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Old 03-20-2007, 05:29 AM
  #661  
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Originally Posted by Francis M.
your in the ninja thread, what do you think people will recommend? lol
Ok... for being in the ninja thread, I believe that many people here had the chance to see both on the tracks and can think which are the most powerful… or better...
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:49 AM
  #662  
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Read Lord Mike Swagers clutch article. The pro's WILL get you started in the rite direction, its up to you to figure out how to use this info to the best of your ability. Mikes article, he gave it to you. Do what the engine is telling you not what you've heard or read. This clutch info I gave was for Port Charlotte 91x195 a very fast layout. www.rc-racing.org There is not a corner exit where you are squeezing the trigger and starting out at the bottom of first gear. Yes I thought 4mm was a little big so I started out at 3.5mm and continued to drill larger at our state race at the Fort. I drilled larger because I kept cranking on the clutch nut to get what I was after. James good show. Rcfoolz is racing with a shattered ankle and Belz palsy...hard core.
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:48 AM
  #663  
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Originally Posted by cdelong
I'm not sure if Mike and Ron are drilling their shoes- wouldn't that be cause for having to crank down on the nut to get the same punch out of the clutch? If the shoes are lighter the engine has to be higher in the powerband to keep them on the steel plate right?? The lighter shoes will slide out quicker, but not as hard as a non-drilled shoe.

I may be hosed in my theory.... it's awful late here on the east coast

Don't light shoes move out fast but hit soft/ Heavy shoes move out slower but hit harder?? (both assuming the same spring compression).

I need some edumacation on that

You can adjust your end play a little bit to have the clutch engage harder or smoother besides the weight of the actual fly weight. The setting recomended is a pretty good starting point. My engine temp went down considerably going with the Settings recommended above.

Last edited by Francis M.; 03-20-2007 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:35 AM
  #664  
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Originally Posted by Francis M.
My engine temp went down considerably going with the Settings recommended above.
Probably also the fuel consumption, or not?
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:38 AM
  #665  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Probably also the fuel consumption, or not?

If it did add fuel consumption it was minimal since I was making run time with both settings. It was just a lot easier to drive once i adjusted the clutch settings since to motor was just more consistent since my original settings were a bit heavy.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:46 AM
  #666  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Probably also the fuel consumption, or not?
M7H, I gotta c u drive man. U sure sound like a Michael Salven or something?
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Old 03-20-2007, 08:00 AM
  #667  
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Originally Posted by Francis M.
If it did add fuel consumption it was minimal since I was making run time with both settings. It was just a lot easier to drive once i adjusted the clutch settings since to motor was just more consistent since my original settings were a bit heavy.
ok, no I just assumed because of the lower engine temps, your previous clutch setting had to much slip...
Originally Posted by Pooh2
M7H, I gotta c u drive man. U sure sound like a Michael Salven or something?
Haha.... thanks...
No, as stated above, it was just a conclusion.....
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Old 03-20-2007, 10:03 AM
  #668  
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Originally Posted by M7H
With the mugen clutch, with 4 shoes in between the pins, it all comes down to centrifugal forces.... with the serpent type of clutches, it's a bit different.... (just to make people a bit more confused... )

But as we are talking mugen now, lighter shoes will engage later, but also with less force....
If you are having mid power problems, lighter shoes might do the job, because the clutch might help (due to some slip) to keep the rev's of the engine up...
Heavier shoes, with a harder spring setting might let the engine bog down a bit.....
This is probably just semantics but the spring is what decides how much force you need for the shoe to touch the bell. same spring tension, same amount of force, lighter shoes, more velocity(rpm) required, and heavier shoes, less rpm. but the force is always the same. its up to your motor to keep increasing that force for a hard "hit" or for your motor to wuss out and stutter for a soft "hit" or even just slipping.

i could be wrong but thats how i see it.
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Old 03-20-2007, 11:41 AM
  #669  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Actually, I drive 1 league higher than You Michel.....
that's only due the fact a few people quit
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Old 03-20-2007, 04:25 PM
  #670  
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Originally Posted by border r/c
that's only due the fact a few people quit
True, very true... but without Ilia (top 20-30 of the world?), Jordy, stanley... I would have made it without help.....
But now I'm qurious how I will do this season..... on our highest level.....
See you in 3 weeks....
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Old 03-21-2007, 02:12 PM
  #671  
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Hey Mike or Brian,

How much shims total should I use for the mr12 ninja if I want to use 30% nitro?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2007, 10:22 PM
  #672  
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randay just add the supplied shim in the box for 30%
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:39 AM
  #673  
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I just got one of these, I was reading a few pages back. Whats the swager break in method? I got the MR12.
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:54 AM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by nitrodude
I just got one of these, I was reading a few pages back. Whats the swager break in method? I got the MR12.
It's on this page...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=95814&page=16
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Old 03-25-2007, 09:06 AM
  #675  
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Thanks
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