Carbon Fiber front shock towers so I don't have to import from the UK for my X 6 Squared

Hello there! I have a few questions I hope you can all answer for me as I've been out of the hobby for 15 years now.

I've ordered up a T4.1 Brushless to start racing 2wd ST at my local indoor track, Basher's in Palm Beach Gardens, FL.

Since this is being done on a budget, I still haven't ordered the charger or batteries and it will be a minimum of 2 weeks before I do. In the interim, I would like to take the time to set up my T4.1 as best as possible WITHOUT spending money, or very very little. I know there are somethings I can do right away that will help and don't involve huge dollar investments.

First, is it advisable to back out all of the screws and use blue thread lock on them?

Is there anything specific that needs to be rebuilt or shimmed out of the box? I'll be checking the gear mesh on the motor, but is there anything else I should be looking for?

Should I glue up the servo saver, and if so, where exactly to I glue?

The other night I noticed someone with a stock t4.1 that had soldered two small capacitors (at least that's what they looked like) just in front of the ESC on the battery wires. I've never seen this before and am wondering what the advantage is? Capacitors are dirt cheap and if it helps I'd be willing to purchase those immediately.

Any help you all can give me is much appreciated, I've been reading this thread for days and the forum, but can't seem to find the answers to those questions. Thanks a bunch.

Mike

Ok I am in with the losi spring this Sat. Ill Give them a try. Ps Come check my car. No 2mm spacer oops.

I"m betting a lot of folks would love to see a picture of how the TLR springs work on an AE shock body. Personally, I would like to know the Traxxas part # for the threaded shock collars, b/c I don't understand how a big-bore collar could fit on an AE shock body.

Any idea how I can get my turnbuckles for my toe in/out to be of equal length? All my other turnbuckes are equal but my right turnbuckle (toe in/out) shows more of the thread and this is because I am setting it to 0 degrees toe. My left turnbuckle is fine.

Also what does this mean from the post above.


"Drag link from servo to steering arm pivot calls for approx 1/16th in manual, for full lock to lock 2mm is needed (team guys are using a blue spacer, I had 2mm spacer)"

Add a washer under the ball stud on servo arm and steering rack?

I had a problem last weekend where I couldnt finish the main because my turnbuckle came out of the ball cup. If theyre about to fall out then just put the ball cup all the way on each side and try again, but if its not about to fall out then does it matter? Dont wanna blow a day of practice to make a stupid mistake in the main!! Trust me, I know..

Any screws threaded into aluminum should have threadlock on them. The long screws that hold the sides of the transmission together and thread into the motor plate should definitely have thread lock and shouldn't be tightened too far or the transmission will bind. You will be able to feel the binding if its present on your car while tightening and loosening the screws. Also the screws on the bottom side of the steering rack shouldn't be too tight either. The bell cranks should flop back and forth loose. If you have a metal geared servo you can glue the steering rack. The larger of the two bell cranks is the servo saver. When you pull the bell crank apart, there is a nut on top with the bearing in it. This nut compresses a spring that holds the two halves of the bellcrank together until force is applied (impact with a marshals hip, for example ). Take it all apart and put some CA on the contact points between the two halves so they can't rotate against each other. Reassemble it with the nut, washer and spring. It definitely makes the buggy and especially the trucks feel more direct when cornering. Hope this helps.

The Rpm spring collar is designed to fit more than just one
size spring ...

The Traxxas collar fits the Ae for 12m spring as well ....

either part will get her done

just slide um on , install the 12m spring and spring cup

I think he is talking about the plastic ring for the upper sping retainer. It's not a threaded collar. It fits perfectly on the AE threaded collar.

What did running these springs really help?

I am thinking about trying them out. The cost is not very high. but was wondering before I order the stuff

They dont change much since the spring rates are close if not the same as ae and K springs.

They add or have more stability & a smoother ride.


Also better landings ,
better then the K-spring even.....\

Best spring package you can put on your ride , make sure to get both the Pink & Yellow rear..

Thank you.

Oh. Did you need to change oil wt in the shocks?

Hey Cherry,

I'm just getting back in the game and picked up a 4.1...my +8mm is coming this week. I see the setups now are showing guys running Kyosho springs rather than AE ones, and I see you are even trying other springs. Obviously I know these guys are chasing 10th's and 100th's on the track. Am I going to notice the difference as a new guy?

compared to stock spring the difference or improvement is very noticeable.


Compared to the K-springs ?

Way more betta ....

rather then say you will get faster lap times , I would say you will have fewer mistakes & you can drive the car harder...