Castle Sidewinder ESC help
12-31-2008, 09:31 PM
#16
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It worked great with my trusty Reedy 19 Turn Mod. I had just skimmed the comm and replaced the brushes and it was still running on the standard ESC configuration. I only re-wired to high-power mode to use the 12 turn.
When I rewired it, the 19 Turn didn't work properly, nor the 25 turn Tamiya RZ, or the spankin-new 12 turn Putnum.
I've been running GP 3700's, matched and unmatched packs. They are getting older, but still hold a good charge. They are side-by-sides with good battery bars.
I use Deans plugs for the batteries. I have the original Castle wires on the esc, never opened it, and deans 12g wet noodles for the other wires. It's all good gear.
I don't know what makes a motor spin off-load, but not under load. I can only assume it is the ESC, becuase i've tried everything else.
When I rewired it, the 19 Turn didn't work properly, nor the 25 turn Tamiya RZ, or the spankin-new 12 turn Putnum.
I've been running GP 3700's, matched and unmatched packs. They are getting older, but still hold a good charge. They are side-by-sides with good battery bars.
I use Deans plugs for the batteries. I have the original Castle wires on the esc, never opened it, and deans 12g wet noodles for the other wires. It's all good gear.
I don't know what makes a motor spin off-load, but not under load. I can only assume it is the ESC, becuase i've tried everything else.
It might seem like the packs should be good enough but a 3700GP is back a few models so they would not be at full strength and under load I'm sure they will be strained alot when compared to a lipo pack.
It is process of elimination is what it comes down to.
12-31-2008, 09:54 PM
#17
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Yeah, I can't get hold of a lipo. Hardly anyone uses them around here.
The key for me really, is that it's happening with ANY motor. Regardless of the age of the packs, they still pushed the Tamiya and Reedy no problem with the old mode. I may have to wire it back the original way it was and see what happens.
The key for me really, is that it's happening with ANY motor. Regardless of the age of the packs, they still pushed the Tamiya and Reedy no problem with the old mode. I may have to wire it back the original way it was and see what happens.
12-31-2008, 11:36 PM
#18
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Yeah, I can't get hold of a lipo. Hardly anyone uses them around here.
The key for me really, is that it's happening with ANY motor. Regardless of the age of the packs, they still pushed the Tamiya and Reedy no problem with the old mode. I may have to wire it back the original way it was and see what happens.
The key for me really, is that it's happening with ANY motor. Regardless of the age of the packs, they still pushed the Tamiya and Reedy no problem with the old mode. I may have to wire it back the original way it was and see what happens.
Even if you can get a 4200 to 4600 NIMH pack I would try that but it should be a good highend matched pack just to see what happens for you.
My best guess is if your car works good with the stock wiring then to me its all about the voltage and how the speedo is trying to apply it to the motor.
01-01-2009, 12:13 AM
#19
Tech Master
Thread Starter
I think you are right. I just went out with a full charged pack and it ripped it up! It started playing up after 5 mins, and my guess is that's when the voltage began to drop off.
Looks like I need to save for some new packs. At least the boy can use the old packs on his car so it's not a total lost cause!
A 12 turn is a whole new world compared to a 19 turn! It's a BEAST!
Looks like I need to save for some new packs. At least the boy can use the old packs on his car so it's not a total lost cause!
A 12 turn is a whole new world compared to a 19 turn! It's a BEAST!
01-01-2009, 12:48 AM
#20
the lipo cut off is on.
don't be ashamed, your not the only one
don't be ashamed, your not the only one
01-01-2009, 12:59 AM
#21
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01-01-2009, 01:16 AM
#22
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Nah, it's off. I reprogrammed it 3 times over the last day to make sure of that stuff. Each time I set:
Voltage cut-off "none"
Motor type "brushed high power"
I don't have a castle link, but can easily hear the beeps!
I could try and have a cut-off and set it for "5" volts. Just in case. I dunno, fresh out of ideas. I need to get my hands on a new battery to make sure.
Voltage cut-off "none"
Motor type "brushed high power"
I don't have a castle link, but can easily hear the beeps!
I could try and have a cut-off and set it for "5" volts. Just in case. I dunno, fresh out of ideas. I need to get my hands on a new battery to make sure.
01-01-2009, 02:42 AM
#23
Tech Apprentice
I would make sure the gears on the motor are pushed down all the way. The whole car is screaming before you set it down then nothing has happened to me before with diffrent cars just because the gear isnt pushed all the way down on the pinion on the motor. Worth a shot, good luck
01-01-2009, 05:04 AM
#24
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Nah, it's off. I reprogrammed it 3 times over the last day to make sure of that stuff. Each time I set:
Voltage cut-off "none"
Motor type "brushed high power"
I don't have a castle link, but can easily hear the beeps!
I could try and have a cut-off and set it for "5" volts. Just in case. I dunno, fresh out of ideas. I need to get my hands on a new battery to make sure.
Voltage cut-off "none"
Motor type "brushed high power"
I don't have a castle link, but can easily hear the beeps!
I could try and have a cut-off and set it for "5" volts. Just in case. I dunno, fresh out of ideas. I need to get my hands on a new battery to make sure.
01-01-2009, 01:23 PM
#25
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Yep. I think the batteries aren't able to push to load through that is being wanted.
I guess the way the high-power mode is wired alows a lot more current to flow.
Hopefully Joe reads this and can confirm it, as i'm sure I am not the only one trying this.
I guess the way the high-power mode is wired alows a lot more current to flow.
Hopefully Joe reads this and can confirm it, as i'm sure I am not the only one trying this.
01-01-2009, 08:21 PM
#26
Tech Master
Thread Starter
OK, the plot thickens. Got the trusty volt meter out.
I had it running on the bench, and if I ease the throttle up, it's fine, and goes to about 6.6 volts at the motor full-tilt. Not bad.
When I just gun it, the voltage reads -0.53 volts. That's negative. The green light is solid on the ESC, but no go-go juice.
I took out one of the brushes, and put the meter on it again, don't know why. At rest it reads 5.1 volts. Full throttle 7.6 volts. Full brake 1.1 volts.
Don't know what all that means. Any electronics geniuses out there?
I had it running on the bench, and if I ease the throttle up, it's fine, and goes to about 6.6 volts at the motor full-tilt. Not bad.
When I just gun it, the voltage reads -0.53 volts. That's negative. The green light is solid on the ESC, but no go-go juice.
I took out one of the brushes, and put the meter on it again, don't know why. At rest it reads 5.1 volts. Full throttle 7.6 volts. Full brake 1.1 volts.
Don't know what all that means. Any electronics geniuses out there?
01-02-2009, 11:13 AM
#27
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Anyone have an idea?
Joe is saying send it back, but that is easier said than done from New Zealand. The cost of postage alone is near 1/2 the price of a 2nd hand GTX, let alone it will be gone for at least 3 weeks!
Not bitching at Castle, it's not their fault I live on an island in the middle of nowhere!
Joe is saying send it back, but that is easier said than done from New Zealand. The cost of postage alone is near 1/2 the price of a 2nd hand GTX, let alone it will be gone for at least 3 weeks!
Not bitching at Castle, it's not their fault I live on an island in the middle of nowhere!
01-02-2009, 11:49 AM
#28
Did you try changing the motor timing on the esc? Start power and timing have a huge effect on the brushless motors.
01-02-2009, 01:09 PM
#29
Do you have any punch-control setup? Try disabling that option.
You may have the motor overgeared. How about this. Let us know the gearing you have - pinion and spur.
Also, drop your pinion 3T and start there. Since you can get the motor screaming "off the ground" it sounds like overgearing and the brushed motor is just drawing too much power. When you go from 19T to 12T motors - you will definitely have to drop the gearing more.
Also, it "sounds like" in this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928926
That High Power mode is for 18T to 8T brushed motors, give or take. I'm not sure if 19T should be setup with High Power mode.
You may have the motor overgeared. How about this. Let us know the gearing you have - pinion and spur.
Also, drop your pinion 3T and start there. Since you can get the motor screaming "off the ground" it sounds like overgearing and the brushed motor is just drawing too much power. When you go from 19T to 12T motors - you will definitely have to drop the gearing more.
Also, it "sounds like" in this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=928926
That High Power mode is for 18T to 8T brushed motors, give or take. I'm not sure if 19T should be setup with High Power mode.
Last edited by jmcvicker; 01-02-2009 at 01:19 PM.
01-02-2009, 06:00 PM
#30
Tech Master
Thread Starter
I have the 12 turn geared at 21 teeth. It doesn't get too hot after 5 mins.
The manual says NOT to change motor timing on brushed motors. I may try it anyway, done everything else.
Punch control is disabled.
I may have a GTX I can borrow to eliminate everything but the esc....
The manual says NOT to change motor timing on brushed motors. I may try it anyway, done everything else.
Punch control is disabled.
I may have a GTX I can borrow to eliminate everything but the esc....