Thanks James,
will try ,
any advise when building the TC6 ?
has anyone tried 2 gear diff as per spool and diff ?

Edited: Sorry just did a search got the answer but thanks anyway, will post some pics of my TC6,

I recently stripped a set of gears in mine also.
I noticed that the mesh was not all that tight. I bought extra shims along with the new carbon gears so I can experiment with the gear mesh. If you sand the backs of the gears too much, this will have an effect on how tightly they mesh together so be careful.

I wouldn't even call it "sanding" the gears when done right. Just graze them enough to remove any possible burs or mold flashing. Get any medium grit and just scuff it for a few seconds. If you sand enough you could take .25 mm off each gear, so side to side you'll increase the gap .5 mm....... Which is enough to cause breaking issues.

Just had first Onroad race, using new TC6 recently purchased. Absolutely loved this car as it handled very predictably with the ability to be presicely placed anywhere on the track without suffering drawbacks in any other handling areas. Wanted to also thank everyone for setup/building advice and assistance that was provided on this forum. For someone with no experience in Onroad racing, this platform makes Onroad racing a new found great experience! Of course I broke several things, due to pushing car attempting to be fast/compete for winning and reacting to inputs much quicker than anticipated, but overall this car is spot on and very glad to have chosen this platform to start Onroad racing.

Welcome to the club Jason

Mess with the internal shimming man. I've ran a gear diff in the back of my tc6 since day one with 4.5 and 3.5, through the rroc, and still am running with the original set of gears.

I'd have to agree!!
I've been running mine sine RROC and only recently stripped the gears while running it up front with putty. After cleaning it up I noticed that just the top of the teeth were stripped away. I now have the .1mm shims so I can fine tune the mesh. I would imagine that after all the parts are seated, there is a bit more play in the gears so it probably could have used a re-shim. I will keep that in mind for my new diff as I am going to experiment with 2 (F/R) gear diffs.

About to order an integy complete setup station and was just curious to if it comes with the right wheel nuts. 10 years ago I had to buy extra (I think metric) wheel nuts. Also is the setup station and tweak board the ticket or should I just use a camber gauge and call it good. I know after a hard hit the car would tweak easily. Is that still the case.

Also what is the best 17.5 for an indoor tight carpet track. I'm a tekin fan hands down but Would like to have an extra option.

Can't go wrong with a d3 or x12

+1 on the D3, I love mine

Wait and get a Hudy one. They do come up in the Buy/Sell quite often.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...h-Touring-Cars

And then just so I didn't have to use my wheel nuts all the time, I ordered these from Integy just to make things easier.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Axle-Nut-Set-4

I have the Integy (c23282)and it comes with nuts.

Thanks guys. I saw a hudy one on the for sale section but the guy wants 250.

Also do I need to run the novak cap in the rx? Im running a tekin rs esc.

Hey Guys.


Realizing the Tc6 is a sister car with the bd5, Where do the cars actually differ?
Why does the Bd5 seem to excel on Carpet?


Dave.