Mabuchi540

I certainly see what your getting at but I assume that the book says 2mm for a reason and if I alter it to start with I won't be able to tell if the "kit setup" works for me.

So far all I've changed is from 3d toe in at the rear to 1d as I like to have the option of making it more stable if needs be instead or the other way around.

You know change one thing at a time and all that. And if did do that surely I'd have to do the same to the rear to give similar handling to the kit setup.

But as there is no guide on how to use the droop gauge a umm "usual ideal" amount of thread to have sticking out the bottom would be appreciated as a starting point for 540 stock.

I have seen over time various amounts mentioned but a good ball park starting point would be great (assuming kit springs and oil)

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

FOR SELL....maybe?

Hey guys I have a Yoke SSG that has been just sitting and stared at for about 6mths..... well, let me just tell you what upgrades it has-
From SPEEDTECH R/C-
Graphite Lower Suspension Arms Frt./ Rear- 19.98
Graphite Front Steering Blocks and Rear Hub Carriers- 15.00
Graphite Transmission Cases- 21.98
Graphite Front Hub Carriers- 7.99
Graphite Servo Saver Parts- 6.00
One-way Assembly- 38.99
One-way Maintenance Kit- .99
Ti- Nitride Coated Shock Shafts- 16.99
Tobee Craft Aluminum Input Shaft Frt./Rear- 9.25
1/16 tungsten Carbide Thrust Balls- 8.50
Titanium Screw Set- 37.50
So all of this plus the cost of the kit (270.00), I'm about 450.00 into it and going nowhere fast. If I sell this, what could I reasonably expect for it? I might be persuaded to include the UNTOUCHED! (OOPS, I mean NOT RAN- of course I had to drool all over it when I first took it out of the box) Surikarn Edition 10x2 Peak Vantage Mod.
Any words of wisdom fellas ....

- JAyBEE

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I forgot to mention that of course I would include all of the 'spare' plastic parts from the kit

- JAyBeE

Tek Nickal

A lot . . . . . .?

Horatio

I've seen this before and the problem isn't rare.

It's almost certainly a binding CVD joint in the driveshaft. This problem can also break hubs with no warning due to extreme vibration. As it sticks, the driveshaft lifts the A arm up and down per every revolution.

Take the CVD apart, use some fine wet and dry (used wet) and sand down the barrel part of the joint. While your at it, also Sand down the hole where the barrel sits (or use a dremmel). Be sure to remove all traces of the black coating on the moving parts of the joint.

Also check that all the bearings seated correctly and smooth, also that the diff is seated and shimmed correctly and that everything else is as per the manual.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Howdy yall

Gepetto, I think he's talking about the dogbone pins that go into the diff outdrives... Not the "CVD" part

Mabuchi 540... please answer this question and we'll be able to help you out... Have you disassembled ALL FOUR universal joints and compared FRONT AND REAR drive axles? not the bones, the drive axles... ie what you screw the wheel nut on... front and rears are different... and (like most people have already mentioned already) it seems that you have "crossed" them, you have one front and one rear on the front... HAve you litterally pulled it all apart and checked you didn't mix front and rear?

I doubt it's a manufacturing issue... rather an assembly one All these parts are molded, and molds don't really outpur grossly out-of-specs parts... they're either BAD or GOOD, but not in between (1mm too short)...

other suggestion: you have mixed up hinge pin holes and retaining screws' on the A-arm... this would be a very nice one

My advice: disassemble and start from scratch... don't just measure stuff that's already assembled, calipers are useless at this stage.

And let us know how it goes!

Later,
Paul

ritchie

ok so don't mess with the droop screws. build the shocks using the manual and but them on. that will at least get the arms close to level and cure your problem.

agower

paul i think hes saying that as the are binding that they are not straightening out properly so are staying slightly bent which wil make them shorter and would explain the differnce in angle of the driveshafts in the picture.

A Gower

Horatio

Definitely check the CVD action. If it's not nice and free, the slightest binding will cause the CVD to FRICTION WELD together. Don't wait til that happens cos it's major pain in the butt.

The seized CVD issue can occur to either front or rear driveshafts, causing numerous problems including those mentioned. In particular - lifting of the A arm and fouling of the Blue diff out ring.

This problem has occured to every example of the SSG I've seen - perhaps racing indoors on carpet really stresses the CVDs. Whatever the reason - manufacturing or otherwise (best not go there!! ) it's easily solved, just as I've described in my earlier post/s.

I'm assuming that you're using the correct axles etc, that you've got the bearings sitting properly in their respective housings and that the diffs are shimmed correctly.

Mabuchi540

All the cvd's are turning smoothly and yes I have the right ones in the right places (front in the front rear in the rear).

How about if I put it this way, screwing in the droop set screw so 3mm is sticking out of the bottom of the A arm (instead of kit 2mm setting) cures the problem but I shouldn't have to do that (on the assumption they knew what they were doing when the wrote the instructions)

I've even swapped the front dogbones left to right and it still does it only on the left hand side when the screw is 2mm not 3mm.

baih

can you take pics of your car and post them. it might be easier to see whats happening.

agower

try swapping the front and rear diffs over to see if you have a bad outdrive

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Are Titanium hinge pins available for the SD/CGM?

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hi Mabuchi.

Stop messing with the droop screws by eye. There's (should be?) a droop gauge in the kit.

here's a couple of things that could help.

1) Check if you have a similar assymetry on the rear. Do you? if yes... well, I know what it is

2) Try swapping left and right components until you locate the culprit. Try first with the whole steering assembly (axle + knuckle + UJ and all that's attached to it). If the problem moves to the other side, then it's located on these parts you just moved. Keep using the same methodology, but with a subset of these parts until you find the problem. Else, it's located on the parts you haven't rotated. start from there.

3) take two rims and screw them on the car (ie tighten the wheel nut). This could help a potentially not seated bearing get in place in the knuckle.

4) if all else fails, I'll buy your yoke for $100, cuz I'm sure it's an assembly issue

Later
Paul

PS1: we keep talking about CVD's and dogbones here... I think sometimes all this stuff is misleading... let's just use "dogbone" (the long part that goes in the diff outdrive) and "wheel axle" (what you screw the wheelnut on) to make our lives easier... because I still haven't understood whether or not you've pulled both wheel axles apart, without the dogbones, off the car... I'm only talking about the wheel axles here, they have a different shape front and rear, although they (might) have the same overall length... so your calipers might tell you they're the same when they're not...

PS2: I've been running the SD SSG for a year now, carpet only, and never had that friction welding problem. I usually rebuild my CVD's with AE's black grease and blue loctite. I've broken my share of dogbones on hard hits, but it never friction welded any CVD. Sometimes the pin hole will be slightly bent on the hit, but a file usually shaves away the asperity it creates. I'm still using the original "cylinders" and allen screw in my UJ's... And my car was bought last summer ('03) so it sure ain't one of the latest ones!

Paul

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

mmmh... I don't think so... at least not from one of the "usual" brand... the stock ones are pretty tough and inexpensive!

later
Paul