I bought the usb to update my LRP SXX V2 now . I should have bought the Tekin a couple of years ago, but too late for that now. I chose the LRP so I wouldn't have to add the external boost or battery. I run the races , so I don't have any spare time to prepare cars. I'm lucky to throw them down and race and hope things stay togethere. I guess a couple of seasons out of electric racing and I've turned bitter about the cost. Don't condemn me for saying , but gas is where it's at. I love the way the pan cars handle , and with good speed , they are great fun to race. I will try to pick up the right equipment so I don't have to repeat this next year and me and my empty pockets will cowboy up and race. Sorry about the sour attitude, I'll get over it as soon as the flag drops on the next race.

After racing gas on-road for 10 years and getting into electric this year, Im surprised at your point of view.

I am having the exact opposite experience. It cost me substantially more to stay at the front of the pack with the gas cars.

I've always thought 8th scale cars were cool, never had the budget to go down that road. 10th scale nitro really don't look as fun.

What I love about 12th is that it has been the quickest on-road car since electric started, and the least expensive/time consuming to race.
We have 8 mins races, super low maintenance, etc, etc.

Don't understand why more "Racers" haven't jumped on the 12th bandwagon yet, especially for indoor racing

I know exactly why more racers aren't coming aboard, the cars look intimidating and are very fast. At my track all of the guys with nothing to do come over and scope out the 1/12 scale heats, then walk away shaking their heads.

Yeah, I here you.

Too bad they don't give it a try, maybe there are thinking it's harder to drive than a sedan or something. They just don't realize how easy it is to have that much effortless corner speed.
Takes the mind a bit to adjust, but the cars roll around with so much less wasted energy.

Some slightly red neck guy at my track was watching 12th mod and said laughing these are RC cars on speed

I said no that's normal it's just the other cars are on valium

Oh I give people goes with my car all of the time, especially if its a blinky night and boost doesn't make it to 45mph on the back straight, and they all say its fun. Used cars are what get people into it, one very good offroad racer is getting it going on the carpet as well due to buying a well set-up car secondhand with a battery and servo. He just slapped his extra Tekin into it and was running on a set of tires I gave him for a few weeks, but now he has the sickness and is getting faster. I even impressed a head-honcho at this track who had no love for carpet racing by letting him take my car for a few laps.

Oh, I thought for sure that was you that hit the Gaterade bottle. I remember you kept saying I hit somthing hard down the straight and thats all I remember seeing. I will never forget that, I was almost crying, laughing when I saw that. As to your Top shock problem, I had the same thing happen. I even read an article about shimming the dampner behind a e-clip. Tried it and it didn't work. I decided to scrap it and I did some custom stuff and put an associated shock in. No more weird shock gap! I am curious to see how that is going to help my handling. Cookies were made with crack!

Crack

No wonder they we're so popular ...lol

I'm not sure how much a little top shock piston slop would affect a totally dialed car but I took the thinnest castor shim and choped off the part that latches onto the caster rod then I sanded it til it was super thin then popped it onto the shock shaft and the placed the piston on and then the e-clip and no more play. I'm not going to spend 5 dollars on some exotic thin very small washer

I've basically rebuilt the whole car and it's ready for another go at it

I'm even going to try the wide ft end and with Dbl pink/pink going to find the right springs for my style for ft, rear and top

My droop in back seems ok not sure what droop to put in ft nor how to do it with such stiff springs but I think it's less crucial in ft than in rear cause of weight. Also not sure what weight I want to try in top shock but other than that not sure what else to be in consideration of besides what RBF said with black ft and yellow rear

Can't wait to pay off my speedo next week because I can buy a charger

I think I'll get this kind of charger

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

You are absolutely right, its my first time to race 12th scale and I've been racing 10th scale touring forever but when I tried 12th scale its actually easier to drive. I don't race tc anymore maybe next year.

Especially if it was rubber tire TC, that can be a handful. If your going all-out at down the back straight rubber tires wont get you turned or stopped if your not in the grove. Just ask my rear hub carrier.

Totally agree. For me, 1/12 racing is the class to race. It's everything you said, and more. I wish more people would give it a try, in a lot of ways it is up to the people who race it to promote it (reasonably) and help the new racers as much as possible.

The intimidation factor of 1/12 is the apparent 'voodoo' that tuning presents to the typical touring car racer, or new racer. In many ways it is less about nutting and bolting the car and more about finesse. We do everything a half millimeter at a time, and in a different manner. It's just a shame since touring car is more complicated; it's just more what I would call 'nut and bolt' tuning where 1/12 is more 'finessing the car'.

Mass sharing of tuning information is the only way to really get people over it. Someone more motivated than myself should do a wiki page dedicated to just tuning a 12scale. There is a 'tuning guide' floating around but its sort of arbitrary and doesn't explain anything in a way that it will help the new racers.

I also agree. We all share information at the track (no one throws a towel over their car) in order to promote good friendly competition. The track is dominated by CRC cars but the couple AEs stick together.

We have converted some oval racers to try turning right and they are now hooked on road course driving. Now if only CRCs didn't break we would have more converts but a few good hits and their chassis releases either the front bumper or the upper pod brace. That turns off some people.

Lol don't hit anything then
It will stop breaking down

regards Roy

Nicley said. That is what most of the TC or nitro guy's don't understand about 12th scale. It's all with tent's of millimeters and more "finesse" then TC or a 1:8. That's also what I like about 12th scale racing, the speed, the feel, the reaction, the finesse.

Regards Robert