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Old 12-28-2008, 02:51 PM   #1
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Default Castle Sidewinder ESC help

I have just wired my brushed motor up to the "high power" wiring configuration as per the manual. It's a 19 Turn Mod, and has been running fine in the standard wiring configuration, I only changed it as i'm getting a 12 turn in the next few days, so it needs to be set up how i've done it now.

The problem is, when I hit the gas, it stutters 2 out of 3 times I try, and doesn't want ot budge. Every now and then it is fine, but usually just "blips" then doesn't go.

I find if I twitch the throttle up it will slowly let me get to full throttle. Obviously that's not much fun!

Any ideas? I was thinking the battery, but that wouldn't explain why it goes fine sometimes.

I am usling the standard 14 guage wire on the ESC as you can't change that without opening it up, and using Deans 12 guage for the other wire, so there should be no issues there.

The only thing I can think of, is I am using deans plugs, and the soldering of 3 wires into it isn't fantastic. They aren't loose, but it's near impossible to get 3 wires perfect at the same time!

HELP!
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:58 PM   #2
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I would start by charging your battery. I have the shuttering problem with my RC 18T Mini when the battery gets low.

That's where I would start.
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:30 PM   #3
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It's not that. Just charged up a fresh pack.

I found now that it works randomly. I got 5 minutes out of the pack before it started again. I'm starting to think it may be the motor. I only skimmed it 2 packs ago, but I might strip it down.
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:45 PM   #4
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What type of battery are you using? How good are the brushes and how small is the comm getting? A loose wire or bad soldering could also cause stuttering.


I have a servo (Futaba 9550) that causes my speedo to not set properly and to stutter. Soon as I take it out and use anyone of the many other servos I have it works great. Receiver loosing voltage is another reason.


These can all cause random stuttering.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:09 PM   #5
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+1 on cheaking the brushess and the com.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:18 PM   #6
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Is this a new out of the box speedo? If so it is set from the factory for their brushless motor. You have to use a Castle Link to change it to the brushed mode. If you have already done this then look at the motor comm.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:26 PM   #7
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It's not the speedo settings, i've been using it for about 3 months and I have it set up right.

WYD may be onto something with the servo or receiver voltage. It could be the wiring I think. If it's crap solder, there won't be enough power getting through.
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:52 PM   #8
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A good soldering iron is helpful when hooking up the 3 wires to one terminal for the high powered setup. I use 60/40 rosin core solder.
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:15 PM   #9
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OK, i'm getting p*ssed now. I still can't get this thing to work.

When I go full throttle with the car off the ground, it screams it's guts out, when I put it down and try to go, it just.... doesn't. It has a blip, then I can hear the motor whining but the car just creeps slowly. When I let off the throttle, i get a blip again.

I have tried:
1. Re-soldering everything. I even have the esc wires direct soldered to the motor wires now.
2. Changing motors. I have a brand new 12 Turn in it now.
3. Changing batteries. 4 different batteries.

This only happened when I wired it for high-power mode. Is the Sidewinder no good for this? If not, why the f*ck doesn't castle say on their site not to use it.

I am so p*ssed because I don't have another ESC to use, and I don't have lots of spare change as we are moving house soon, and have a baby on the way.

Any more ideas? Remember, it goes FINE when not under load.

I don't want to have to send it back as I got it from the US as no-one in NZ can supply them for a reasonable price. SO if I have to send it back I will lose weeks of use, as well as money for shipping. It's only 3 months old.
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:59 PM   #10
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If yu put it back in the regular non high powered mode does it still work?
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:05 PM   #11
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Haven't tried that yet. Means pulling out the motor and swapping it to the 19 turn agian, plus de-soldering and re-soldering it. Still, i'll try that just to make sure. Good idea.

Could motor capacitors have anything to do with it? i.e., if they're dead, will that affect it?
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
Haven't tried that yet. Means pulling out the motor and swapping it to the 19 turn agian, plus de-soldering and re-soldering it. Still, i'll try that just to make sure. Good idea.

Could motor capacitors have anything to do with it? i.e., if they're dead, will that affect it?
It is possible that bad capcitors could do that but not commen for that to happen. It is weird that it run with power under no load and then under load don't.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:32 PM   #13
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Yep, it's got me f*cked. It's not an interference issue, as the esc has a solid green light, meaning it's SUPPOSED to be pumping out full power, but it's just not happening.
I am absolutley stumped.
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:40 PM   #14
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If you hook it up high power brushed to other brushed motors does it work for you? I ran Stock and 19t all the time and I only ever ran the high powered setup with no issues.

Are you running lipo packs or NIMH pack and if they are NIMH are they matched packs or like sport style stick packs? What plugs do you use on your batteries?
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Old 12-31-2008, 09:56 PM   #15
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It worked great with my trusty Reedy 19 Turn Mod. I had just skimmed the comm and replaced the brushes and it was still running on the standard ESC configuration. I only re-wired to high-power mode to use the 12 turn.

When I rewired it, the 19 Turn didn't work properly, nor the 25 turn Tamiya RZ, or the spankin-new 12 turn Putnum.

I've been running GP 3700's, matched and unmatched packs. They are getting older, but still hold a good charge. They are side-by-sides with good battery bars.

I use Deans plugs for the batteries. I have the original Castle wires on the esc, never opened it, and deans 12g wet noodles for the other wires. It's all good gear.

I don't know what makes a motor spin off-load, but not under load. I can only assume it is the ESC, becuase i've tried everything else.
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