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Old 10-06-2008, 09:29 PM
  #3766  
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Iam having so much fun racing electric tc thanks to all you guys helping me out, starting to loose interest on nitro onroad Do you guys use small spur for example 100t or lower for small to med size track and over 100t to med to large tracks with long straights or it doesnt matter as long I hit my fdr? If I go small spur would that makes my car faster in small technical track.
 
Old 10-06-2008, 09:55 PM
  #3767  
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I've never seen anyone change spur and pinion while holding the ratio constant to try to get a performance advantage.
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Old 10-07-2008, 09:18 AM
  #3768  
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Originally Posted by <PsOp>
My shocks is leaking all four, is that a common problem to xray cars, one of them I replace new body and buttom cap and still leaks. I had many rc cars before and not even one leaks or not this bad. Another question I've heard that you dont need to balance ORION lipo?
I just replaced the O-Ring part #971031 on my son's T2 shocks last night
and it doesn't leak anymore. As far as the Orion Lipos, I just balance them
once a month. According to Orion, you don't need to balance them but
I do it anyway just to play it safe!
Here's what you need for your leaking shocks:

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...45c7e25aa995da
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Old 10-07-2008, 03:27 PM
  #3769  
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Originally Posted by act2007
I just replaced the O-Ring part #971031 on my son's T2 shocks last night
and it doesn't leak anymore. As far as the Orion Lipos, I just balance them
once a month. According to Orion, you don't need to balance them but
I do it anyway just to play it safe!
Here's what you need for your leaking shocks:

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...45c7e25aa995da
Going to order some today.
 
Old 10-08-2008, 09:13 AM
  #3770  
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Originally Posted by <PsOp>
Iam having so much fun racing electric tc thanks to all you guys helping me out, starting to loose interest on nitro onroad Do you guys use small spur for example 100t or lower for small to med size track and over 100t to med to large tracks with long straights or it doesnt matter as long I hit my fdr? If I go small spur would that makes my car faster in small technical track.
As long as you can hit the desired gear ratio, I would use the larger spur just from an ease of maintenance perspective. The larger spurs make it easier to adjust the gear mesh since you can get to the motor screws easier through the big holes in the bigger spurs. Right now I'm using a 96 tooth PRS, and I almost can't tighten the rear motor mount screw. I have to a ball end allen wrench to just barely reach the rear screw. When I tried an 88 tooth spur in the spring, I had to tighten the front screw, remove both top decks and layshaft, tighten rear motor screw, and re-assemble.
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:23 AM
  #3771  
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Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.
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Old 10-09-2008, 07:47 AM
  #3772  
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Originally Posted by mtbboy
Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.
Are you having issues with the blocks at the edge of the chassis, or towards the center? I personally only used the inside blocks and some good tape to hold the pack in place. When putting your pack in, hold it at an angle to get it under the top deck & rear bulk head, and it should just drop in. Another issue you might be having is the slots for the batts are not beveled enough, which can also cause issues with the pack fitting. You definately should not have to remove the upper deck to get the pack in the car.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:36 PM
  #3773  
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How do you set up if you want more cornerspeed?

Last edited by <PsOp>; 10-15-2008 at 10:30 PM.
 
Old 10-16-2008, 08:22 PM
  #3774  
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Default Roll center.

Hey all.


When I,m running the low roll center on the rear arms is it normal for the arms to bind on the chassis or am I doing something wrong.

Dave.
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:11 AM
  #3775  
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Originally Posted by mtbboy
Hey all.


When I,m running the low roll center on the rear arms is it normal for the arms to bind on the chassis or am I doing something wrong.

Dave.
They should float freely, make sure your not rotating the holders while your tightening them to the bulkhead.
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:40 AM
  #3776  
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Could someone tell me how much weight do u have to add to the 007 when u go to lipo,and if all possible post a pic.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:04 AM
  #3777  
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Originally Posted by BIGDAN
Could someone tell me how much weight do u have to add to the 007 when u go to lipo,and if all possible post a pic.
With an Orion 3800 LiPo, I needed to add about 110 grams to make the 1415 minimum weight. I got some tungsten cylinders like these:
http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenround.htm

They weigh 3.2 oz each. I had a fellow racer bore the center to 7.5 mm to fit over the aluminum standoffs for the two top decks, and then shoe gooed them into place so they don't slide around. (I had to grind one of them down to get closer to the minimum weight, since they were both 3.2 oz (~89 grams each, 79 grams each after drilling the hole in the center). Be warned that tungsten is very hard (my buddy burned up 4 cobalt drill bits trying to drill them out, and had to use a carbide bit to get the job done). No pictures yet. Maybe later tonight.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:41 AM
  #3778  
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Originally Posted by mtbboy
Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.

Also, make sure you didn't use too long of a screw for the top deck where it attaches to the bulkhead that wraps over the rear-most cell. I know my description sucks, if you need a pic of the problem just PM me
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:42 PM
  #3779  
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I'm just getting back into the hobby and I purchased a used T207. I have a couple of questions regarding shocks.

1. I use to race xrays before I stopped racing. I disctincly remember that the shock cap nut had a notch because the shock cap had a notch in it. The shocks I have don't have a notch in the cap nut which causes the cap to screw on crooked. Do I have the wrong cap nuts?

2. How are you guys bleeding the shocks?
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:58 PM
  #3780  
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The notches are gone

To bleed i oil up to the top,place rubber on top allowing oil to spill over aply cap and tighten as a compress shaft into the shock body, just a touch of rebound a the top, if there is too much rebound allow more oil to bleed out...
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