rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

Gene.. Cen guys alike..

Here is a link to the discussion on tech talk.. please dont pay attention to the whiners. lol.. I would love to see you guys out there.!!! would be awesome..
As for the race It is a annual event Motorama in itself is an event that kicks off the outdoor season on several racing sectors.. there will be Kart racing.. MX.. and tuner show.. a small concourse show.. Robots.. some Trials type riding.. and vendors for full scale racing everywhere..

The event is Feb 15 and 16... controlled practice on the 14.. the track will be large and looks of good sized rollers.. assembled of whatever dirt is at the arena usually a mix of top soil mulch and horse doo doo! . LOL..
It will be held in the Farm show complex in Harrisburg Pa..

. It did recieve some small mag coverage last year so I would expect some again this.. The RC sector is getting bigger and bigger every year..

Usually a good competitive attitude... a few of the usual types.. but always fun... a litte pricey but hey in this hobby what isn't..

Heres the link to the page with the cad layout.. I know Mike personally and would think the track to be as close as possible to this.. He is pretty thorough..
http://techtalk.teamtrinity.com/tt/s...=13522&page=27

I know Systma took this event last year so he may know some stuff as well..

Classes are limited to 1/8 Buggy, 1/8 Truggy, and MT

lockmouth

iTrader: (33)

That's going to be kinda to close for alot of the CEN team guys.... I think CEN is going to pack the house at the Psycho Nitro Blast ( Feb. 1-3 ) in tha ATL Gene I think it is going to be like the AIC 5.0 Race..... CEN is going to represent in a major way

rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

Merry Christmas CENers

Thorin

Hey guys,

I went to my local bearing place and asked about bearings. They want to charge me almost 16 dollars EACH for the 8x16x5 bearings that we use on the CEN Diffs, and the wheel hubs. These are just standard metal bearings that SKF make.

AMain have these size bearings for 10 bucks for a pack of 10. Obviously the more you pay for bearings, the better units you are going to get.

I want to know what you guys thing about the bearings. Where is the best place to get them at a reasonable price. What are the best bearings to get.

Some bearing specialists that I've spoken to suggested that while ceramic are good, metal are actually better. He said the biggest hurdle is that metal expands when its hot, which is why people go for ceramic, however, there is this thing called (i think i have this right) C3 spacing. It's a specific type of bearing that has more spacing between it so that when the bearing expands, it still moves freely.

So I've got a whole lot of stuff coming from the states, hubs, spindles, spindle carriers, and I don't really want to put all the new stuff together with old bearings.

What do I do, what do I get, where do I look.

As always thanks in advance.
Jase

pooldoc

iTrader: (19)

Avid bearings have some good products,
http://www.avidrc.com/

rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

+1 on Revolutions...!!!!

Robert.Hull

iTrader: (11)

run avid thats all i run even for my clutch bearings there only a buck a piece and work VERY well and last extremly long if i wanted to i can run about 6 races on my clutch bearings before they even start to not feel like butter
avidrc.com
also consider get the indo brakes for your truggy also

Thorin

Ok. These guys are cheap. Metal, Ceramic?? What are you guys running, what lasts longer?

Jase

rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

Run the metal Revolutions put the rubber to the outsde of the flange in all applications..
Offroad is to hard on bearings to run ceramics at there price point.. and the gain is minimal.. in that application.. unless I was running with Drake and Bradley.. Smolnik or Gene.. I wouldn't fret the ceramics.. even then I think I would have to think about it...

run the avid Revs and clean em out.. remove rubber seal.. clean with nitro spray... Blow em with air until they are free..relube with bearing lube.. ( if its a CB bearing I always blow out at 20psi after relube..So's that mess doesnt end up on my clutch shoes.). Re install shield and install..

Thorin

Down at the track on the weekend and I was watching a guy with a jammin truggy, not sure exactly which one. I noticed his car steered very easily, it stood very level around corners and jumps. It didn't seem to have much down travel when it went over jumps.

I have a couple questions. I am wanting to speed up my steering, its just very sluggish, a wide turning circle etc. I've read that decreasing the caster can make the steering much more responsive. I understand what caster is, but do not know how to adjust it.

The other thing, regarding ride height and suspension. On the insides of our lower arms, both from and rear, there is an adjuster grub screw. By screwing this in, the arms will raise and as such, limit the down travel somewhat. Will this help keep the truggy more level as it corners?

First truggy I've ever had and I love it, I just need to get the finer details sorted.

BTW: Those avid bearings are on their way. I'm getting a few full sets to make the order worth it (Shipping to Australia)

Just so you know, I was running the shocks that come with the FRE, but I've invested in the Jammin super big bore shocks with grey springs. I'll be using 40wt in the rear and 50wt in the front. (Higher number is thinner oil right?)

Regards,
Jase

scubajt41

iTrader: (3)

just bought a cen truggy.. upgraded servos.. anything else?

annie_himself

iTrader: (5)

Caster can be adjusted by buying the optional C-Hubs CEN offers.

Stiffer sway bars will help keep the chassis level when turning.

Higher number is thicker oil.

Good luck.

Thorin

I'm having some trouble that I need some help with.

I had my tr operating really really well. I snapped a clutch bell and lost a bearing so I ordered some gear from the states.

I replaced the spindles and carriers, the rear hubs, bearings etc, upgraded to the jammin 16mm big bore with grey springs.

I bought some fuel line because I didn't have much in there before, and it means i have that extra bit of fuel, and it'll last longer if it turns upside down. I am running the fuel line exactly where the manual suggests.

I replaced the clutch bell with a CEN T15. I've replaced both the clutch bearings and have made sure that the clutch bell rotates freely and it does.

Everytime I get on the throttle, the engine stops. I thought it was just flooding because it was too rich, so I leaned it out a little. Still plenty of smoke on throttle, but it just dies. I tried getting on the throttle really slowly and it got a little higher in RPM, but still died. The high speed needle is 1 3/4 turns from all the way in. I don't know what is happening. I haven't checked the low speed needle, but i am fairly certain its stock (what the manual suggests) I think the inner hole of the new fuel line is slightly thinner, by maybe 1/2 mm.

BTW: I am running an OS 30VG.

Can someone help, I am really eager to get out there and refine my setup.

Jase

Thorin

Double post, I'm sorry.

Which is it supposed to be for shocks:

Thicker oil in the front, Thinner in the rear

or

Thinner in the front, Thicker in the rear.

ILDRVR

Your motor should come with the factory needle settings. Set them back to factory and lean out the high speed needle a little at a time (1/4 turns) first then move to the low(1/8 turns). (just like you did for break in) This should help you. Also make sure you do not have a leak in any of the fuel line. This will make it act like it is lean.

I hope this helps...Remember to temp often