Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive) >

Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Like Tree96Likes

Awesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)

Old 08-15-2015, 05:44 AM
  #8686  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
elee32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: lambertville, nj
Posts: 788
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Does anyone have a good way of holding the SPR01 onto the little pin on the inboard end, so it doesn't pop off while installing the shock/damper assembly in the car? I'm not against using a little dab of glue, but maybe there is a more elegant solution.
Put it all together with the shock shaft in and compress enough to keep pressure on the spring. I use a 3mm hex to push the shaft into the A arm and good to go.
elee32 is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 06:26 AM
  #8687  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (54)
 
Jethroz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MD
Posts: 593
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
Although i did have some 3s that were actually 6s, but idk if i got those b/c hanulec would know i know whats up and didnt want to freak any customers out, not sure if they were released into the wild.
My evo came with 3 stamped on the shocks, but it looks like it was covered with black paint. Would those be some of the 6s labelled as 3s?
Jethroz is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 09:55 AM
  #8688  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,608
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

just completed the RFG build/installation --- and i'm about to leave for the track (Jackson RC's last night race of the season). few notes from the install.

#1 make sure the set screws holding the AT21 balls onto the AM83 plate are flush


#2 the use of MM2 mode 4 (two flat heads + 1mm) can limit the choice of inner motor mount screws that attach the motor to the car

#3 the rear toe link position is changed, and requires the toe link to be lengthened. depending upon your toe link choice you might need a different tie rod. i've been using large 1-1/2" lunsford links so i have plenty of clearance.

#4 finally once installed the car only gained 3 grams of weight.

i'll take some videos of the RFG movement once i arrive at the track and can shake the car down....
hanulec is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 02:53 PM
  #8689  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,608
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

#5 swap to a 10mm set screw and add 2mm of shim inbetween the AT21 and AM83. Without the shim, I couldn't get enough down travel with my suspension.
hanulec is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 07:10 PM
  #8690  
Tech Master
 
Madulla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 1,095
Default

No review yet??
Madulla is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 09:07 PM
  #8691  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 7,092
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Any plans for a floating battery mount like the kyosho tf7 ???
What about a floating esc/rx mount ???
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Old 08-15-2015, 11:39 PM
  #8692  
Tech Regular
 
WesRaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Any plans for a floating battery mount like the kyosho tf7 ???
What about a floating esc/rx mount ???
You laugh, but its true; the floating battery mount is already a thing. I do eagerly await the floating rx mount conversion though... the final thing keeping me from breaking through to the next level.

Seriously though, I look forward to having a need for these tweaks whenever I start running mod. It's pretty fun racing someone's science experiment.
WesRaven is offline  
Old 08-16-2015, 07:36 AM
  #8693  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 9,608
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

RFG point #6 make sure you adjust your body post height. I basically went up 2 clips.

#7 you'll need to reevaluate your setup in terms of rear toe link shims to make sure your getting the proper toe gain under compression

My first race day with the #RFG was funny enough in 17.5 as that is our big club race class, and it was the last night of a points series racing under the lights outdoors. The torque from a 17.5 motor is not great, but the trained eye can see the RFG work on the bench. On the track, once dialed in a bit, the car was super stable and had less tendency to break traction during hard acceleration in a tight S section heading onto our shortened straightaway.

Race results were round 2 & 3 TQ with a driver fail in the main while pushing to gap/loose car #2. I had too much rear bite in the main and really needed to better adjust for the cooler conditions. This hadn't been as much of a problem in the past, as the car was somewhat looser pre-RFG.

Racing finished close to midnight ... So I didn't get to try a mod motor in the car. For my next outing I'll make sure to do so.
hanulec is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 06:40 AM
  #8694  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,833
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

Received my MM2 and a few spares today, installed the MM2 and noticed I have about 1-2mm play on the shaft with the rear diff pinion on, not sure if it was there before hand, can't say I looked and everything seems to be rolling along smoothly etc? I think the inner screw to tighten the motor mount will need a ball driver as you have to get in there at an angle around the spur gear with the FFG, so not sure how you'd go really locking that one down?

Also the mount places a tab in front of the rear battery holder so the battery no longer sits flush with the chassis?

Last edited by nexxus; 08-18-2015 at 07:16 AM.
nexxus is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 08:03 AM
  #8695  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The dirty burnie
Posts: 5,740
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

There should not be excessive play on the rear input shaft. Did you install the dt03 between the motor mount and bulkhead?

I would recommend don't use the arm with the battery mount, it will only cause problems
geeunit1014 is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 08:21 AM
  #8696  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 935
Default

Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Any plans for a floating battery mount like the kyosho tf7 ???
What about a floating esc/rx mount ???
Please note that with MM2 motor mount that is a standard for Evo II/IIC and L2 cars we already have our own "floating system" for battery mounting.
With AM69 part installed the battery touches the chassis only along the front lower short edge of battery. The rear end of battery doesn't touch the chassis and is held by the motor mount through AM69 part.
So with such system of mounting the battery doesn't affect on the chassis flex.

Please note that it doesn't work with "puffy" batteries that lower surface is not flat.

I know also that some guys from Germany mount the esc/rx on the additional thin carbon plate that is screwed to our AM33 longitudinal stiffener and doesn't have any contact with chassis. In case of positive test results we can offer such option.
Oleg Babich is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 11:10 AM
  #8697  
Tech Regular
 
WesRaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I would recommend don't use the arm with the battery mount, it will only cause problems
I agree. I removed it from my Evo 2, and didn't install it when I upgraded my Evo 1 with the Raceberry chassis to the MM2.
WesRaven is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 04:51 PM
  #8698  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,833
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

I have the DT3 in but I noted I haven't put the 1mm shim between the screw and the diff pinion so think that is the reason behind that

as for the arm for the battery mount, I am a bit concerned it will reduce strength without the brace on that side as with the original CF chassis, I can only put the centre screw in (MM Flex 3) and not the other two screws for MM Flex 4 as the chassis doesn't have the holes for that.

I was thinking maybe grinding down the exposed tab so there is still a bit touching the chassis under the battery mount?
nexxus is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 05:22 PM
  #8699  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
geeunit1014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The dirty burnie
Posts: 5,740
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

No need to worry about strength. I have been running mode 1 motor mount without the arm just fine.
geeunit1014 is offline  
Old 08-18-2015, 05:55 PM
  #8700  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Schwarta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 433
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
I would recommend don't use the arm with the battery mount, it will only cause problems
What problems?
Schwarta is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.