elee32

iTrader: (18)

Put it all together with the shock shaft in and compress enough to keep pressure on the spring. I use a 3mm hex to push the shaft into the A arm and good to go.

Jethroz

iTrader: (54)

My evo came with 3 stamped on the shocks, but it looks like it was covered with black paint. Would those be some of the 6s labelled as 3s?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

just completed the RFG build/installation --- and i'm about to leave for the track (Jackson RC's last night race of the season). few notes from the install.

#1 make sure the set screws holding the AT21 balls onto the AM83 plate are flush


#2 the use of MM2 mode 4 (two flat heads + 1mm) can limit the choice of inner motor mount screws that attach the motor to the car

#3 the rear toe link position is changed, and requires the toe link to be lengthened. depending upon your toe link choice you might need a different tie rod. i've been using large 1-1/2" lunsford links so i have plenty of clearance.

#4 finally once installed the car only gained 3 grams of weight.

i'll take some videos of the RFG movement once i arrive at the track and can shake the car down....

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

#5 swap to a 10mm set screw and add 2mm of shim inbetween the AT21 and AM83. Without the shim, I couldn't get enough down travel with my suspension.

Madulla

No review yet??

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Any plans for a floating battery mount like the kyosho tf7 ???
What about a floating esc/rx mount ???

WesRaven

You laugh, but its true; the floating battery mount is already a thing. I do eagerly await the floating rx mount conversion though... the final thing keeping me from breaking through to the next level.

Seriously though, I look forward to having a need for these tweaks whenever I start running mod. It's pretty fun racing someone's science experiment.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

RFG point #6 make sure you adjust your body post height. I basically went up 2 clips.

#7 you'll need to reevaluate your setup in terms of rear toe link shims to make sure your getting the proper toe gain under compression

My first race day with the #RFG was funny enough in 17.5 as that is our big club race class, and it was the last night of a points series racing under the lights outdoors. The torque from a 17.5 motor is not great, but the trained eye can see the RFG work on the bench. On the track, once dialed in a bit, the car was super stable and had less tendency to break traction during hard acceleration in a tight S section heading onto our shortened straightaway.

Race results were round 2 & 3 TQ with a driver fail in the main while pushing to gap/loose car #2. I had too much rear bite in the main and really needed to better adjust for the cooler conditions. This hadn't been as much of a problem in the past, as the car was somewhat looser pre-RFG.

Racing finished close to midnight ... So I didn't get to try a mod motor in the car. For my next outing I'll make sure to do so.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

Received my MM2 and a few spares today, installed the MM2 and noticed I have about 1-2mm play on the shaft with the rear diff pinion on, not sure if it was there before hand, can't say I looked and everything seems to be rolling along smoothly etc? I think the inner screw to tighten the motor mount will need a ball driver as you have to get in there at an angle around the spur gear with the FFG, so not sure how you'd go really locking that one down?

Also the mount places a tab in front of the rear battery holder so the battery no longer sits flush with the chassis?

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

There should not be excessive play on the rear input shaft. Did you install the dt03 between the motor mount and bulkhead?

I would recommend don't use the arm with the battery mount, it will only cause problems

Oleg Babich

Please note that with MM2 motor mount that is a standard for Evo II/IIC and L2 cars we already have our own "floating system" for battery mounting.
With AM69 part installed the battery touches the chassis only along the front lower short edge of battery. The rear end of battery doesn't touch the chassis and is held by the motor mount through AM69 part.
So with such system of mounting the battery doesn't affect on the chassis flex.

Please note that it doesn't work with "puffy" batteries that lower surface is not flat.

I know also that some guys from Germany mount the esc/rx on the additional thin carbon plate that is screwed to our AM33 longitudinal stiffener and doesn't have any contact with chassis. In case of positive test results we can offer such option.

WesRaven

I agree. I removed it from my Evo 2, and didn't install it when I upgraded my Evo 1 with the Raceberry chassis to the MM2.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I have the DT3 in but I noted I haven't put the 1mm shim between the screw and the diff pinion so think that is the reason behind that

as for the arm for the battery mount, I am a bit concerned it will reduce strength without the brace on that side as with the original CF chassis, I can only put the centre screw in (MM Flex 3) and not the other two screws for MM Flex 4 as the chassis doesn't have the holes for that.

I was thinking maybe grinding down the exposed tab so there is still a bit touching the chassis under the battery mount?

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

No need to worry about strength. I have been running mode 1 motor mount without the arm just fine.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

What problems?