The cam motor mount is also a must have item. WAY worth the $50 or so. IMO

I was damn near BEGGING Associated to release a cam style motor mount when I first built my B44. I have the motor mount and the V2 shock bodies. Still running the original B44 chassis until I run out of bodies/trays, or the 44 bodies are no longer available.

I'll consider myself lucky. This car came with both of those parts

Anybody using aluminum servo horns and what type

I built my B44.1 a few days ago and yesterday i hit the track with my new car. Everything was build likje the manual.
After 4 runs my rear gears in diff box cracked. After rebuild, I shimed it without any gaps in int. At the 8th run the same happened with the front gears.
After opening the front gear box at home, I found much play between the both gears.

Im running an LRP X12 6.5t 4dot timing in my B44.1. The slipper is build like manual.

What am i doing wrong with the gears, or are there any hints ?

That is crazy. I build mine just like the manual says and shim them the same. I run my diffs into the ground, never maintain them like I should, run the car hard and have never had an issue. I have destroyed a million other parts but not diffs. I know that doesn't help other than maybe you got a lemon.

Im not the only one in germany who have to handle that problem. Some race friends of mine, have the same problem :-(

I've already asked for steel gears to solve this problem and I've been told it isn't a problem. Whether it is or isn't, steel gears would be a nice option (I haven't experienced this myself, but I've talked to several people who have).

My gear boxes are shimmed like crazy. I got the mesh as close to perfect as I could and there is zero side to side play.

Shimmed correctly with the slipper not locked down this should not be a problem. The only time I had issues was on very high grip track with a tight slipper and agressive throttle finger.

I might be mistaken but I do believe the original B44 manual specified 4 shims on the short outdrive with 3 on the long. The new manual shows 4 and 2.

Yes you are right Tom. 44.1 manual shows 4/2.
Tonight i'll try to shim it, like there no sideplay and no gap between the gears.
I think it is also a problem of my slipper setting. It is very hard closed. The front gears broke when I came down on Carpet and tried to push forward with agressive punsh.

I know, it could be a silly question but I'd like to do:

When AE will get out whit a brand new 2WD and 4WD off road cars?

little off topic....

Anyone running a LRP TC Spec V2? My fan stopped working, the ESC didn't didn't overheat, but it was hot enough for the fan to engage. Does anyone know of a heavier duty fan that will work worth this ESC?

Thanks.

So 4/2 is that the final answer? My 44 manual shows 6.. wierdeddddd...lol..

Yeah manual has some odd info. I was going over all my CVDs last night and I noticed for the gear boxes it reads '4-40 set screw' but the picture is of the pin, and the axle CVDs show the same pin but have it labeled correctly.

As far as the shims, your goal is to have a smooth mesh with as little side to side play as possible. Mine are weird. I think my front has 7-3 and my back has 8-2. I took everything apart last night and there is zero wear on the gears after an hour total of run time.

i'm lucky enough to have an AE pro at my track and he warned me about that problem. he told me to set the slipper hard enough to consistently make the biggest jump on the track and no tighter. there is just a lot of torque and resistance going through the drive train of a 4wd buggy not just the ae one. I didn't strip out a gear until i over tightened the slipper. just loosen up on it a little bit. they make slipper adjustments easy to do. I forget what size hex head, but you just stick it between the top deck into the hole on the blue collar and turn the wheels to adjust it tighter or looser. Literally takes a few seconds.