GM Brushless
#496
you don't have to take it out
you just need a bearing changing tool ... without this changing bearings is not recommended!
you just need a bearing changing tool ... without this changing bearings is not recommended!
#497
Tech Apprentice
Hello Martin.
I've got some problem with a nosram 2007 speedo in my 12 scale so I will receive a new gm 100 in shrink wrap for 12 scale
I've got some questions :
Should I use the cap with 4 cells ?
Is the gm 100 for 12 scale update and with 8 programs ?
wich one I must use in 12 scale 4 cells ?
And with a nosram motor 4.5 do I need to change the timing ?
I plan to use the sensor. Is it in gm product range a black cable from the gm to a lrp sensor type (I mean without using adaptor supply ....) ?
thanks
I've got some problem with a nosram 2007 speedo in my 12 scale so I will receive a new gm 100 in shrink wrap for 12 scale
I've got some questions :
Should I use the cap with 4 cells ?
Is the gm 100 for 12 scale update and with 8 programs ?
wich one I must use in 12 scale 4 cells ?
And with a nosram motor 4.5 do I need to change the timing ?
I plan to use the sensor. Is it in gm product range a black cable from the gm to a lrp sensor type (I mean without using adaptor supply ....) ?
thanks
#498
you should use the cap, or a 4700microF if you have one
it won't be updated
it will have 4 modes and we use mode 1 usually
you don't need to run sensor and this the motor timing doesn't matter
There is not really a noticable difference between sensored and sensorless with our escs and thus nobody uses sensorwires... messier and in 12th scale one more wire to store
but yes there are NEW black sensorwires available for those who want to run Stock with the new softwareupdate
Partnumber for 110mm is 2894.4
there are also longer wires but usually 110 should be long enough
it won't be updated
it will have 4 modes and we use mode 1 usually
you don't need to run sensor and this the motor timing doesn't matter
There is not really a noticable difference between sensored and sensorless with our escs and thus nobody uses sensorwires... messier and in 12th scale one more wire to store
but yes there are NEW black sensorwires available for those who want to run Stock with the new softwareupdate
Partnumber for 110mm is 2894.4
there are also longer wires but usually 110 should be long enough
#499
Hi martin
i've just bought a second hand GM120 how easy is it to repalce the wires as none of them are long enough for my car
thanks
i've just bought a second hand GM120 how easy is it to repalce the wires as none of them are long enough for my car
thanks
#500
when you want to replace the wires, please use the same typ of wires that are already soldered to the esc.
If you are very good in soldering you should be able to do it your self
If you are very good in soldering you should be able to do it your self
#501
Martin
A 12T delta=6.5T star ?
A 12T delta=6.5T star ?
#502
Yes pretty similar
#503
Hi Martin
If I run 10.5T with 7.4V lipo do I need to add any more capacitors? if so how and where do add them
thanks
Alan
If I run 10.5T with 7.4V lipo do I need to add any more capacitors? if so how and where do add them
thanks
Alan
#504
Depends on how many and which u use atm
#505
#506
GM 120 don't need do additoinal caps except for 5T hardcore tests :-)
#507
Thanks Martin great to hear
Alan
Alan
#508
Hey guys.
Some little update for you.
The Genius 90 is finally available: http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=7164
very similar specs to genius 120, but at a lot lower price: RETAIL 159€
slightly updated Genius 120:
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=7168
as you see in the pictures, the case has been changed toward a black one and there finally is a proper "oldskool" on-off-switch
other than that the ESC remains unchanged
Both ESCs feature the newest Firmware (4.9 atm)
There are also new sensorwires.
All Black equiped with better connectors -> less likely to break
and thicker wires (also all black) -> no more broken wires due to an impact
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=2894.4
Don't bother the picture, they are all black :-)
and there is a new bec-cable (ESC-to-RX)
all black, 5cm
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=2894.15
Stock racing HOW-TO
firmware 0.x
Most likely you will want to use mode number 6 with the following important values:
amplimit: 200 - 250
brakemin: 5%
brakemax and fullbrake should be set to the same value! (I use 95%)
frequency: #3 (16kc'/adj. current..)
reserved: 22 (new brake software feels a lot nicer)
maxreverse: 100
softstart: 50
powercurve: linear
auto throttle / brake: 0
timing w/o sensors: 30°
timing with sensors: 30°
voltage cut-off: 3.6V
firmware 4.x
amount of timing
least: mode 6/7, mode 3, mode 8 :most
even though all modes are programmed with timing set to 30/+30
mode 6/7 should be programmed as mentioned above
mode 8 has A LOT of timing an thus huge amounts of RPM
BUT most motors drop of after 3 laps or even less when using this mode, so be careful!
mode 3 is originally a modified mode
to make it Stock-ready do the following:
- pick mode 8 via transmitter
- read out the esc data with the PC-software (v1.1.5 or higher required)
- go to advanced settings
- pick mode 3 in the "controler mode" flipdown
There will be a window showing up saying: sure you want to copy the
background information?
click "yes",
then klick "no" when it asks you if you want to set the standard values
finally click ok as you know you will use the same batteries as before :-)
- send data to the esc
- read out the data once again
- read through the log-window (just received data of course) and check if
value 33, activediodemaxtime is now set to 110 (original value is 50)
if you successfully set the new value: congratulations
if you still have the value set to 50, simply try again
Some general information:
Brushless is opposite to brushed:
less frequency = softer, less precision and power
more frequency = more punch/precision
I usually use 8kc, but or stockracing 16kc sometimes gives you just the little extra bit :-)
I personally always use mode 6 or 3
mode 8 is too much for 9.5T racing
5cell with 9.5T GM Purple motor geared to 5.1 - 5.6 on any track (indoor carpet of course, as it's the indoor season right now) using mode 6
for mode 3, multiply your gearing with 1.2!
i.e mode 6 gearing = 5.1
mode 3 gearing = 6.1
of course all stock modes require sensor wires to make use of the software timing
the speedpassion motor can be geared pretty similar to the gm purple
gm blue need to be geared around 0.2 shorter
lrp 9.5 needs to be geared around 1.1 shorter
cs 9.5T needs the motortiming to be turned clockwise to nearly middle of the c-solder tab
I hope this helps all them stockracers out there to do it like me and my teammates do :-) rule the straightaway and try to not lose too much in the infield *g*
one more VERY IMPORTANT thing:
you can see your transmitter values in the "advanced settings"
fulltrottle should be around 1.9xxx ms
neutral around 1.4xxx ms
fullbrake around 1.1xxx ms
if your values are far off, you need to do a new transmitter setup!
and use the transmitter to switch between modes, not the pc software if not specificly mentioned (like above)
otherwise you'll copy program data from one mode to another
Some little update for you.
The Genius 90 is finally available: http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=7164
very similar specs to genius 120, but at a lot lower price: RETAIL 159€
slightly updated Genius 120:
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=7168
as you see in the pictures, the case has been changed toward a black one and there finally is a proper "oldskool" on-off-switch
other than that the ESC remains unchanged
Both ESCs feature the newest Firmware (4.9 atm)
There are also new sensorwires.
All Black equiped with better connectors -> less likely to break
and thicker wires (also all black) -> no more broken wires due to an impact
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=2894.4
Don't bother the picture, they are all black :-)
and there is a new bec-cable (ESC-to-RX)
all black, 5cm
http://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=2894.15
Stock racing HOW-TO
firmware 0.x
Most likely you will want to use mode number 6 with the following important values:
amplimit: 200 - 250
brakemin: 5%
brakemax and fullbrake should be set to the same value! (I use 95%)
frequency: #3 (16kc'/adj. current..)
reserved: 22 (new brake software feels a lot nicer)
maxreverse: 100
softstart: 50
powercurve: linear
auto throttle / brake: 0
timing w/o sensors: 30°
timing with sensors: 30°
voltage cut-off: 3.6V
firmware 4.x
amount of timing
least: mode 6/7, mode 3, mode 8 :most
even though all modes are programmed with timing set to 30/+30
mode 6/7 should be programmed as mentioned above
mode 8 has A LOT of timing an thus huge amounts of RPM
BUT most motors drop of after 3 laps or even less when using this mode, so be careful!
mode 3 is originally a modified mode
to make it Stock-ready do the following:
- pick mode 8 via transmitter
- read out the esc data with the PC-software (v1.1.5 or higher required)
- go to advanced settings
- pick mode 3 in the "controler mode" flipdown
There will be a window showing up saying: sure you want to copy the
background information?
click "yes",
then klick "no" when it asks you if you want to set the standard values
finally click ok as you know you will use the same batteries as before :-)
- send data to the esc
- read out the data once again
- read through the log-window (just received data of course) and check if
value 33, activediodemaxtime is now set to 110 (original value is 50)
if you successfully set the new value: congratulations
if you still have the value set to 50, simply try again
Some general information:
Brushless is opposite to brushed:
less frequency = softer, less precision and power
more frequency = more punch/precision
I usually use 8kc, but or stockracing 16kc sometimes gives you just the little extra bit :-)
I personally always use mode 6 or 3
mode 8 is too much for 9.5T racing
5cell with 9.5T GM Purple motor geared to 5.1 - 5.6 on any track (indoor carpet of course, as it's the indoor season right now) using mode 6
for mode 3, multiply your gearing with 1.2!
i.e mode 6 gearing = 5.1
mode 3 gearing = 6.1
of course all stock modes require sensor wires to make use of the software timing
the speedpassion motor can be geared pretty similar to the gm purple
gm blue need to be geared around 0.2 shorter
lrp 9.5 needs to be geared around 1.1 shorter
cs 9.5T needs the motortiming to be turned clockwise to nearly middle of the c-solder tab
I hope this helps all them stockracers out there to do it like me and my teammates do :-) rule the straightaway and try to not lose too much in the infield *g*
one more VERY IMPORTANT thing:
you can see your transmitter values in the "advanced settings"
fulltrottle should be around 1.9xxx ms
neutral around 1.4xxx ms
fullbrake around 1.1xxx ms
if your values are far off, you need to do a new transmitter setup!
and use the transmitter to switch between modes, not the pc software if not specificly mentioned (like above)
otherwise you'll copy program data from one mode to another
#509
#510
pretty much yeah
it is reversible, but only when a factory reset is done
it is reversible, but only when a factory reset is done