Corally HMX
#181
[QUOTE=Kensei;10170263]- as to rear toe in: in the manual on page 7 it says 3 degrees toe in. On page 8 of the manual you can see that 2 degree en 0.5 degree wishbone mounts are used. So obviously I thought that that would be 2.5 degrees toe in. I asked Joeri Bal from Corally Holland in Dordrecht and he said it was 3 degrees. I stilll don't understand, but hey who the heck am I...?
Ok, I've got in my kit the 0.5 block and 2.0block for the rear, so it has 2,5 toe in.
- as to geardiff. For me it is more of a user friendly kind of thing. Never been a fan of balldiffs
Ok that is personal opinion ofcourse, didn't you informed by Corally Holland as well?
- swaybars: I always used them. You can go softer in shockoil and springs without losing too much corner speed
Then maybe that is an nice thing to get with the car.
Ok, I've got in my kit the 0.5 block and 2.0block for the rear, so it has 2,5 toe in.
- as to geardiff. For me it is more of a user friendly kind of thing. Never been a fan of balldiffs
Ok that is personal opinion ofcourse, didn't you informed by Corally Holland as well?
- swaybars: I always used them. You can go softer in shockoil and springs without losing too much corner speed
Then maybe that is an nice thing to get with the car.
#182
- as to rear toe in: in the manual on page 7 it says 3 degrees toe in. On page 8 of the manual you can see that 2 degree en 0.5 degree wishbone mounts are used. So obviously I thought that that would be 2.5 degrees toe in. I asked Joeri Bal from Corally Holland in Dordrecht and he said it was 3 degrees. I stilll don't understand, but hey who the heck am I...? The numbers on the inner hinge pin mounts are mm's from center of the block. If you have a 0.5 turned in on the front and a 1.5 turned out on the rear it is equal to 2.5 degrees of toe in. So the kit comes with a .5 and a 2.0 for the rear blocks. That is equal to 3 degrees of toe in. It would be nice to do the simple math and subtract the two to get your toe in, unforturnately it doesnt work this way.
- as to geardiff. For me it is more of a user friendly kind of thing. Never been a fan of balldiffs Corally is currently working on the gear diffs for the HMX. They have said to expect them in 1-2 months.
- as to springs. As I know it almost everybody, who races on tarmac/asphalt, uses a slightly softer spring in the back. I did so with my RDX and I am going to do so with the HMX I have been using a Tamiya spring kit.
- swaybars: I always used them. You can go softer in shockoil and springs without losing too much corner speed. Yes you do have to purchase the front and rear sway bar kits. Each kit comes with 3 different sized sway bars, the mounting hardware and 2 flanged ball bearings.
- as to bodyposts: Corally has the ones I am looking for. They use them on there 1/12th car. So I don't know if they are long enough for TC. Corally Holland is going to inform me on that. If they are too short I may be can use HPI. Would like to know which ones BJohnson is using. I am using xray front body posts. I have been using these for a long time.
So as to hop ups. It doesn't have to be that kind of a drama.
As said, I try to limit it to the geardiff and oil that goes with it, other bodyposts, softer springs in the rear and sway bars.
At first I will try a setup that is in the neighbourhood of what I used with the RDX. From there I can fine tune.
- as to geardiff. For me it is more of a user friendly kind of thing. Never been a fan of balldiffs Corally is currently working on the gear diffs for the HMX. They have said to expect them in 1-2 months.
- as to springs. As I know it almost everybody, who races on tarmac/asphalt, uses a slightly softer spring in the back. I did so with my RDX and I am going to do so with the HMX I have been using a Tamiya spring kit.
- swaybars: I always used them. You can go softer in shockoil and springs without losing too much corner speed. Yes you do have to purchase the front and rear sway bar kits. Each kit comes with 3 different sized sway bars, the mounting hardware and 2 flanged ball bearings.
- as to bodyposts: Corally has the ones I am looking for. They use them on there 1/12th car. So I don't know if they are long enough for TC. Corally Holland is going to inform me on that. If they are too short I may be can use HPI. Would like to know which ones BJohnson is using. I am using xray front body posts. I have been using these for a long time.
So as to hop ups. It doesn't have to be that kind of a drama.
As said, I try to limit it to the geardiff and oil that goes with it, other bodyposts, softer springs in the rear and sway bars.
At first I will try a setup that is in the neighbourhood of what I used with the RDX. From there I can fine tune.
#183
Tech Regular
Thnx
Xcellent info.
Does it matter if the 0.5mm and 1.5mm are in the front or the back of the wishbone?
XRay bodyposts in the front, you say.
In the back you also use the XRay front body mounts, I think.
Maybe you have a part number for me? Might that be 301322?
Thnx
Xcellent info.
Does it matter if the 0.5mm and 1.5mm are in the front or the back of the wishbone?
XRay bodyposts in the front, you say.
In the back you also use the XRay front body mounts, I think.
Maybe you have a part number for me? Might that be 301322?
Thnx
Last edited by Kensei; 01-15-2012 at 01:56 PM.
#184
Tech Adept
Used the car at the biggest indoor chamionships in the uk today. And i ran the car completley standard no mods off any kind , sweep exp30 were the control tyres , and i found it very easy to drive, im only a middle of the table driver but i improved ,comparing myself against people of my ability also drivers that normally finish ahead of me , i could drive away from them . The car i drove before this was the 417 . The only thing i dont like is the extended pinions but someone here has modded the layshaft so you can rearange the pulleys and use standard pinions but other than that the car is good .
#185
Used the car at the biggest indoor chamionships in the uk today. And i ran the car completley standard no mods off any kind , sweep exp30 were the control tyres , and i found it very easy to drive, im only a middle of the table driver but i improved ,comparing myself against people of my ability also drivers that normally finish ahead of me , i could drive away from them . The car i drove before this was the 417 . The only thing i dont like is the extended pinions but someone here has modded the layshaft so you can rearange the pulleys and use standard pinions but other than that the car is good .
do you race in stock? or mod? Great to hear that the car fits you more than the 417. You ran it total out of the box? And do you have more pictures of the modification of the motormount?
Greetings,
#186
Tech Adept
I havent done the mod to the layshaft yet. but its alloys you to rearange the pulleys so they are either side of the spur gear, which brings the spur closer to the motor and allows you to use standard length pinions, there is nothing wrong with the original but in my case i have already got a complete set of standard pinions so it save having to buy another set.if you go to corally .co.uk and scroll down you see the car with the white spur gear that has the mod done. It also allows the correct belt allignment to use the spec r gear diff.
#187
Tech Adept
BTW i race in stock 13.5 boosted
#188
I havent done the mod to the layshaft yet. but its alloys you to rearange the pulleys so they are either side of the spur gear, which brings the spur closer to the motor and allows you to use standard length pinions, there is nothing wrong with the original but in my case i have already got a complete set of standard pinions so it save having to buy another set.if you go to corally .co.uk and scroll down you see the car with the white spur gear that has the mod done. It also allows the correct belt allignment to use the spec r gear diff.
Raced this weekend with a box stock car with a option gear diff. The car was ok but my driving was not, finished 6th. Due to the flex I think the car needs some different setups but itīs fast.
#189
Tech Regular
#190
Tech Adept
I got my old 417 spec r gear diff in the hmx today , had to use shorter dogbones. but it works fine , might have shave a touch off the outer ridge of the pulley to use the rear roll bar, but the car was so good without roll bars i dont know if i'll fit them anyway, i also flipped the layshaft so the spur is closer to the motor, now i can use all my existing pinions. Had to fit a 37 tooth spool pulley to match the gear diff. This makes the original front belt too short so i have to change that.
#191
Nice to hear! Do you have a picture also with the 417gear diff? you indeed have to change the front spool. I hope corally comes with an geardiff of there own soon..
#192
I got my old 417 spec r gear diff in the hmx today , had to use shorter dogbones. but it works fine , might have shave a touch off the outer ridge of the pulley to use the rear roll bar, but the car was so good without roll bars i dont know if i'll fit them anyway, i also flipped the layshaft so the spur is closer to the motor, now i can use all my existing pinions. Had to fit a 37 tooth spool pulley to match the gear diff. This makes the original front belt too short so i have to change that.
A 189 mm Xray rear belt works great.
#193
Tech Adept
Im going to order the belt tommorow , i was looking at it i suppose you could change either the front or rear belt, i just randomly chose the front one , if there is any specific reason that you changed the rear belt instead, please tell me. To flip the layshaft and gears you have to cut a slot in the chassis for the spur gear closer to the motor mount , then just flip the layshaft over turn the internal shaft around so the side with the spacer is on the motor side, then just re shim it so neither side rubs. with the 37 t pulleys the internal gear ratio becomes 1.76:1. Ill try and put pic up . can anyone tell me why they built this car with an internal ratio of 1.71 when most other manufactures try to get as close as possible to 2.0
#194
#195
Tech Adept
These are some pictures of what ive done i have not put the car back together yet but it will give you an idea . The spur gear looks crooked in the pics thats just because its not bolted in, i just put it in position to show. The other car had the spur in between the the other two pulleys but im not sure how to do that.But this achieves the same purpose.