Good morning guys,

Just sitting here reading through all the pinned unpinned posts and thinking about doing it.

A few questions of what is actually the goal here.

1) is the benefit having equal slip front to back making it more tunable with lighter slipper settings?

2) Or is it balancing the bias the front rear slip that has been scewed by the clutch basket?


If 2 is the goal can the clutch basket be put behind the spur providing more grip in the slipper to the front drive?

The clutch basket builds in a bias with the extra friction surface at the one side.

So right now the front slips first and gives a surge to the rear causing the wash that we battle with this truck coming out of a turn.

Putting the basket behind the spur would force the slip to the rear and allow the truck to pull itself out of the corner.


My truck is at the track in a pit room so I cannot even see if its possible today.

Just thinking out loud here. What are your thoughts?

Mine's pinned and I don't have a single noise I did not have previously.

Correction. While running fast (more than 2/3 of the throttle) it is even quieter.

makes sense on #2 seems like it should work and at least worth a try!

I've noticed a severe increase and I don't run the basket.

Not sure you'd have enough motor shaft length to flip the basket over. My pinion is already pretty far out on the shaft.

I hear ya, mines sounding rough too. I'm going to look into it a little more today. Mines making a nasty sound pinned and un-pinned now....

when you run a saddle setup. you run without the original batteryholder.

so in that case I can understand the need for an optional center brace

To keep the belt tunnel straight when you yard dart it trying to quad the triple and come up a little short...

Oops my bad, wrong phrasing.

I meant a dramatic increase in performance


As I stated previously, I feel like my gearboxes are even quieter than before O.o

@MantisWorx: What Craig said, and to keep the chassis stiff when using saddles, as you remove the force the stickpack/battery holder does.

i have saddles and have beat the crap out of here lately and have had no belt failures every since i retightened the chassis screws. before that it would twist off every other pack. just wondering if it is really needed......

My belt tunnel was so bent that the joints where it touches the transmission protectors were open gaps where even sticks could get in.


Hm... Now that you say it... It's possible that your saddlepack mounting system stiffens the chassis so it doesn't twist.

I have my system in the works (can't buy yours... due to a series of unfortunate events I have to cancel all my planned upgrades for at least three months now), but I doubt it'll stiffen anything. It's more of a holder.

The center brace helps stop the chassis from flexing under hard braking and landings. I can run my belt tension a lot looser now and it does not come off or skip. Take your outer belt cover off and litely push the shock towers together, you will be shocked of how little it takes to make the belt go slack.

It also helps under hard acceleration, where the belt 'pulls' the front end towards the rear end, causing belt skipping and belt tunnel bending.

Now that I think about it a little, I think you are more right than I am. I had to totally dial the brakes down so the belt wouldn't slip. Hmmmnnnnn....

Yes i did as well Really good point this will be my next mod..

Same discussion I had with a AE engineer. You see it is on their trucks now.