucial, then off course driving experience. I still felt a little rusty on the track but as I continue to practice my times will improve.

A few tips I learned.

The clutch needs to engage according to traction. with high bite you want the clutch a little lose to allow the tires to grab. Weird but that is what I learned from some of the 1/8th guys. Also based on your gearing (Pullies) your tires need to be trued to 63mm rear/ 61 mm front or 62mm rear/ 60mm front where there is 1.5 to 2mm tire wear. Plus some good pitting techniques that you can only divulge off while at the track

The set up:

Front

Front diff 50K
ride height 5mm
Toe +1
camber -1.5
droop 0/ bump stop ??
caster 4mm front/1mm rear (Using the clips)
black spring/ shock oil 60
Stock pully
Tire: Nitro shoes 38 shore/ 61mm

Rear

Four gear Diff 30k fluid
ride hieght 5.5 mm
toe -3
camber -2.5 right tire/ -3 left tire (More right turns)
Droop 0/bump stop ??
red spring/ shock oil 50
wheel base was 1.5 mm rear/ 4mm front (Using the clips)
Tires: nitro shoes 38 shore/ 63mm

OS EB Mod TZ with OS pipe.
Body: Stratus 3.1 and Alfa Romeo

Track: Pro Speed RC Raceway Middletown NY.

Clutch set up with a hair of threading on the nut adjuster with 1mm washer inside the bell using the hard roulon red shoe from Delta ( I had bought a whole bunch back in the days!!). I think I used .6mm worth of washers on the outside of the thrust bearing.
I also added a few shims to the top of the left steering post to eliminate wobbling on the whole mechanism. Also make sure there is little friction on the drive train. Do not overtightten belts.

Other than that I think I need to get better at driving and win something to show you that this car still has balls.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

are you racing it at the track in sept at that state championship?...

regg151

Sason Great race report, looks like you had your ears open at the track picking up on all the setup info that was being passed around. I need to pay a little more attention to the conversations going on around the pit tables since I was sitting right next to you and missed most of the tips.

AS for my day at the track lets just say I was plagued with bad luck all day.

wacked a board during practice and ripped the stinger right off a fairly new cvec pipe, managed to screw it back in but it didn't seal properly causing the engine to run a bit lean.

1st qualifier warmup went fine topped off the tank only to have the engine flame out after 2 laps, couldn't get it to start so got a DNF

2nd qualifier went just like the first go figure

3rd qualifer switched out the cvec for a THS pipe I brought while at the track from a fellow racer, needless to say corrected all my problems at least with the engine, was on a 15-16 lap pace doing quite well until the left rear wheel decied it had enough and parted company with the rest of the car so only managed to complete 14 laps. overall I was just happy that I got to run more then 3 or 4 laps and have the engine flame out.

managed to place 6 in the B main and was ready for ten minutes of hard raceing unfortunitly my rusty driving decided to interfear and the lack of a regular pit guy all conspired to keep me from finishing more then 5 laps just small stuff that always seems to happen in the heat of the moment but otherwise the car handled itself very well myself on the other not so well but still had a good time.


Sason I have a few surprises for our next race have a few things coming my way via the big brown truck.

SasonRC

Evil: My ears were super wide open and I heard a lot of set up conversations around the pits.

FastHarry: I am looking forward to attend that race, hopefully I meet their ROAR requirements. In the meantime I am trying to get the car running at a few more big events to polish up the driving skills.

bxpitbull

iTrader: (6)

I am getting my R40 ready, got my pipe coming (THS 1015T). Looking forward to getting some burn with you guys before it gets cold. They are opening a track in Long Island that is carpet and asphalt, year round racing. Will you be there? Also, could you email me soome set-up tips for the R40. [email protected]

Thanks

regg151

hey Bx pitbull where on the island are they opening a track and is it nitro or electric??

as for the setup tips the kit settings are actually pretty good, they make a decent starting point you can also visit the hpi site and get hara and thad's setups for the R40. also try an advanced search on this thread and you will find several setups from various other R40 users over the last 4 years.

Hpimichael

hey guys,

i have a small binding qustion, that being the clutch , i set it so there was only one thread showing and i ran it and then i took it apart and the clutch spirng was compressed all the way, and this keeps happaning ... any ideas?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

are you saying the clutch spring holder was screwed all the way down?...

does the point of engagement change?

BTW,I PM'd you on the r40 I have for sale....

SasonRC

HPI Michael this happened to me before, you just want to add a small amount of threadlock to the spring holder then thread it down to leave one thread.

Let it cure and you should be fine.

regg151

wondering if anyone still visits this thread, I could use some pointers on the front spool, i tried it out this weekend and I gotta say I'm still on the fence about keeping it or going back to a front diff with 300K.

my main problem is that the rear of the car is just way too loose on the sweapers and the 90* turns not too much of an issue but on the 180* turn it was a bear to keep the front end pointed down the straight not have the back end jumping in front constantly.

final and most stable setup of the day was

Front
60wt 1 hole piston stock black springs
sway bay at horizontal, 1.5 deg of toe in 2.5 deg of camber
HPI Carbon fiber shock tower stock mounting locations

Rear
55wt 2 hole piston stock black springs
stock setting on rear sway bar
3 deg of toe in, 4 deg of camber (noticed very little coning)
HPI Carbon fiber shock tower stock mounting locations
30K diff fluid partial fill (1/3 full) 4 gear mod

ride height 5 front 5.5 rear all other settings stock.

even though it was the most stable it was still very loose in the rear, track was very tight and technical, I also noticed no lack of turn in as I was expecting but got a lot of wheel spin coming out of some of the tighter corners almost like the inner front wheel was lifting up and spinning free either that or the back end was spinning free hard to tell from the drivers stand.

at this point any pointers would be greatly appriciated.

Rapid Roy

What shore tires are your running? Softer rear tires would help a lot unless you are having too much rear tire wear. You could also try silver (soft) springs in the rear. Remove the sway bar. The thing that would probably help most is to empty out your rear diff and just run grease. You can also increase the rear droop. This will keep the inside rear more planted.

The front inside definately isn't spinning because of the spool. Whats happening is that the inside rear is lifting causing all the rear traction to go the outside rear. With the rear diff in semi posi mode with the 30k, too much power is going to the remaining tire in contact with the track. I used to run a ball diff in the rear of my old Racer2 so I could tune it to the track. The drill was to tighten it up until it would spin on power exiting the turns and then back it off just a bit. The higher the traction, the tighter you could run the rear diff.

regg151

knew I forgot to mention something I was running 35 shore F/R and rear tire wear was more then usual even with 4 deg camber in the rear the outside edges of the rears were worn down and lightly chunked at the end of 5 min. Traction was fairly high at the track.

I was running grease earlier in the day and it was all over the place after adding in enough 30K to cover the bevel gear it seemed a bit more planted but was still spinning out. I'll go back to just grease and give the rest of your suggestions a try hopefully it will get me in the ballpark.

ProE

You have to look at what stage of the corner is the end coming around. Is it at conner entry off power, mid corner, or on power corner exit.

I had this issue as well with my kit during corner entry off power.

It all comes down to weight transfer. If your car pushes when going into a corner, it means that not enough weight is being transfered to the front wheels. If your car's back end wants to come around, it means that to much weight is being transfered to the front.

You can do what Rapid Roy has suggested. Go softer in the rear wheel shore, or you could go harder in the front front wheel shore. Go as hard as possible, while still getting all the grip you want. (front and back) Remember higher shore wheels last longer(less wear). Less wear also means that your setup stays the same during a race. A simple example could be ride height. Lets say you start with 6mm front and back. Because you are running low shore wheels, you will have alot of tire wear. You could end up for example with an 5.5mm up front and a 5mm in the rear. This would change the weight transfer of your car and also affect your handling.

The second option you could go for is harder springs in the front and softer springs in the rear.

Look at what point is the car behaving badly. On power or off power.

On power, start by making changes to the rear first, and then to the front.
Off power, start by making changes to the front first, and then to the rear.