You would fit 2 x 4500 3S soft case packs (or bigger if you removed the doors), so with a 1400kv you'd make 20 minutes. How long are your finals?

To charge 2 packs as a pair you just need a series harness (and balancing harness to balance) which makes it basically the same as charging 1 x 4S pack, just 2 more connectors.

Most 1/8th e-buggies are not running the best choice of electronics/batteries, simple as that. A 1/8th e-buggy done right could be 3Kg or less, and it's quite easy to be in the 3200-3300 zone if you choose one of the modern light buggies. The Ve8 is a heavy car like the D8.

Those Thunder Power batteries are around 300g each, 600g total. That means the car would be 3145g with no batteries!

My Xray weights 3230g RTR with no lightweight parts and with dual batteries(more weight than a single pack). My DNX408-e which is quite a heavy car is 3380g.
Mugen Eco's are around 3300g too, and so do most of the actual cars. I can't believe the 811e is that heavy considering the nitro version isn't, the electric should be lighter.

Its lighter than my Durango E converted buggy.

I have an Eco and it is definitely lighter, but there's no way that thing is a whole 2lbs lighter than my Ve8. I have Thunder Power 5300 2S packs. I'll weigh it tonight and check it out. I have to run with Nitros on occasion, so I need to be able to run 20 minute mains now and then.

The Xray weighs that little? Wow. I'm sure those graphite towers have a lot to do with that.

Actually, the heavier cars don't bother me at all. I think people get too hung up on weight. The heavier cars always seem better planted for a bigger variety of track conditions.

But 3745g it's still too much! Take my Durango(converted the same way than yours) for example...3380g RTR, huge difference.

I'm waiting for more people to weight their 811e's though and it would be interesting to see the weight as a roller.

As i say, picking up the right components is very important to get a lighter buggy, i've been working on this for a couple of years now because after some tests, having a light buggy suits my driving better. I know most people don't care about weight and they're happy with it

The Xray is really light from the box, could be lighter with all the options(alu drive axles, titanium screws, alu turnbuckles...) but that would make it quite expensive too.

Actually, I stand corrected. I was wrong about the weights. I just weighed my RTR Ve8 and ECO right now.

My Ve8 comes in at 3766g (8lbs 4.8 oz.)
The lighter ECO came in at 3630g (7lbs 4oz)

I don't know where I got 9lbs from, but I hadn't weighed it in a long time. The Ve8 IS considered to be one of the heaviest buggies out there. It's also one of my favorites. I used 2x 2S Gens Ace Lipos (305g ea). So, based on that, I would have to say the 811E is a heavyweight for sure. I think the ECO is in the perfect weight range. Not too heavy and not too light.

I too am interested to hear from other owners of the 811e. I like to try different things, so I looking for an excuse to try out this buggy. Although, the ECO is going to be a tough act to follow for sure.

Man I'll have to weigh it again tonight. I didnt mean to start a mine is lighter than yours thing...

Well all done except shocks and I have to say once I got the rear strapped in the rest went very well. Frank, can you tell me a good starting point for pistons and oil? Like I said last night, I'm an on road TC guy and new to 1/8. Thanks sir in advance.

That weight is correct. The same as my with Intellect 5800/60c, Tekin combo 2050. Futaba BLS351.
The "roller" weight is in the 2750 region. But there is many heavy Steel parts that can be swapped for Alu dito.

I ligtened my ECO (which is quite light) with every possible thing nearly and it stopped at sligthly above 3400. Titanium,CF and Aluminium everywhere. Those 200g was NOT worth it in my oppinion. I think the most important thing is to keep the unsprung mass weight down. Normaly the rotating mass also but with those motors I dont see any problems to get it moving.(The drawback maybe the counter rotating mass. ) The guy that bought it swapped the Alu chassie for an CF one and has shaved another 100g off.
And this is real fact without any fantasy numbers.

I would start with
front 1.4 40wt and
rear 1.2 30wt
Also set the rebound to around 25% that will be a good place to start.

Also I do have khz alum shock towers on my car. I'm sure they weigh more than the stock cf towers.

Thanks for the help Frank. I'll give it a shot.

I agree, my tekno mbx6 is a shopping trolley with food compared to my mbx6 Eco. Especially with 6500 maxamps lipo for 15 minute finals. But it's solid and I dont feel the weight especially with a 2250kv hobbywing motor.
That said truggy is a beast but 2000kv with 6500mah will only get me 19 minutes in a final. I feel the weight draws more battery power.
Either way. Some one is going to get rich by designing a battery pack which can just slot in like those old nokia phones and a cover like the hyper 8.5 fuel tank draw string.

For those that have driven one, what are your impressions? How does it corner? How does it handle the bumps and big jumps?

You guys are getting way too hung up on this "weight" issue. I wouldn't care if weighed 9lbs+ as long as it handles good, fits my driving style and I can win races with it.

Well saidj. A caster e buggy driver has been in every a finals trashing all of us with brand new buggy

Ready for battle
What a great body>>>