maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Speaking of set up tips how about this.
First, I'm a little confused on the setting of droop. Not on what affects it has on the car but more like how to check droop and measure droop i.e. I believe that most racers I see checking droop are using a tool or tools that measure the distance between the chassis and the bottom of the A-arm.
But I also have seen racers adjust the droop screws and then measure the length of the shock! Next, some set-up sheets (TAMIYA) call out a distance between the chassis and the center of the wheel hub. Last, droop is the amount of vertical travel the chassis moves until the wheel come off the ground. Is this what you measure when you say you have 2mm droop in the car (TAO4 settings). If so how do you measure this? One more issue with droop! If someone measures droop by the distance bewteen the chassis and the A-arm and they increase this distance, aren't they actually decreasing the amout of droop i.e reducing the amount of up travel?
Some clarity would be appreciated!
Thanks!

Jonas Andersson

@TryHard,
Thanks for helping me out on that one!
First of all, I'm not a setup-guru in any way, so what I write may not be 100% correct, but it's my view of it. With a 2-hole piston the damper gets more resistane first of all when you try to move the piston fast, but also when you first "start" to make changes to it's position in the damper (like when you turn in after a straight, or in a chikane) which makes the car more direct and responsive. This resistance is called pack by some and it can also make the car jump around on a bumpy track, or heat up the tires too much, if you overdo it.
For a more in depth explanation I can really recommend the Car Handling Guide at Team-Orions website, it has been very useful for me!
Good luck with your testing!

Holmenkollen

I think the Tamiya drivers uses Tamiya 600 oil, wich is more like other brands 40 wt than 60 wt. So if you use AE 60 wt you get a little harder setup than you may want.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

I too have seen some inconsistent methods. If you move you lower arms up or down, then the droop seting will change with the same reading on a droop gauge!...

Here's my way of getting consistent compareable results. You will need...
*tools for adjusting droop
*round object to balance chassis on (a small hex driver is great) approx 12mm diameter works well.
*tweak gauge (I use a laser type)

1) Put on the wheels that you are going to use. You will also need shocks on your car too... spring rate is irrelivant.... just have some on.

2) Wind preload down alot! (compress spring) This pushes the wheels down as far as your droop setting allows.

3) Using a ride height gauge, adjust your droop screws until you get the max downtravel setting you desire. Measure from the front or rear to get that ends setting. Try to keep droop screws even (this will be corrected later).

4) Once max down travel is set (droop), get a round object such as a screw driver (approx 12mm in diameter is great) and place it under the front bumber IN THE CENTER of the car. This will lift the front wheels off the ground and allow the chassis to rotate around the centerline.

5) Using a comon reference point (like motor armature) measure the chassis height on both sides. Adjust rear droop screws a little at a time in opposite directions until you get the same reading on both sides.

6) RECHECK your rear droop by taking round object away and checking ground clearance. If it is too low/high, adjust accordingly and repeat steps 4 and 5.

7) Place car on tweak gauge (as per normal instructions). You should see any difference between front/rear settings on your gauge. Using front droop screws, adjust in opposite directions until it reads level.

8) Once again recheck with chassis on surface only to ensure droop setting is right.

9) Adjust rideheight to what you need and your ready to rock!

This method will give you balanced droop and will allow for any chassis tweak. Best of all, it will give you the same settings no matter what rollcenter settings you use or tyre diameter.

If you don't have a tweak gauge, you can simulate it by lifting the front end off the ground with a fine tool (like a kinfe) in the center of the chassis. Adjust by looking at which wheel leaves the ground 1st. This method is a little more crude as it dosen't allow for play in the shocks.

forty6

Does the belt tensioner really help in preventing the belt from flipping?

TJ

Has any body heard what cars are legal for TCS worlds this year. Will the 415 be able to race?

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

I have found it to be quite good item to use
-Dave

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Whats the part numbers then?

Ballsie

#49343 - TRF415 Belt Stabilizer

g4t2

Dave (or anyone else), do you have any idea when the 415MS and Volac MS are due for release in Japan?

forty6

Nov.25 for the 415MS.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Street price should be about 20-23% cheaper than the retail price that Tamiya puts out

A-Ko

iTrader: (2)

what is the retail price?

FW-05RR

probably in the high 3's

utieh

iTrader: (3)

64800Yen-20%=51840Yen