My new shell.

I can keep up quite well with the RT5, which is the newest ST truck kit you can buy (and also a very good kit, Give credit where it's due). ST truck is taking off again here in SoCal, which is a good thing, keeps the shortbus drivers away from us. Will have to wait to see how the new Losi does, but in all of the races I have seen in the hands of team drivers, they still havent gotten it figured out yet.

Saw you and your brother racing Friday night at Westcoast,I couldn't believe how many trucks showed up,shortbus is over for me,getting hacked non stop on the first lap gives you no chance of catching the lead pack,so I'm debating to sell it a d get a truck or just convert mine over,you and your brothers truck looked good,those damn k trucks looked good also,still wondering why in the hell did I sell mine lol

+1. That happened to me where when you let go, all of a sudden it doesnt roll anymore and just stops. Back the pinion off the motor and use lock tight. $.02

sorry if im a little late, but i had a busy weekend. like bilster said, no need to resolder anything. hell i didnt even desolder the motor, i just pulled it out together with the shock tower and esc

I think Ae dropped the ball on the T-4 , they don't need a whole new design though, a few upgrades and improvements is all that is needed.
Then stadium truck may come back, but even if Ae did make the improvements ?

The Short Course class is so much more fun than a stadium . The ST class will only pale to it formal gory days ...

+8mm Chassis Is Amazingly Faster Than the Stock Chassis .I've been running the Short chassis since I built the car .Put the +8mm on Friday Night and Was More consistent @ My Home Track Then the Short Chassis By Far , Where people have went back to short chassis, +8mm Has Excelled !' No Cry Babies Aboard !'

Good Job ,Well Done By Team Associated !'

You actually drive the CAR HARDER TRY IT !'

Last night I went back to the standard chassis & set-up, will report back on results ....

If anyone is having a hard time getting a long chassis pt# asc9636 let me know. I bought a few extras and I could part with a couple. I picked them up last night.

PM me or Text to 603-231-1692

Robb

Sweet! thnx guys!

Does anyone know how to get the rear motor guard part 9819 without getting the sc10 one that has the screw hole in the top? I want a new one of what comes with the kit?

anybody have a good setup for a blown out track with some good bumps big jumps, it is high traction in the hard spots but some and just loose, big jumps also that are flat landing...running the short chassis for now..usually i can tune well but i cant find a setup that doesnt push, i guess i have to play around

ASC9819 is the motor guard that you are looking for.

Here is a setup that one can enjoy, and drive the piss out of with confidence.

Front: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright orange springs, 30wt oil, inside on the tower, outside on the arm. 1mm camber washer, and inside on the tower, and inside on the 3 hole caster block. 24.5mm ride height.



Rear: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright yellow springs, 27.5 oil, inside on the tower, and inside on the arm. 1 washer under the u-brace ball stud located on the inside hole of the u-brace. B hole on the "A" plastic insert of the aluminum 0 degree hubs. 3 degree toe block with "1" degree of anti squat. 24.5mm ride height. Thick battery pad in the front, and a thin one in the rear. Of course, all the weights in the usual places too. I honestly feel the key to this set up is the K springs...car stays so flat in the corners, and jumps like a dream.