164LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
10-01-2014, 06:20 AM
#796
You won't have to upgrade anything for a 21.5t. I have been running my tb04 (same drivetrain as the evo6) for over 3 months now with a 21.5t and all the internal gears, ring and pinions and bevel gears have no signs of wear. My car is quieter than most belt drives that run 21.5t at the local track 
Maybe I would just be better off with the TB04 PRO II to help with making minimum weight.
10-01-2014, 06:45 AM
#797
That's good to hear, thanks. I guess from reading portions of the thread it seemed as there was a need to get down on the internal ration in order to efficiently run the higher turn (21.5) motors (wasn't really aware of any wear issues).
Maybe I would just be better off with the TB04 PRO II to help with making minimum weight.
Maybe I would just be better off with the TB04 PRO II to help with making minimum weight.
10-01-2014, 06:45 AM
#798
When you said 'internal gears', I thought you meant the gears inside the diff which made me think you were worried about durability (some people don't like those gears plastic for some reason), hence me telling you that the drivetrain will handle a 21.5t no problem.
If you want a fdr lower than 3.50 on a tb04, you will have to change the ring and pinion to evo5 or evo4 parts. TBEVO5 gear #51255 , TBEVO4 gear #51109 . These require slight modification in the form of removing the lip on the bevel gear.
Beware that the tb04 chassis is actually very heavy and depending on your electronics, battery and body, you might find your car to be quite over weight. My TB04 with Tamiya Subaru BRZ R&D Sport body and 290g Orca 6200mah battery weighs in at 1520g race ready, 70g overweight! The chassis has no extra upgrades other than DCJ's and aluminium toe blocks.
You can remove 40g of weight from the chassis with titanium screws and aluminium half shafts, transmission shafts and pilot shafts but when you start adding up the costs, you might find that you would prefer to just go for the tb evo 6 instead
If you want a fdr lower than 3.50 on a tb04, you will have to change the ring and pinion to evo5 or evo4 parts. TBEVO5 gear #51255 , TBEVO4 gear #51109 . These require slight modification in the form of removing the lip on the bevel gear.
Beware that the tb04 chassis is actually very heavy and depending on your electronics, battery and body, you might find your car to be quite over weight. My TB04 with Tamiya Subaru BRZ R&D Sport body and 290g Orca 6200mah battery weighs in at 1520g race ready, 70g overweight! The chassis has no extra upgrades other than DCJ's and aluminium toe blocks.
You can remove 40g of weight from the chassis with titanium screws and aluminium half shafts, transmission shafts and pilot shafts but when you start adding up the costs, you might find that you would prefer to just go for the tb evo 6 instead
10-01-2014, 06:50 AM
#799
Thanks for all the info guys... much appreciated!
10-07-2014, 09:09 PM
#800
Although my EVO is doing well, I'm fighting for on-power steering. I decided to give up my front gear diff with Spec-R 1 million oil for something heavier, and I refilled the diff with Gravity RC 2.5 million oil. Well, unless I'm crazy, the diff doesn't feel much stiffer. Is it because the EVO.6 diffs don't take much fluid, or is it because the gears are small? It could be that the Spec-R oil was actually thicker than labeled, I suppose. Either way, anyone notice anything similar? Anyone else running a diff up front? I may just try a spool to see if I can put down post-mid-corner power, but I'm worried about losing all corner entry.
10-08-2014, 08:20 AM
#801
Did you completely clean the diff out before refilling? Not getting all the old fluid out can really throw off the new fluids viscosity sometimes.
10-08-2014, 10:21 AM
#804
Although my EVO is doing well, I'm fighting for on-power steering. I decided to give up my front gear diff with Spec-R 1 million oil for something heavier, and I refilled the diff with Gravity RC 2.5 million oil. Well, unless I'm crazy, the diff doesn't feel much stiffer. Is it because the EVO.6 diffs don't take much fluid, or is it because the gears are small? It could be that the Spec-R oil was actually thicker than labeled, I suppose. Either way, anyone notice anything similar? Anyone else running a diff up front? I may just try a spool to see if I can put down post-mid-corner power, but I'm worried about losing all corner entry.
10-08-2014, 05:00 PM
#805
I did switch from stock springs to Spec-R 2.6F/2.5R, which made the car ~0.5 faster, but made it oversteer during the main when our traction got crazy sticky. Since then I switched to Yokomo Pink F/Blue R, which made the car 0.2 slower but did make it a lot more consistent and stable all evening.
But compared to the 3 guys ahead of me, my car pushes a lot on power. My front gear diff came into the discusison spotlight when I was talking with them about my handling.
And yes, the driveline is pretty free now, though I do have plastic dust in both gear cases. Given how notchy the gears were, I'm not too worried as I figure it's just the imperfections getting filed down. I have cleaned the cases and lubed the gears with some teflon garage door lube (dries out to dry), so we'll see how it looks after the next race night.
10-09-2014, 12:21 AM
#806
Tech Master
So do you run a front diff? I can try playing with the sway bars, haven't tried that yet.
I did switch from stock springs to Spec-R 2.6F/2.5R, which made the car ~0.5 faster, but made it oversteer during the main when our traction got crazy sticky. Since then I switched to Yokomo Pink F/Blue R, which made the car 0.2 slower but did make it a lot more consistent and stable all evening.
But compared to the 3 guys ahead of me, my car pushes a lot on power. My front gear diff came into the discusison spotlight when I was talking with them about my handling.
And yes, the driveline is pretty free now, though I do have plastic dust in both gear cases. Given how notchy the gears were, I'm not too worried as I figure it's just the imperfections getting filed down. I have cleaned the cases and lubed the gears with some teflon garage door lube (dries out to dry), so we'll see how it looks after the next race night.
I did switch from stock springs to Spec-R 2.6F/2.5R, which made the car ~0.5 faster, but made it oversteer during the main when our traction got crazy sticky. Since then I switched to Yokomo Pink F/Blue R, which made the car 0.2 slower but did make it a lot more consistent and stable all evening.
But compared to the 3 guys ahead of me, my car pushes a lot on power. My front gear diff came into the discusison spotlight when I was talking with them about my handling.
And yes, the driveline is pretty free now, though I do have plastic dust in both gear cases. Given how notchy the gears were, I'm not too worried as I figure it's just the imperfections getting filed down. I have cleaned the cases and lubed the gears with some teflon garage door lube (dries out to dry), so we'll see how it looks after the next race night.
10-09-2014, 07:07 AM
#807
So do you run a front diff? I can try playing with the sway bars, haven't tried that yet.
I did switch from stock springs to Spec-R 2.6F/2.5R, which made the car ~0.5 faster, but made it oversteer during the main when our traction got crazy sticky. Since then I switched to Yokomo Pink F/Blue R, which made the car 0.2 slower but did make it a lot more consistent and stable all evening.
But compared to the 3 guys ahead of me, my car pushes a lot on power. My front gear diff came into the discusison spotlight when I was talking with them about my handling.
And yes, the driveline is pretty free now, though I do have plastic dust in both gear cases. Given how notchy the gears were, I'm not too worried as I figure it's just the imperfections getting filed down. I have cleaned the cases and lubed the gears with some teflon garage door lube (dries out to dry), so we'll see how it looks after the next race night.
I did switch from stock springs to Spec-R 2.6F/2.5R, which made the car ~0.5 faster, but made it oversteer during the main when our traction got crazy sticky. Since then I switched to Yokomo Pink F/Blue R, which made the car 0.2 slower but did make it a lot more consistent and stable all evening.
But compared to the 3 guys ahead of me, my car pushes a lot on power. My front gear diff came into the discusison spotlight when I was talking with them about my handling.
And yes, the driveline is pretty free now, though I do have plastic dust in both gear cases. Given how notchy the gears were, I'm not too worried as I figure it's just the imperfections getting filed down. I have cleaned the cases and lubed the gears with some teflon garage door lube (dries out to dry), so we'll see how it looks after the next race night.
That dust is normal. Cleaning it out and lubricating it with what you used was a great move, IMO.
Glad your having fun with the car. I get to drive my two (yes two) for the first time either this afternoon or tomorrow at TQ in Chino.
10-16-2014, 06:22 AM
#810
Tech Apprentice
@Metalnut: If you are looking for on-power steering, the most obvious change would be thicker oil in the REAR Diff.