I loved your rear pod plates, could you make me a set? I wouldn't need those spacers for my 2.5.

Getting fired up about this, still running my sons L but ready to take the plunge and build the 2.5.

David Root

David, I made those plates myself, by hand. If I can do it, so can you. I don't make them for others, it's just too time-consuming.
Things you'll need:
-the original plates of the L2. You need them as a drill-mold.
-3mm drill, or the US-equivalent.
-big-a$$ reamer.
-carbon of your choice. 2 or 2.5mm thick will do.
-a lot of patience.
-a bench-press is very helpfull.
-8mm drill or something else you can use to recess the holes.
-iron-saw. Preferably a big one.
-vacuum cleaner to keep the sawdust away from you.

The process: put masking tape over the carbon. glue the original plates with a few dabs off CA to the tape. Drill through the original holes to make the new holes lined up correctly. You'll have to measure out a good spot for the damper mounting holes. Space them 20mm apart (10mm from the center-line) and 20mm down the center line from the center of the center-damper hole. The rest is creative sawing and filing, and a lot of patience.

I've now completely finished my car.
Yesterday, my friends helped me with lightening the main chassis, and I've CA'd the edges and sanded it all to a nice finish.
Just look at the pictures. I AM READY!! (and very proud of the result!)
Thanks Ronald, Richard and father Arts for helping me!

picture #1: the chassis ready for assembly.

picture #2: completed chassis

picture #3: another shot of the chassis

picture #4: my new body

final picture: another shot of the new body

They are starting up a 1/10th pan car class based on the 10L3T chassis. I picked one up and now I'm searching for a body. I was hoping to get one of the Protoform Porsche 911GT1 bodies. Those are discontinued...

Anyone know of a good source for bodies for these cars?

How about a good starting setup for Asphalt?

Blake

If they'll let you run it, the GTP bodies made for gas sedans are a good alternative. See http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCSN9&P=7 for an example and just cut it to fit.

If you know the part# for the GT1, just type it "Protoform xxxx" into Google with xxxx being the part#. Odds are, you'll find a place you can order some from. I still find the P35's that many of us with wide cars like sometimes that way years after that body was discontinued.

I believe the kit setup (I've never seen the manual for the L3t) is 30wt in all three shocks with silver springs all around and .020 front springs with no center screw in the T-bar. That's pretty much where I'd recommend starting at anyway.

TOADYY - I like your new avatar...

Your "driver" is looking sharp.

LOL...thanks

I am kind of handy, I will give it a shot.

There is another Pro 10 thread in the electric on road forum too.

David PRO10 Root

Yes, and it seems to catch on rather nicely! Let's all post a ot there, and bring our class back into people's attention. Maybe notify same car producers, like Team Asso, Corally, CRC, Dpowell, KGB and so on!

Because i invested in a extra new car.

So i got now a wet and dry car setup, (we race in the Netherlands 65%rain).

Black of dust


Looks verry verry good your car mathijs!!!