3LikesXray T4 2016
03-17-2017, 02:10 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
10-25-2015, 02:40 PM
#181
At least that is how I understand it..
Seth
10-25-2015, 06:00 PM
#182
I think it's a personal preference, not a 'rule'.
10-25-2015, 09:21 PM
#183
I doubt your average driver could even tell the difference in std and graphite arms, I think if your suspension ie. Shocks are doing there job and your setup is correct for the type of track your running on the most your gona have to worry about is one breaking easier than the other, honestly Ive never broken a arm, C hubs yes. I have both types of arms and theres not much difference in the 2 that I feel by attempting to bend them by hand that your gonna notice from a car that weighs around 1400 grams. If your experiencing traction problems, I highly doubt changing from 1 arm to the next is gona correct the problem.
10-26-2015, 02:42 AM
#184
I doubt your average driver could even tell the difference in std and graphite arms, I think if your suspension ie. Shocks are doing there job and your setup is correct for the type of track your running on the most your gona have to worry about is one breaking easier than the other, honestly Ive never broken a arm, C hubs yes. I have both types of arms and theres not much difference in the 2 that I feel by attempting to bend them by hand that your gonna notice from a car that weighs around 1400 grams. If your experiencing traction problems, I highly doubt changing from 1 arm to the next is gona correct the problem.
But of course, there's only one way to truly tell, and that's try both.
10-29-2015, 05:01 PM
#185
I just bought a kit and excited to try out Xray coming from Tamiya. I looked on the first post and did not see any updates, clues, tricks etc like on some other threads. I also read the short Petitrc build article.
Without reading all 13 pages which I am sure I will do anyways, any watch outs or cool bits of info that are need to know on this kit?
Without reading all 13 pages which I am sure I will do anyways, any watch outs or cool bits of info that are need to know on this kit?
10-29-2015, 05:14 PM
#186
I've just done exactly the same. TRF > Xray
I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.
- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.
That's all I can think of at the moment!
I've built two 16's in the past couple of weeks now.
- very few shims required compared to TRF, but still good to use some on the driveshafts on the inside
- don't use the diff O Ring
- watch out for little bits of swarf in the threads. This is a little disappointing on the first kit, hopefully mine was a one off (two locations) as it wasn't present on the second.
- ball studs are mug tighter than Tamiya. Best to insert the stud into the plastic turnbuckle end and THEN screw into the bulkheads etc. Easier than if you snap on after.
- with the servo saver, again, tighter than Tamiya. Assemble the two plastic halves and then snap on the springs. Almost impossible to get the springs on and then combine the two plastic halves.
- for the roll bars, insert the bearings into the bulkheads and then thread the bars through (followed by the orange holders). Do this before putting on turnbuckles for ease.
That's all I can think of at the moment!
10-29-2015, 07:41 PM
#189
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I have found the graphite arms to provide more grip and be more stable than the standard arms.
Whilst I cant explain when it was cold and I did a back to back the difference in feel was small and lap time difference was minimal.
When it was hot the difference between standard and graphite in feel was considerable and graphite was a touch faster and more consistent.
On a hot outdoor track if there are any bumps in particularly mid corner with graphite arms the car is more stable and just feels more locked in.
Possibly flex in the standard arms creating binding under load?
10-29-2015, 09:26 PM
#190
That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.
If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.
Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
10-30-2015, 02:56 AM
#191
10-30-2015, 06:13 AM
#193
Stormer carries the full line of Hudy oils.
I believe Xray changed the branding on their cst oils to Hudy.
10-30-2015, 07:25 AM
#194
That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.
If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.
Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.
Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
Last edited by cplus; 10-30-2015 at 07:48 AM.
10-30-2015, 07:40 AM
#195
I assume you're not building a new car, otherwise you'd have the manual. Even so, you can still download it off the web.
That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.
If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.
Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.
That out of the way, I think he's referring to the large, very thin o-ring that seals the two diff case halves. It's a PITA to put back if it has been used before.
If you have a new kit (or just a new diff set - you should have the instruction sheet that comes with it, though) you can use it, but it makes no difference to keeping liquids in provided you do up the screws correctly and use a good (preoiled) gasket.
Either way, you won't be able to reuse it after you first open the diff for maintenance. It expands just enough that you can't get it back in and if you insist you're liable to smoosh it somewhere between the two diff case halves and give yourself a lot of trouble you can do without.