HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

KidDynomite- Just read the site and man it's got great stuff on there. Now I have the car to relate to it and thats what makes it better. I'm already going to see if the shop here has the alum hex hubs and the extra parts to create the front diff. The thicker shock tower will be next,universals and from then on it'd be spare parts, spare parts, and more spare parts. Basically the recommended items will be bought in one shot if I can. To add to the collection I also dislike the position of the rear sway bar and will upgrade to the optional one. Other than that I'll do what others do - mostly race it stock. This car has potential as I run a stock MRX4 which I have no issues with...except for the fact I nearly got disqualified because it was too light?!

To all- If I do make the front diff...what's a good starting point since the rear has 10k? Should I change it all around? I'm waiting for a friend of mine to come on for his setup as he runs at the tracks I do, but any others will be appreciated. Also, I had to use an optional collet to install my Carlsen OS. Using this setup though now I'm not able to install any shims. The clutch feels nice and tight as the clutchbell can move outward VERY little. I was left with option when I had the Ofna CD3 PRO centax on that car and the R40. I had no issue though, so should it be the same with the Mugen - zero issue?

stefan

50k front, 30k rear

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

Someone asked this earlier but I didn't see an answer. Does anyone know what shore tires come with the MTX-4 kit? Thanks.

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Stefan- Thanks. Also, how about if I ran the solid rear axle setup in the front what gear oil would you recommend then?

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

I called Mugenusa and asked the question. I was told 40 shore front and rear

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I run 30K front, 10K rear - same as I do in the RRR. I also use Kyosho diff oil. Just be prepared to try different combinations. We all run on different tracks.

I had the same problem with my TZ. I think the shaft is too short. To solve this problem, I sanded the collet by 0.2mm. Here is what I did:

I mounted the collet in the flywheel, put a 1-2 drops of after-run oil on 400 grit sandpaper, put the collet on the oil and then moved the flywheel in a small figure eight, eight times, applying a moderate amount of pressue. I then put a 1-2 drops of oil in another spot, rotated the flywheel 90-degrees and repeated the procedure until I shaved off the 0.2mm. Moving the flywheel in a figure eight and rotating it helps ensure that you don't create a high spot - well, that's the theory at least.

Hope this helps.

SOLOARTIST 702

just curious whos got the best deal on an mtx4 keep it on the low pm me with the details holla

pioneer

solo you you better not!

nitro_moe

If I remember correctly,, it comes with 35 shore tires

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

It used to come with 37's. They could change at any time.

jaykay

high traction: 50.000 front and 30.000 rear
lower traction: 30.000 front and 10.000 rear

but not everytime diff-diff is the best combination

itchy b

iTrader: (2)

Diff - diff is not always the best combo
I alway thought that a one-way was a diff

asw7576

When using gear diff at front, does it matter to keep 1:1 ratio for tire split ? Or slightly overdrive or underdrive ? Let me remind you, rear tires usually wear faster than front. What expert suggest ? Tks.

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

They feel a little firm since I usually run 38's so 40's sounds about right. Thank you. I really appreciate it.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

You really need to measure your tire wear during qaulifying and you should decide on that. Look at your o/d chart and make sure to run the correct pulley when running tire splits.