It appears the new +8mm AE chassis is using the original plastic not the 4.1 material. My guess is with the added length it(newer plastic) had too much flex or wasn't reliable enough. Can't wait to test it out!

Ballcups (RPM, Losi, AE) all work great. No matter what you use they need to be replaced every couple months. I like the oring thing Cherry, gonna try it out.

Manual says 2 in the fronts & 2 in the rears..


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA19&P=7

The original plastic chassis was molded in the US, I bet it was easier to retool this mold and have it done here than overseas. I made one out of the new .1 plastic, will be trying it out this weekend, looking to get a little more bite. I know that they originally used the old plastic to make the +8 because that is all they had at AE.

I believe at WC it is preferred to have 3 in the front and 2 in the rear, thats just what i THINK, im not exactly sure though, youd have to ask someone that works there to be sure

Interesting the new chassis is the old plastic. I have one or will soon still out of town made with the new plastic. I am hoping it will give me more traction on the outdoor loose tracks. The 8mm is so small I doubt the plastic change is due to flex but you never know.

RPM are very tight & very strong , they do seem to pop off a bit easier though .

The Losi is also very strong and perform great .

The Ae ball cup can bend or break a lot easier than the above , reason I am experimenting....

I've had good expirience with the RPM ball cups...

pop off easier, compared to the Losi I assume. I don't need a ball cup that's any tighter than the RPM ones, I broke a glued steering rack last week and the ball cups stayed on. I do wish RPM made the white cups in a long shank though. On the steering links they don't thread in far enough IMO. RPM cups are about an 1/8 inch short than the AE, which is enough to be an issue.

Hello, i was told this would be the best place to ask this question. Does anyone know of any company that makes titanium cvd's for the rc10t4.1. I found a set gpm racing makes but it said b4. im aware most t4/b4 parts are interchangeable but I am seeking info from the more knowledgeable crowd (you guys) thanks.

Just orderd the hex conversion for the b4.1=] not bad price and should be much easier for me also....

also going to wire the lrp with black wire and get some losi ball cups

the 8mm chassis has been holding well, medium ca with aluminum braces and the botem is mica with contact cement but you wouldn't even know the mica is there.. ILL post pics!

Just ordered a Team B4.1 kit having run a RTR for a couple of months and sold on the platform.
I'm almost sure its been asked before but I would like your opinions on what is a good 17.5 motor/ESC combo to use in this?
I am not looking to spend more than $150 total whether its a package deal or bought separately.
I am also looking for a motor that does NOT heat up quickly so I can enjoy this car without worry about run times or cooking the motor.
Also, since I am new to this hobby, what makes a car NOT in stock class anymore? Is it just the motor or other upgrades to a certain chassis?
Any help here is appreciated.

Rick

tita, not needed IMO, AE CVA's are fine and work well..

I think he wants to know if the CVA's are interchangeable, doesn't he? I don't have a clue whether they are or not. Any know?

Bones are different length. Axle ends are the same.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-js5.html

should work really well hobbypartz is a great place and those brand esc;s are high quality...ive used a bunch and own a few=]

track rules are all different so i would check with your track that esc moter is a stock setup tho as far as an official class, no timing or boost