Blue Screw

What kinda Charger are you using? and what charging methods?

But Def worth spending the extra on good batts and not go with the all of a sudden companys that just got in the batt market and sell them cheap...

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Having trouble with my RevTech motor. Replaced my Duo 3 with the RevTech and ... nothing .... I have a Tekin RS Pro set to blinky and when I turn it on I get no lights. I tried recalibrating the speedo and after about 10 seconds all I get is a set of 3 lights moving across the speedo one time and then nothing more. Motor has what I consider to be a strong 'cog'.
Anybody having similar problems ?

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

http://www.trinityrc.net

We are offering free shipping in the USA from now till Sept 12th for the grand opening of our new site and web store on any orders 150.00 and up. Use the coupon code 3333.

Thanks
EA

Serzoni

iTrader: (13)

Check your soldering and make sure that solder hasn't bridged between any of the 3 poles.

Bubblehead

I have a pack that is starting to bloat and I could not figure out why, now I know. One of the guys at track told me he stored his packs fully charged with no problems so I started storing them fully charged.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

I would say its possible there is solder across the tabs? This will cause exactly what you described. The other thing is the screws holding the motor together being to tight. I have seen a motor that didnt have enough shims on the endbell end and when you tighten the motor can screws up the rotor hits the sensor board and shorts it out. Make sure this isnt happening as well.

EA

jag88

iTrader: (1)

I thought that maybe there was solder across the tabs too but there isn't and there is about .030 in and .030 out movement of the rotor.
Could the sensor board be bad and could I replace it with a board from one of my Duo motors ?
Thanks.

tnrccar

iTrader: (94)

I doubt the board is bad ... But you can try a duo3 board and it will work.

You can try it.

cocojam

iTrader: (47)

Chances are if you store them fully charged, they will bloat. But there could be some lucky exceptions. I consider SMC as a good brand and yet I fell victim to a bloated lipo because of my own doing. What more if this was done to a cheap and relatively unknown lipo brand. Even if you follow all the do's and dont's for lipo, they will still eventually bloat. But I am surprised at 2 cheap Turnigy Nanotech lipos I bought late last year just for the heck of testing them. I have been charging them at up to 3C (rated at 5C max) and have used them practically every weekend and so far no bloating.

mxrich

iTrader: (1)

Eric, longtime no see.This probably does not count these days but I am glad to see the revtech name has come back. Back in the day I ran mod offroad and did ok but hated the lack of control and weakness from the brushed motors we had. I gave up and went back to stock. Later a big race came up and I asked a local about which motor to use. He said "any 17T revtech" I told him they only had one back then, a single wind. So I used the one I had in 2wd buggy and 4wd swapping between heats. Holy crap! Both cars would carry the front wheels down the straight and was smooth as silk through the turns. I ended up winning a ton of races with that motor for a long long time until it would just not run anymore. Now it stays on the shelf here at the pc. If the new motors can match the quality of the old ones I will be a revtech racer again. See me later!

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Even if you have rotor end play, loosen all three motor screws and then re-tighten them till they just stop, absolutely no torque to the screws and give it a try.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

MAN, you nailed it !!!
I thought I had an $80.00 paper weight.
Any thoughts on why this works ?
Thanks.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Sorry I don't. Cost me some electronic components before I found this. I just blue lock-tite the screws with the no torque on them, and have about 20+ hours on the motor that way with no issues. I can't figure out where the bind is coming from as I've even inked the rotor to see if there is anything catching anywhere. I thought maybe it was can distortion but nothing is noticeably bent either.

If I ever figure it out I'll post it up, but in the mean time, run it loose and you should be good.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Could i use Medium/Purple thread locker instead of Blue? I have blown one of these motors already and don't plan on having my other 2 go the same way. Fastest stock motor i have driven before it blew though

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Any kind of thread locker just to keep the screws from turning out. I tried to run without some locktite and 2 of 3 screws backed off too much and caused the endbell to partially rotate and vibrate when being run.