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Old 12-01-2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bdyche
bdyche agrees with T-BirdJunkie; 3 races with an LRP 8.5 until the gear diff was toasted in his SC10, regularly gets a half dozen or more races (+practice days) out of a ball diff with the same ESC/motor combination.
What part of the gear differential is failing? It'll cost me $30 or so to convert this to a gear diff, so im leaving the ball diff, just wondered what part of the gear diff failed?
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Old 12-01-2011 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Cummins Driver
What part of the gear differential is failing? It'll cost me $30 or so to convert this to a gear diff, so im leaving the ball diff, just wondered what part of the gear diff failed?
I killed the outdrives for the gear diff as well as eroded the gears inside to the point that they would mesh fine under light acceleration but would grind horribly with more power, even after being shimmed. Contrary to popular belief, AE gear diffs are more expensive to maintain than a properly maintained ball diff.
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Old 12-01-2011 | 01:40 PM
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I'm going to pick up a b4.1 ft kit saturday. this will be my first AE car. is there anything i should get for it? as in what spares should i keep handy. also why is the +8mm chassis better? I'm making the switch to AE so any help on this buggy is helpful to me. thanks
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Old 12-01-2011 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TraxxasPeter
I'm going to pick up a b4.1 ft kit saturday. this will be my first AE car. is there anything i should get for it? as in what spares should i keep handy. also why is the +8mm chassis better? I'm making the switch to AE so any help on this buggy is helpful to me. thanks
people say that the longer chassis makes it more stable and land better and basically there are no ill effects from the standard chassis (maybe less steering but there's still plenty)

just get some better ball cups especially for the rear camber links (losi or rpm)

thats really about all you need for the buggy, it's a winner out of the box. i did eventually switch to the aluminum bulkhead in the front because i hated the tiny screws that like to strip the plastic bulkhead on the front brace.

get the lipo ballast weight and a bunch of weights
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Old 12-01-2011 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus
people say that the longer chassis makes it more stable and land better and basically there are no ill effects from the standard chassis (maybe less steering but there's still plenty)

just get some better ball cups especially for the rear camber links (losi or rpm)

thats really about all you need for the buggy, it's a winner out of the box. i did eventually switch to the aluminum bulkhead in the front because i hated the tiny screws that like to strip the plastic bulkhead on the front brace.

get the lipo ballast weight and a bunch of weights
thanks man. will you be at IR on saturday?
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Old 12-01-2011 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TraxxasPeter
thanks man. will you be at IR on saturday?
no but im on my way there to pick up some parts now, and again tomorrow, race day.
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:21 PM
  #8017  
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Question guys whats better to run stock balls diff, ceramic balls diff, or carbide balls diff. is there any advantages to any of them.
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:28 PM
  #8018  
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8mm chassis installed time to kick some KEEYOSHO ASS!

tomorrow is RACEEEDAY!

will update with results if I get past third place a, im going mod next week
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:30 PM
  #8019  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
8mm chassis installed time to kick some KEEYOSHO ASS!
this is the reason i am making the switch lol
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete Martinez
Question guys whats better to run stock balls diff, ceramic balls diff, or carbide balls diff. is there any advantages to any of them.
Hey Pete,

Run the carbides and you will be all set.

-Vin
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Vin_Nocella
Hey Pete,

Run the carbides and you will be all set.

-Vin
thanks vin, and hows the baby.
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TraxxasPeter
this is the reason i am making the switch lol
lol i was just joking, its all fun but i know my glued one was really nice and easier to drive.
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Old 12-01-2011 | 05:51 PM
  #8023  
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Originally Posted by Pete Martinez
Question guys whats better to run stock balls diff, ceramic balls diff, or carbide balls diff. is there any advantages to any of them.
Ceramic cost more up ft , but outlast the carbide many times ...
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Old 12-01-2011 | 06:28 PM
  #8024  
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Originally Posted by daverobbo5
Hello AE peoples. I race stock in 2WD and 4WD but have been wanting to try mod truck for while so I bought a couple of T4's.

I am looking to gear them with a 8.5 HW brushless and 60A esc.

Research suggests I run 18/87.

I'm sure i need to add some weights too. any suggestions??

I'm sure this has been answered 14 times before but I know it will only take a few key strokes to respond.

thanks in advance!!
Hello all any luck with this one?
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Old 12-01-2011 | 06:28 PM
  #8025  
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Just thought id post some pictures of my recently purchased Associated T4. Wasnt really looking too hard for one, but I found it for a deal that im pretty sure i cant go wrong on Came with a ZTW 60a ESC, Novak ballistic 5800kv motor, Savox 1290mg servo, RPM rear arms, and some FT parts including the hinge pin brace, servo mount, motor plate, battery strap and I think the shocks as well. Not sure i like the body I jumped the gearing up to 20/87 and its much better than the 15/87 it came to me with. Has some actual get up and go, and decent top end now. It could probably still handle more gearing, but its pretty good as is now
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-100_2519.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-100_2520.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-100_2521.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-100_2523.jpg   RC10B4.1 FT/WC-100_2525.jpg  


Last edited by Cummins Driver; 12-01-2011 at 08:57 PM.
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