R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-06-2008, 10:29 PM   #3766
<PsOp>
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Iam having so much fun racing electric tc thanks to all you guys helping me out, starting to loose interest on nitro onroad Do you guys use small spur for example 100t or lower for small to med size track and over 100t to med to large tracks with long straights or it doesnt matter as long I hit my fdr? If I go small spur would that makes my car faster in small technical track.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2008, 10:55 PM   #3767
Tech Master
 
adamge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Saskatoon,SK Canada
Posts: 1,654
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I've never seen anyone change spur and pinion while holding the ratio constant to try to get a performance advantage.
__________________
When someone is intent on excelling in an otherwise laudable manner, does he not desire to inflict pain on others by means of his exalted status and enjoy the envy he arouses? Is there not an anticipated delight in an artist's ability to defeat his artistic rivals, which heightens his euphoria in creation?
-Nietzsche
adamge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2008, 10:18 AM   #3768
Tech Addict
 
act2007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 701
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by <PsOp> View Post
My shocks is leaking all four, is that a common problem to xray cars, one of them I replace new body and buttom cap and still leaks. I had many rc cars before and not even one leaks or not this bad. Another question I've heard that you dont need to balance ORION lipo?
I just replaced the O-Ring part #971031 on my son's T2 shocks last night
and it doesn't leak anymore. As far as the Orion Lipos, I just balance them
once a month. According to Orion, you don't need to balance them but
I do it anyway just to play it safe!
Here's what you need for your leaking shocks:

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...45c7e25aa995da
act2007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2008, 04:27 PM   #3769
<PsOp>
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by act2007 View Post
I just replaced the O-Ring part #971031 on my son's T2 shocks last night
and it doesn't leak anymore. As far as the Orion Lipos, I just balance them
once a month. According to Orion, you don't need to balance them but
I do it anyway just to play it safe!
Here's what you need for your leaking shocks:

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...45c7e25aa995da
Going to order some today.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2008, 10:13 AM   #3770
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by <PsOp> View Post
Iam having so much fun racing electric tc thanks to all you guys helping me out, starting to loose interest on nitro onroad Do you guys use small spur for example 100t or lower for small to med size track and over 100t to med to large tracks with long straights or it doesnt matter as long I hit my fdr? If I go small spur would that makes my car faster in small technical track.
As long as you can hit the desired gear ratio, I would use the larger spur just from an ease of maintenance perspective. The larger spurs make it easier to adjust the gear mesh since you can get to the motor screws easier through the big holes in the bigger spurs. Right now I'm using a 96 tooth PRS, and I almost can't tighten the rear motor mount screw. I have to a ball end allen wrench to just barely reach the rear screw. When I tried an 88 tooth spur in the spring, I had to tighten the front screw, remove both top decks and layshaft, tighten rear motor screw, and re-assemble.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 06:23 AM   #3771
Tech Addict
 
mtbboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg. Igloo. Hockey. Beer.
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.
__________________
Team Associated Reedy factory team driver.
B5M Factory lite $ B44.3 Factory $ TC6.2 $ RC12R 5.1
Reedy 410 Speedos $ Reedy Mach Series motors
204 Raceway Winnipeg 1/10-1/8 Offroad. Owner.
mtbboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2008, 08:47 AM   #3772
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 3,121
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to A. Rhodes
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.
Are you having issues with the blocks at the edge of the chassis, or towards the center? I personally only used the inside blocks and some good tape to hold the pack in place. When putting your pack in, hold it at an angle to get it under the top deck & rear bulk head, and it should just drop in. Another issue you might be having is the slots for the batts are not beveled enough, which can also cause issues with the pack fitting. You definately should not have to remove the upper deck to get the pack in the car.
__________________
Retired from RC....
Quantum - St. Croix - Bass Pro Shops - XPS - Rapala
A. Rhodes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2008, 08:36 PM   #3773
<PsOp>
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

How do you set up if you want more cornerspeed?

Last edited by <PsOp>; 10-15-2008 at 11:30 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2008, 09:22 PM   #3774
Tech Addict
 
mtbboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Winnipeg. Igloo. Hockey. Beer.
Posts: 715
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Roll center.

Hey all.


When I,m running the low roll center on the rear arms is it normal for the arms to bind on the chassis or am I doing something wrong.

Dave.
__________________
Team Associated Reedy factory team driver.
B5M Factory lite $ B44.3 Factory $ TC6.2 $ RC12R 5.1
Reedy 410 Speedos $ Reedy Mach Series motors
204 Raceway Winnipeg 1/10-1/8 Offroad. Owner.
mtbboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2008, 10:11 AM   #3775
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,419
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hey all.


When I,m running the low roll center on the rear arms is it normal for the arms to bind on the chassis or am I doing something wrong.

Dave.
They should float freely, make sure your not rotating the holders while your tightening them to the bulkhead.
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2008, 08:40 AM   #3776
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
Default

Could someone tell me how much weight do u have to add to the 007 when u go to lipo,and if all possible post a pic.
BIGDAN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2008, 09:04 AM   #3777
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,661
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGDAN View Post
Could someone tell me how much weight do u have to add to the 007 when u go to lipo,and if all possible post a pic.
With an Orion 3800 LiPo, I needed to add about 110 grams to make the 1415 minimum weight. I got some tungsten cylinders like these:
http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenround.htm

They weigh 3.2 oz each. I had a fellow racer bore the center to 7.5 mm to fit over the aluminum standoffs for the two top decks, and then shoe gooed them into place so they don't slide around. (I had to grind one of them down to get closer to the minimum weight, since they were both 3.2 oz (~89 grams each, 79 grams each after drilling the hole in the center). Be warned that tungsten is very hard (my buddy burned up 4 cobalt drill bits trying to drill them out, and had to use a carbide bit to get the job done). No pictures yet. Maybe later tonight.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 8 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2008, 09:41 AM   #3778
Tech Elite
 
killingtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,658
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbboy View Post
Hey all.
As I,m sure its been covered here before.

Is there a trick to getting nimhs into the car with the battery retaining blocks in place other than removing the top deck every time?

Dave.

Also, make sure you didn't use too long of a screw for the top deck where it attaches to the bulkhead that wraps over the rear-most cell. I know my description sucks, if you need a pic of the problem just PM me
__________________
Mike Webb

rD Squared-MW Designs-C and R racing

Final Thoughts RC club R.I.P.
killingtime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2008, 04:42 PM   #3779
Tech Master
 
rcfiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Irvine, CA.
Posts: 1,380
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

I'm just getting back into the hobby and I purchased a used T207. I have a couple of questions regarding shocks.

1. I use to race xrays before I stopped racing. I disctincly remember that the shock cap nut had a notch because the shock cap had a notch in it. The shocks I have don't have a notch in the cap nut which causes the cap to screw on crooked. Do I have the wrong cap nuts?

2. How are you guys bleeding the shocks?
rcfiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2008, 07:58 PM   #3780
Tech Elite
 
Joel Lagace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,628
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The notches are gone

To bleed i oil up to the top,place rubber on top allowing oil to spill over aply cap and tighten as a compress shaft into the shock body, just a touch of rebound a the top, if there is too much rebound allow more oil to bleed out...
__________________
"Without Rules its just Backyard Bashing!"
www.rcottawa.com
Joel Lagace is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
XRAY T2'007 KyLayfield R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 01-19-2008 10:39 AM
Need Xray t2'007 parts edgaras R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 10-29-2007 04:11 AM
WTB/WTT: Xray T2 or T2'007 WheelNut R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 09-15-2007 06:02 PM
XRay T2'007 duckman996 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 18 02-06-2007 01:29 PM
Xray T2'007 US Edition fastzach R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 10-27-2006 04:03 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:22 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net