Inferno MP9 thread
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How are you guys shimming the front and rear diffs?
Eddy
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
How are you guys shimming the front and rear diff? I noticed that there is a good amount of play between the ring and pinion even with one shim on the left side of the diff.
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
I put the foam from an old air cleaner under my tank just to help cushion the tank in the event of a really hard landing.
Lee
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
How are you guys shimming the front and rear diff? I noticed that there is a good amount of play between the ring and pinion even with one shim on the left side of the diff.
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
Just like any car, you want as little play as you can get. Both side to side in the housing and between the ring and pinion
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I'm going to try out your outer hole on arm setup. I've always been curious about running the outer holes. The front seems a little soft with the lighter oils but we'll have to see on the track.
What kind if surface do you run that spring setup on (bite, smooth or rough)? I have been preferring lt blue front orange rear lately but will try all lt blue to stay consistent with your recommendation.
What kind if surface do you run that spring setup on (bite, smooth or rough)? I have been preferring lt blue front orange rear lately but will try all lt blue to stay consistent with your recommendation.
Of course there will be times where a tweak to the setup may be needed on loose tracks such as orange springs on the rear.
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Last edited by My ST-RR EVO; 04-11-2013 at 09:16 PM. Reason: error in posting
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Last edited by My ST-RR EVO; 04-11-2013 at 09:18 PM. Reason: error in posting
revised post
I just switched back to the stock pistons. 32.5f / 27.5r with TLR oil is working great in my car with the rest of my set up. Its a good starting point in 60-65 degree weather.
How are you guys shimming the front and rear diff? I noticed that there is a good amount of play between the ring and pinion even with one shim on the left side of the diff.
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
Also, what'd you guys do to the tank? I've heard of people putting foam under the tank so it won't crack on the chassis.
Eddy
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
I run a piece of thin sponge under my tank. 0 issues since the original TKI1. Plus it helps soak up overflowed fuel during pit-stops for "less mess" on the chassis! Only issues I've ever seen with Kyosho tanks are on the ST-RR truggy.
My diffs didn't have much side to side play within the housing, so I didn't use many if any shims for that, but there was just a little slop between the gear. I did notice that the pinioin gears didn't make full contact against the diff gear. I shimmed the pinion gear by sliding shims (from KYO96643) on the pinion shaft before putting the shaft through the bearings. The shims fit perfect over the shaft and only touch the inner race of the bearing, not the seals. Since the pinion's gear have a wider diameter the more it gets shimmed toward the diff gear, the tighter it gets, which takes out the little bit of slack that was there. A little unconventional, but now the teeth are making full contact and haven't had any problems since I did it numerous months ago. The diff spins true and smooth.
Eddy
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
My Son ran the outer hole setup at the recent National Titles here and the track was grippy but the setup will work on Moderate grip tracks also and seems to be stable through the rough.
Of course there will be times where a tweak to the setup may be needed on loose tracks such as orange springs on the rear.
Of course there will be times where a tweak to the setup may be needed on loose tracks such as orange springs on the rear.
Getting myself a set of orange springs may also be a good idea for my home track as its very loose...
I hope to be over ur way next fortnight for the night meet. I will run the Cody king setup as a start, it will be the first time I've ran my mp9 on that track. A bit excited
Good to know. I just rebuilt with Mugen 450F\400R that comes out to about 35 and 30 Losi so Im not far off. I have the light blue springs on now but plan to give the orange on the rear a try tomorrow.
Tech Apprentice
Just building up the Mp9 TKI3 now. The rod ends are a complete and utter ball ache to do. Any easy tips, as my fingers are killing me trying to do this manually!
My diffs didn't have much side to side play within the housing, so I didn't use many if any shims for that, but there was just a little slop between the gear. I did notice that the pinioin gears didn't make full contact against the diff gear. I shimmed the pinion gear by sliding shims (from KYO96643) on the pinion shaft before putting the shaft through the bearings. The shims fit perfect over the shaft and only touch the inner race of the bearing, not the seals. Since the pinion's gear have a wider diameter the more it gets shimmed toward the diff gear, the tighter it gets, which takes out the little bit of slack that was there. A little unconventional, but now the teeth are making full contact and haven't had any problems since I did it numerous months ago. The diff spins true and smooth.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
the side of the ball end that has the shiny ring from the mold just visible around the orifice that you would insert the ball is the side you would wanna install the ball from , after you assemble the ball/end squeeze with medium heavy pressure on the sides of the rod end with the pliers , this will stretch the rod end a lil and provide for free suspension movement