80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
02-21-2014, 08:50 AM
So i had my first race ever on the dex210 and it was on carpet i used a setup from petit under the name Matt which is very similar to just about all other carpet setups i had read, anyway i could not stop the traction rolling i put the stock springs back in and it was better but still no fun to drive with the slow corner speed i had to use to avoid rolling over, i have since read about tire prep about gluing the outside tirewall and sanding the outer edge pins off do you think that alone will solve my traction rolling issues or is there any setup changes that will help? i was using scrubs on front holeshot2 rear
02-21-2014, 08:52 AM
Swaybars ?
02-21-2014, 09:10 AM
So i had my first race ever on the dex210 and it was on carpet i used a setup from petit under the name Matt which is very similar to just about all other carpet setups i had read, anyway i could not stop the traction rolling i put the stock springs back in and it was better but still no fun to drive with the slow corner speed i had to use to avoid rolling over, i have since read about tire prep about gluing the outside tirewall and sanding the outer edge pins off do you think that alone will solve my traction rolling issues or is there any setup changes that will help? i was using scrubs on front holeshot2 rear
I honestly don't know how his car drives but just by looking at his setup sheet I can tell I'd hate it. First, and this is a HUGE red flag to me, if the front shocks have more total piston hole area and the front oil weight is higher than the rear, it's crap. This is a very VERY common mistake. Even most pros make it. It is the result of a misunderstanding of how pack relates to piston speed and shock length.
He is clearly trying to run a very low roll center in the front with a higher roll center in the rear. He is running a shorty battery all the way back. With more weight rearwards, he is going to need more roll stiffness but there is a neat phenomenon with the greater front nose kick of 2wd cars that once you get too soft in the suspension, the front will unload on power out of corners no matter what. For carpet, grip isn't lacking. You are proving that with traction rolling.
I'd shift the battery all the way forwards and change to MM3. Run 0 rear kick. Move the front outer hole camber link location to #2. Leave the back alone. Reverse his pistons front to rear. You want the larger holes in back. Adjust the oil accordingly. You will need to balance the spring rates and shock oils. See the tuning with camber links thread for info. Reduce the front caster to 20 degrees. I have no idea why anyone would ever run 30 degrees except on loose dirt with inline steering. That's the only time.
That should get you closer but you'll still need to fine tune things.
02-21-2014, 09:43 AM
The fact that the V2 is announced officially on their site isn't much of a thing considering how long it will most likely take for people to get kits. Not to mention spare parts... yes I'm still on about it.
02-21-2014, 10:17 AM
Question... I have a lot of weight up front with RM and really like how it is handling and have got to where I have zero washers under the front inner camber links.
My question is, am I risking the ball stud tweaking over to the side and buggering things up? Or has anyone else run the inner links without the wide washer in there?
I wouldn't mind going to 0.5mm washer, but all I have found was a smaller washer that's the same circumference as the base of the ball stud so that's not doing anything for me. Is there a wide 0.5mm washer to space the camber links and give it a wider footprint with?
My question is, am I risking the ball stud tweaking over to the side and buggering things up? Or has anyone else run the inner links without the wide washer in there?
I wouldn't mind going to 0.5mm washer, but all I have found was a smaller washer that's the same circumference as the base of the ball stud so that's not doing anything for me. Is there a wide 0.5mm washer to space the camber links and give it a wider footprint with?
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD709043
02-21-2014, 10:19 AM
@fq06
Hope you can see the washer under my ball stud….
I haven't tried running with no shim….might be ok. I've done it with other cars. I'll try it on mine on Saturday…
PS I invited you out to SCVRC….
Dave
Hope you can see the washer under my ball stud….
I haven't tried running with no shim….might be ok. I've done it with other cars. I'll try it on mine on Saturday…
PS I invited you out to SCVRC….
Dave
02-21-2014, 10:38 AM
By the way I weighed my buggy last night and it was 1,611 grams with wheels and tires and the body on. Dimec chassis, shorty pack, all plastic spacers and hubs, standard servo, stock turnbuckles, aluminum cvd's.
When I build my V2 I will get it into 1520-1550 range with titanium turnbuckles, screws, a lighter battery and lighter wheels.
02-21-2014, 10:44 AM
I like the changes. At first I didn't see the point but now that I see a direct comparison I understand them. I think the standard 210 is a great car but the V2 is going to be nicer. I "might" be able to tolerate the body (at night, with my eyes closed) if a big fin is added from the back of the cab to the shock tower like on LeMans or older F1 cars.
Don't worry fred if you don't like it! I won't let my feelings get hurt :P
Cheers and happy friday!
Dave
02-21-2014, 10:57 AM
I'm going to guess late March for all the distributors to have them.
By the way I weighed my buggy last night and it was 1,611 grams with wheels and tires and the body on. Dimec chassis, shorty pack, all plastic spacers and hubs, standard servo, stock turnbuckles, aluminum cvd's.
When I build my V2 I will get it into 1520-1550 range with titanium turnbuckles, screws, a lighter battery and lighter wheels.
By the way I weighed my buggy last night and it was 1,611 grams with wheels and tires and the body on. Dimec chassis, shorty pack, all plastic spacers and hubs, standard servo, stock turnbuckles, aluminum cvd's.
When I build my V2 I will get it into 1520-1550 range with titanium turnbuckles, screws, a lighter battery and lighter wheels.
As for parts, Tower still says early april for the spare parts, and mid-march for the kit itself.
02-21-2014, 11:19 AM
are you guys running stock class ? is that why you want to lighten the car as much as possible?
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave
02-21-2014, 11:32 AM
are you guys running stock class ? is that why you want to lighten the car as much as possible?
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave
It's a never ending battle lol. Right now I'm pricing out titanium screws for the rear end of the car to even out the weight a bit more. It's burning a hole in my pocket, but I love this little car.
02-21-2014, 12:09 PM
That may move RC more than I want so I may be going back to no washer but I guess worst case is I have to buy a new tower if I wreck and tear up that hole. I will try it though, I would think having that extra width would help distribute the side load in a crash. I did run t like that for the last few hours of a practice day and no issues but I didn't really have a good wreck to know.
Don't ruin your tower for me
Thanx for the B-Day at the track invite! I will be making that... and probably racing the next day.
02-21-2014, 12:18 PM
Plastic towers are cheap! and you are welcome!
I bet you could find a washer that was like .25, or just use the small black durango washers. I think they are less than .5 mm. I will measure.
I bet you could find a washer that was like .25, or just use the small black durango washers. I think they are less than .5 mm. I will measure.
Last edited by 13Maschine; 02-21-2014 at 12:19 PM. Reason: spelling :)
02-21-2014, 12:19 PM
seems the durango small black washers are .55mm
02-21-2014, 12:22 PM
are you guys running stock class ? is that why you want to lighten the car as much as possible?
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave
I like to run mod so I usually opt for more durable parts. Steel drive shafts, and steel diff hubs etc. I have the alum hubs now too. I've found they keep the bearings in better alignment so they tend to last longer. Only time will tell. I will try to weigh them in comparison to the plastic so we have a reference point.
Thanks for sharing…
Dave