Mind me asking what you don't like about the rx8?

Sounds like everybody has had a different set of experiences with plastic vs steel spur gears. Not surprising though. Here are mine...

My experience with steel spurs has been (when running the typical electric direct drive setup) eventually the narrower metal spur gear pounds a dent into the wider pinion gear. After a while, the spur will want to wander back and forth within this "dented groove" and sound like a broken blender. Noisy as hell! Which is fine if you don't care for the ability to listen for other audible clues of vehicle malfunction. This happens because the pinion/spur interface is where all the change in forces/direction takes place (going from forward to reverse for motor braking and then back to forward). The constant gnashing back and forth at this focal point will eventually destroy the pinion and spur both...just depends on the weight of your vehicle, tracks you run on and how aggressive you drive as to how long it takes and when. I was going through two pinions ($12-$15) a month and one spur ($25) a month...racing every weekend. Pretty costly in my mind.

So...I switched to plastic. The kyosho plastic spur is inherently quieter because of the material and since it is wider it distributes the forces across a larger area and does not cause a dent in the pinion...hence no wander and the pinion never gets trashed. However the spur will eventually go...and usually in a sudden catastrophic way. Not good in the middle of a race. The up side is that plastic spurs are CHEAP...20%-25% of the cost of a metal spur. I was getting roughly 4 times the run time out of a kyosho spur ($5) vs metal spur with zero pinion wear. Pretty good return in my mind.

Then I started using an electri-clutch / traktion drive AND mechanical brakes on my eBuggy with steel pinion/spur (as the plastic gear was too wide for the braking setup). Since the forward/braking forces are no longer focused at the pinion/spur interface (clutch eases power delivery and they are both just along for the ride during braking) practically ALL pinion/spur wear ceased. It runs much quieter now and I have yet to replace either component in the drive train. This was 6 months ago. Excellent results...identical to my nitro.

Some of you have probably noticed something quite similar.

There you have it...my contribution.

Right there with you bro! Sold both of my NIB units and 2050kv T8s when I just couldn't keep them operating reliably.

I am running a Tekno converted D8...very heavy car...a shade over 9lbs. IMO RX8s are just WAY too touchy and fragile when trying to push around a 9lb. car. Could never get it to run cool...regardless of gearing, battery or motor. Motor always ran hot too. I tried everything over a 4 month period. Eventually they both (main unit and back up unit) literally burst into flames in the car on a track day. What a nightmare. I consider this my dark time of experimentation for a lost cause!

Reinstalled my mamba system and castle motor...works like a dream now.

I know a lot of guys who run Tekin without a single issue. But not me...what are you gonna do? LOL

No LOVE tekin wont run anything else tired them all you cant beat the performance just having some technical issue with my speedo think I got it sorted out thou

So it doesn't sound like we are in the same boat...

Love the Tekin as well.....when it's running. The Mamba however, is more likely to stay running when you need it the most.

frank - steel spur gear come with kit ? and i cant wait see a video yet?

Has anyone spotted or know of the truggy electric version yet???

If its out soon I'll buy both for parts similarity

I use this. I bought the 30a version with Deans. Works very well, have charged with it now for 2mths.

http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...fmuss19mcrul61

You are correct they were AE and Losi. Is the Kyosho gear a simple drop in or do I need to use a different center diff???

I know this has been discussed already, but since I'm clearly not the most seasoned 1/8 guy, can some of the team guys chime in on the shimming up front. I followed the addendum to the "t" and it just feels terrible. I have pulled the front diff and mic'd and re-mic'd the shims 3 times but it's done correct. I'm scared to even pull 1/4 throttle on the bench. Just curious why so much tighter than others. In advance, all responses are greatly appreciated. The rest of the kit is entirely too beautiful to have a diff sound like this. Lol

OK guys heres the video. There was a nitro truggy running so sorry about the noise but it came out pretty good and its in HD >>>

iPhone guys click here
http://youtu.be/51UQ1W-9wYc

+ YouTube Video

i ran my nitro car for 12 gallons be4 i change the ring and pinnions on it. when i did the rear was so tight that i could not spins over 3 tank later it rolls just fine.

there shimed tight to last not need a new one ever 4 gallons

well
serpent your killing me my painter in fl they took the body out the box and shipped me the car him the body

its done and i dont even have my car yet it all shipped monday

Sweet body porkchop!