The main benefit using a short pack is you can pack all the electronics centered or inline on the chassis for better balance...

so im going to ask a dumb question, but bare with me, this is my first car that im building. I am noticing on all the setup sheets, for the suspension, it says limiter. what exactly is the limiter? where can i get them? sorry for the stupid question, still learning things

Ok, so other than pure weight distribution, there is no real benefit to running a pack that is 105g lighter, because it simply weighs less, correct?

most people are adding weight as it is...

ThunderbirdJunkie runs his gearboxes like he runs his women.

Dry.
Dunno yet. Just put the car back together after being stagnant in 2w mod for a while. It no longer has a Novak Cyclone or a 14x2
Still stealing
ThunderbirdJunkie bought his shorty because of fore/aft adjustability. Left/right balance isn't all that important...our cars are underweight with LiPo batteries anyway, so you might as well ballast the light side if it really bothers you.
The limiters go inside the shock, underneath the piston's bottom E-clip. They're basically little plastic washers.
ASC4187 is the part number per the manual
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA19&P=7

The purpose is to limit downtravel which limits body roll.

Exactly, that is why I'm a little confused. Running a full size lipo pack is already on the lighter side, so putting a short pack in seems kind of odd. But, there are at least 3 AE drivers testing this. They don't say anything about adding weight to compensate for the short pack. They are just mentioning the weight that is normally added to a modern B4.1 +8mm car.

Yokomo's new 2wd, offers this configuration as well, but none of the cars in the press photos show the electronics on the center line. They simply show one car with a standard size pack and one with a short pack with the electronics in the traditional locations. The only benefit they mention, is greater tunability. So again, you have more weight distribution options, but the car is still over 100g lighter in general.

My hypothesis on the whole matter comes down to the latest trend in 2wd. The longer chassis design. TLR, Associated, Durango, and now Yokomo all subscribe to the longer chassis design concept. Coincidentally, at the same time, short battery packs are being tested in all of these cars. Short battery packs were none existent until longer chassis began to pick up steam, for example the TLR 22. This makes me think that when running a longer car, a shorter battery pack may be more ideal, because of the way the chassis reacts to that particular amount of weight. A sweet bi-product of this, is that the driver has more options for weight distribution.

I don't know, I could be totally wrong about this. It just seems odd to me that 4 company's(that we know of) within the last 10 months have not only started using longer chassis, but shorter battery packs to go with them without any weight compensation.

I am not an engineer, I am just speculating. That is all.

I think the point to put everything in the middle ESC etc. Is to center the weight. I had to add 1/2 oz on the right side to make up for the ESC. inthe end it's more weight than really needs to be there. Having the weight center and rear helps traction which we seem to have a hard time getting

I don't see a point to add weight to balance the buggy out of the weight is not really needed if you can run a shorty pack and move the weight to the center.

u can make your buggy as lightweight as u like, but at the big races u will still need to make weight! so if your allready under weight with a standard size batt, u will be adding alot of weight if your using a shorty pack!! it does allow for alot of tuning options though with weight distribution

That all makes sense to me, but I have yet to see a B4.1, Durango, or Yokomo run the ESC on the center-line with a short pack and you would still need to add a ton of weight to then be legal. I like the idea of centering everything, but where do you add the weight back? There car seems like it would be such a hand full, a perfectly balanced hand full, but a hand full none the less.

That's a good point. I know a lot of people switch over to run saddle packs in the SC10 4x4. Does it really make that big of a difference? Who knows. I guess the same applies to the shorty pack on the Buggy.

But with the main weight centers at least if you need to add weight you can add it evenly throughout the buggy. Sides, rear, front. I am sticking to my stick pack it does just fine for me,

can somebody explain what moving the ball stud out on the shock tower does? then moving it to the middle hole on the castor block like brent theike setup...
i am guessing it is an in between from the inner shock tower hole inner on block and inner on shock tower and middle on blocks?

even the rear he moved the holes one over on the hubs and u brace...??

I had the opposite problem. The AE front hex wheels didn't have a problem but the Losi 22 rears I couldn't fit a nut driver in. I ended up grinding the JC serrated nuts down to 5/16". It wasn't hard to do, just grind away the high spots on the hexes then go a little more and it is right at 5/16".

so what brand of pinion do you all recommend with the jc silent spur gear?

i usually use gold pinions, they dont make em anymore but i find losi ones are nice and the steel robinson racing not aluminum sound good

i agree i like the L*#^ pinons too.