MRC / Academy SB Sport 4wd Buggy
10-07-2004, 04:40 PM
#857
Tech Addict
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Coming to you LIVE from somewhere in my head
Posts: 508
Well damn, sorry I asked.
10-08-2004, 02:00 AM
#858
Tech Rookie
Sorry to pester you again DA_Cookie_Monsta.
Seeing as you are a font of knowledge (a point someone here seems to have missed), any idea what the internal drive ratio is of the XX4? Just so I can figure out what I'm currently running and apply that to the new car as a starting point.
Must find out how many teeth the purple spur was on the XX4 too..........
Seeing as you are a font of knowledge (a point someone here seems to have missed), any idea what the internal drive ratio is of the XX4? Just so I can figure out what I'm currently running and apply that to the new car as a starting point.
Must find out how many teeth the purple spur was on the XX4 too..........
10-08-2004, 05:27 AM
#860
DCM : Take it easy on the guy.
If you have any luck with Tokyo hobbies post what they say the parts will cost, etc. Has Academy announced a part number yet for the SB Pro or any of the "Pro" Parts? ( chassis etc )
As for gearing for a stock motor, it really depends on your track. I was finding that my Reedy 19T Quad Mag which I would gear like a torquey stock motor was doing about 22 to 23 tooth pinion. so I figure you start on say a 22 and go from there. Try to gear it for your longest straight. Using this method I have had good sucess. Also, don't be scared to cut out some cooling vents in the shell. I have also heard from rickster that not running the included heatsink helps airflow as the heatsink can block your cooling holes.
If you have any luck with Tokyo hobbies post what they say the parts will cost, etc. Has Academy announced a part number yet for the SB Pro or any of the "Pro" Parts? ( chassis etc )
As for gearing for a stock motor, it really depends on your track. I was finding that my Reedy 19T Quad Mag which I would gear like a torquey stock motor was doing about 22 to 23 tooth pinion. so I figure you start on say a 22 and go from there. Try to gear it for your longest straight. Using this method I have had good sucess. Also, don't be scared to cut out some cooling vents in the shell. I have also heard from rickster that not running the included heatsink helps airflow as the heatsink can block your cooling holes.
10-09-2004, 03:47 PM
#863
I have been running the heat sink since I had the vehicle. I felt it did some good but I plan to try it without, but, since I am moving to ND and its getting cooler, may not be necessary.
Well Guys, I am off, loading up the truck tommorrow and heading out so take it easy, will check back and keep those losi's in the rear view!
Well Guys, I am off, loading up the truck tommorrow and heading out so take it easy, will check back and keep those losi's in the rear view!
10-12-2004, 10:49 AM
#864
Tech Initiate
this is my first 4wd i wanted to know if someone could tell me how you know when your diffs are shimmed up porperly. i dont want it to loose or too tight how much play should there be? similiar to that of pinion and spur??? thanks
10-12-2004, 10:57 AM
#865
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Right, to shim the diff, the process I use is this
1. Put diff on its own in the gearbox housing and cehck for sideplay.
2. Shim the diff on the opposite side of the crownwheel so there is no side play.
3. Place on Stub Axle shim behind the drive pinion to space it into the gearbox a little more.
4. Place diff in gearbox.
5. Hold pinion so it doesn't move, then check to see if the crownwheel/pinio mesh has any play.
6. If there is play, remove one shim from the far side of diff across to the crownwheel side, this closes the mesh. Do this till there is very little backlash, then add one more, there should be no backlash then.
7. Put small amount of lube on the gears (just a light smear, no more).
8. Fit gearbox top and tighten down, always rotating the diff, if you feel it get tight, just back the screws of 1/8th of a turn.
Run car.
If you get any clicking under hard acceleration, you may need to move one more shim across on the offending diff.
If you get a little clicking under breaking, don't worry about it.
1. Put diff on its own in the gearbox housing and cehck for sideplay.
2. Shim the diff on the opposite side of the crownwheel so there is no side play.
3. Place on Stub Axle shim behind the drive pinion to space it into the gearbox a little more.
4. Place diff in gearbox.
5. Hold pinion so it doesn't move, then check to see if the crownwheel/pinio mesh has any play.
6. If there is play, remove one shim from the far side of diff across to the crownwheel side, this closes the mesh. Do this till there is very little backlash, then add one more, there should be no backlash then.
7. Put small amount of lube on the gears (just a light smear, no more).
8. Fit gearbox top and tighten down, always rotating the diff, if you feel it get tight, just back the screws of 1/8th of a turn.
Run car.
If you get any clicking under hard acceleration, you may need to move one more shim across on the offending diff.
If you get a little clicking under breaking, don't worry about it.
10-14-2004, 09:44 AM
#866
sb pro?
what do you guys reckon about it, is it worth the exra cost?
10-14-2004, 09:46 AM
#867
Tech Rookie
Yes - definitely.
Just waiting for them to reach the UK so I can get my hands on one.
Just waiting for them to reach the UK so I can get my hands on one.
10-14-2004, 01:46 PM
#869
sb pro
hog, you can preorder them from fusionhobbies.com or from evolutionracingproducts.net. i think that it is cheaper on evolution though.
10-15-2004, 02:58 PM
#870
Originally posted by Cain
DCM : Take it easy on the guy.
If you have any luck with Tokyo hobbies post what they say the parts will cost, etc. Has Academy announced a part number yet for the SB Pro or any of the "Pro" Parts? ( chassis etc )
As for gearing for a stock motor, it really depends on your track. I was finding that my Reedy 19T Quad Mag which I would gear like a torquey stock motor was doing about 22 to 23 tooth pinion. so I figure you start on say a 22 and go from there. Try to gear it for your longest straight. Using this method I have had good sucess. Also, don't be scared to cut out some cooling vents in the shell. I have also heard from rickster that not running the included heatsink helps airflow as the heatsink can block your cooling holes.
DCM : Take it easy on the guy.
If you have any luck with Tokyo hobbies post what they say the parts will cost, etc. Has Academy announced a part number yet for the SB Pro or any of the "Pro" Parts? ( chassis etc )
As for gearing for a stock motor, it really depends on your track. I was finding that my Reedy 19T Quad Mag which I would gear like a torquey stock motor was doing about 22 to 23 tooth pinion. so I figure you start on say a 22 and go from there. Try to gear it for your longest straight. Using this method I have had good sucess. Also, don't be scared to cut out some cooling vents in the shell. I have also heard from rickster that not running the included heatsink helps airflow as the heatsink can block your cooling holes.
just look at the pro and it look great.